can someone give me a walk through on a front brake pad install on a 2000 gsr, i searched and found nothing. also, how long will the brakes last after the wear indicator has started?
thanks

 

hi, i would like to recommend a mechanics manual on your car for one thing and that will save you in the long run. there's also some online too.

the brake wear indicator is obviously there for safety reasons so the logical answer is 0 miles after it. butttt ppl take it pass it and ive seen bare metal plates as their brakes. i say as long as there's reasonable pad to stop you it should be ok, its your state of mind haha.

brake install is quite simple, off the top of my head:
-relieve the brake pressure in the master cylinder
-take off bottom bolt holding on caliper, flip the caliper up and tie it with something to hold it up
-you should be able to take the pads off now
-use a C clamp or a piston tool for the rear to push the pistons back far enough to slide on the new (wider) pads.
-use the anti squeal thing on any part of the pad that comes in contact with metal
-flip the calipers back on the pads
-bolt the calipers back up and ur done

pretty much the same for the front and rear brakes

 

How do you relieve pressure from the master? Never heard of that before...

Pretty well explained, only you really should go get your rotors resurfaced whenever you do a brake job, but I've done a pad stab before and not had any problems.

 

pop off the master cylinder cap.

yeah it makes sense to resurface to its flush to the new pad surface, doesn't hurt but unless ur super F1 driver ill just spray brake clean and let it go

 

"relieve the brake pressure in the master cylinder" I don't know what that was about, but there's a bleed screw that you can loosen to release the fluid so you can push the piston back.

it's super easy to replace the brake pads, but yea, you should get the rotors resurface or get new ones if they're bad.

 

thanks for the replies, im a poor college student so i am trying to spend as little amount of money as possible so i guess ill just spray the brake stuff on there, acura wanted like 150 bucks and i want oem pads on there so i figured id do it myself

 

do it i just put some rears on today, depending on how loose all your hardware is it could take 30 minutes or 3 hours. Its really easy though. I think the integra FAQ has a write up for you. Goodluck

 

pad slap should not take longer then 30 minute on an integra. if its your fronts, i would recommend resurfacing since it might vibrate later on but its your choice...you could get away with no problems but yea.

relieving master cylinder? just take some fluid out of the master, and then push the piston back in...so the fluid doesn't overfull...

 

You can check out the article on TI if you want pictures and whatnot. Here's the link. The rear piston is different. You have to screw the rear in (ie. with the end of a crowbar) vs. pushing the fronts in with a C-clamp.

I'd recommend resurfacing the rotors as well. In some cases, resurfacing may cost as much as getting new blanks from your local auto store. Check out some of the site sponsors and ask for pricing on new pads and rotors.

I am currently using the Axxis Ultimates. Braking is definitely better than OEM, but it does give off a lot more brake dust contrary to what I read before. I believe you should be able to find it for $51 for the fronts and $36 for the rears, if not cheaper.

I recommend avoiding any cross-drilled rotors. The only slotted rotors I'd get are the ones that are forged "swooshes"; not the cut slots, as those tend to scrape the pads more. Blank rotors should roughly cost $30 and $21 for the front and rear respectively.

Oh yeah, if you do decide to do both the front and rear brakes, I'd recommend doing them at separate times. This way, if you screw up the fronts, at least you'll have the rears working in case of an emergency. I'd replace the rears after the bedding period and after I do a few quick stops to ensure it's working properly. Good luck (not that you'll need it)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yangtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"relieve the brake pressure in the master cylinder" I don't know what that was about, but there's a bleed screw that you can loosen to release the fluid so you can push the piston back.

it's super easy to replace the brake pads, but yea, you should get the rotors resurface or get new ones if they're bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do not open the brake bleeder to compress the piston on the front calipers. I typically compress the caliper by hand when it is still mounted.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dogginator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do not open the brake bleeder to compress the piston on the front calipers. I typically compress the caliper by hand when it is still mounted.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Indeed, you can introduce air into the system, giving you a mushy pedal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoseRPunKx182 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pop off the master cylinder cap. </TD></TR></TABLE>You shouldn't have to, the system is closed and shouldn't have excess fluid enough to overflow the master.

 

Everyone has there own way of doing things, I like to open the bleeder so that i dont push the dirty fluids back up the system. Have been using it on customer cars all these years.

 

Omg 150??


I just replaced my pads and rotors

pads for front and back ran me $70,

brake fluid bottle $5.63

brake fluid tube $4

so for $80 do it yourself

Theres a good guide on team-integra.net to bleed the brakes, and it gives u the proper bleeding order, push the front piston back in with your hand after u loosen the bleeder bolt 10mm, also push the back one in with a wrench by turning it clock wise or get the piston tool use a 1/2" socket wrench and turn it the same as you would the wrench

 

replaced my front and back pads today. it took like an hour, i just opened the cap on the master cylinder and pushed the pistons back with a c clamp and used that turn tool thing for the back. didn't use the break squeal stuff so hope that doesn't do anything. the breaks are working good, although the back ones are making a low pitch grinding noise which my friend said was normal with new breaks. cheaped out and bought some advanced auto pads(semi-metallic) so total cost was like 45 dollars...
thanks

 

should've resurface your rotors, too. its usually about $10-$15 per rotor and well worth it