block guard ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSTEG96 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">buy a spare block for when str ***** your stock one up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>How is this?
I put in a block guard first, Had it welded to the block, then did all my machine work afterwords
That way, if it was warped from the installation, or anything of that matter. It was machined true and ready to roll.
You cant just tap that **** in there and roll if you want it to be reliable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chadwick16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">who would i go to get that done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you rebuilding the engine?
I rebuilt mine so i did it in that fasion.
You can install it yourself.
Diasassemble the engine, lay the block guard in the way the direction say for it to face up, and what side, and get a 2 x 4 block the length of the engine and tap it down in there flush.
Then take a hammer and a small punch and evenly drive it 1/4" below the surface.
I opted to have it welded in in 8 places arround the deck for extra security, I paid 20 bucks for that to be done at a local fabrication shop.
Then I sent it off to be machined. I had the engine decked, (head surface) completely flat, and they said my cylinder was slightly out of round, so i had them bore it .010 over to correct the out of round.
I spent arround 340 for the Engine Machining, Block guard itself, and the welding in.
I did other things on my rebuild, but for your specific question, if you can take the engine out youself, and take it apart, you can do this for cheap.
Are you rebuilding the engine?
I rebuilt mine so i did it in that fasion.
You can install it yourself.
Diasassemble the engine, lay the block guard in the way the direction say for it to face up, and what side, and get a 2 x 4 block the length of the engine and tap it down in there flush.
Then take a hammer and a small punch and evenly drive it 1/4" below the surface.
I opted to have it welded in in 8 places arround the deck for extra security, I paid 20 bucks for that to be done at a local fabrication shop.
Then I sent it off to be machined. I had the engine decked, (head surface) completely flat, and they said my cylinder was slightly out of round, so i had them bore it .010 over to correct the out of round.
I spent arround 340 for the Engine Machining, Block guard itself, and the welding in.
I did other things on my rebuild, but for your specific question, if you can take the engine out youself, and take it apart, you can do this for cheap.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecluder97 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you rebuilding the engine?
I rebuilt mine so i did it in that fasion.
You can install it yourself.
Diasassemble the engine, lay the block guard in the way the direction say for it to face up, and what side, and get a 2 x 4 block the length of the engine and tap it down in there flush.
Then take a hammer and a small punch and evenly drive it 1/4" below the surface.
I opted to have it welded in in 8 places arround the deck for extra security, I paid 20 bucks for that to be done at a local fabrication shop.
Then I sent it off to be machined. I had the engine decked, (head surface) completely flat, and they said my cylinder was slightly out of round, so i had them bore it .010 over to correct the out of round.
I spent arround 340 for the Engine Machining, Block guard itself, and the welding in.
I did other things on my rebuild, but for your specific question, if you can take the engine out youself, and take it apart, you can do this for cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
u spent 350 bucks on a block guard?!?!!?!?! SLEEVES PEOPLE!!!! u are getting close to the price of freaking sleeves!! and sleeves are so much more relliable
I rebuilt mine so i did it in that fasion.
You can install it yourself.
Diasassemble the engine, lay the block guard in the way the direction say for it to face up, and what side, and get a 2 x 4 block the length of the engine and tap it down in there flush.
Then take a hammer and a small punch and evenly drive it 1/4" below the surface.
I opted to have it welded in in 8 places arround the deck for extra security, I paid 20 bucks for that to be done at a local fabrication shop.
Then I sent it off to be machined. I had the engine decked, (head surface) completely flat, and they said my cylinder was slightly out of round, so i had them bore it .010 over to correct the out of round.
I spent arround 340 for the Engine Machining, Block guard itself, and the welding in.
I did other things on my rebuild, but for your specific question, if you can take the engine out youself, and take it apart, you can do this for cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
u spent 350 bucks on a block guard?!?!!?!?! SLEEVES PEOPLE!!!! u are getting close to the price of freaking sleeves!! and sleeves are so much more relliable
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Mr.Hankey
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Oct 13, 2006 09:17 AM



