Can anyone tell me what the name of this part is? I've looked everywhere possible but can't find a name for it anywhere.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...g?t=1262911248

 

The part that has evidence of tire rubbing? That is commonly referred to as the "trailing arm".

 

Yup thats it! Thanks! Do you know if the bushing is made out of rubber or something? It doesn't feel like metal.

 

its not metal.. that bushing in there was rubber... you might be able to go with a poly insert for it, instead of having to buy a whole new arm..

 

How much does the poly insert normally run? If I do have to buy a whole new arm then can I just take my wheel hub off the current one and connect it to the new one?

 

There are lots of bushing options, none of them too expensive. For the trailing arm most people recommend rubber bushings, not polyurethane. An OEM bushing is only $20 or so, if I remember correctly (maybe a little more). The arm itself is probably relatively pricey.

Energy suspension makes poly bushings for the trailing arm. You can also get Hardrace standard or pillow-ball bushings, but most people I've heard seem to advocate OEM in that spot.

 

OEM (or aftermarket rubber, some of which is stiffer than the stock rubber) is advocated over polyurethane because that bushing requires compliance along multiple axes (more than 1 axis), which is not something that polyurethane (supposedly) handles very well. (I'm no materials science engineer, just echoing what I've read.)

However, many people have sworn that poly there worked fine in their street cars. Many racers have found an otherwise incurable snap oversteer fixed when going back to rubber there. YMMV. Research a bit before taking the plunge and ordering polyurethane.

 

Well an OEM bushing it is then. Now is this TI article good for putting the new one in?

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1197

From what it looks like I don't have to take it entirely off and just wanted to know if this is true.

 

Correct. Complete removal is not necessary, if you have that tool.

Otherwise, you'll end up removing the entire trailing arm to take to a shop to have them press it in.

And don't forget to clock the bushing to your ride height, which that linked article doesn't show (unless the car is at stock height, but they rarely are these days). Doing so extends the life of the bushing, and can only be done by removing and re-installing it.

 

Alright, I might of found a complete trailing arm with the bushing on it. I'll just see what will happen tomorow. Thanks for the information though everyone, it's really really helpful to me.