I've taken my coilovers fully apart to properly set them as when I got them the perch heights were all random, I've looked at a few threads and found this chart posted. so by logic I want to set the spring perch 100mm down from the top of the shock body for my desired "drop". some ppl say these N+ can put you very low but when I had them on the car out of the box at max low may car was a little lower then stock .

rear
120mm=1in
115mm=1 1/2
110mm=2in
105mm=2 1/2
100mm=3in

Front
Distance Drop
10mm=3in
15mm=2 1/2
20mm=2in
25mm=1 1/2
30mm=1in

Front spring length=200mm
Rear spring length=150mm
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the thing is that is for an RSX BC set up the design is different.



point bring I'd like in the area of 3'' drop but I see no chart for that on the model I'm using.



can someone pleae explain how to assemble these things I know how they go back together just not where to set the perch.



All apart fronts are stripped too



This is them out of the box installed on the lowest I could get them to go, this has to be a joke look at the wheel gap.





here's the thread i'm using HERE IT IS DIY COILOVER INSTALL...56K wtf is that? - Club RSX Message Board

 

The spring perch sets the preload on the spring. To start off, turn the spring perch until it begins to compress the spring. It should be slightly difficult to turn the springs by hand at this point. Now turn the locking perch until it sits under the spring perch.

To set your ride height, you need to thread the shock body into the bottom fork mount. Turning it all the way until the shock body bottoms out within the threaded mount is the lowest setting for the coilover. Once you have the desired ride height, lock the single height collar against the mounting fork.

 

Ahh ok thanks man that write up had me confused AF, I know its for a different car but the measurements where what I was focusing on. Ok I'll get to re-assembling them that makes sense.

 

Dont think about the measurements.

Just adjust the perch so theres no free play between the spring and top mount. Then adjust the length of the shock body. Longer shock = Higher ride height, Shorter shock = Lower ride height.

 

Set preload after driving to determine how much preload you think you need. For comfort, dont add too much preload. For daily driving, you shouldn't need to adjust this too much beyond removing the slack of the spring to eliminate noise and binding.

 

3" drop on N+! No longer a track car?

You probably kept turning the springs up as you turned the shock body down the last time you tried this.

To go into further detail on what was explained before:

Start with the front set.

-Assemble the springs and top hat portion.
-Turn the two UPPER jam collars so that they barely compress the spring. Like...touch the spring and maybe go one more turn.
-lock the two upper jam collars.

-Thread on the LOWER (single) jam collar to a random location.
-Thread on the lower body-shaped collar (the part that mounts directly to the chassis/shock fork).
-lock the lower jam collar.
-measure the space between the upper and lower jam collars. Use that measurement to assemble the other side so you start out even.

Repeat those steps for the rear set.

Put it all on the car and adjust height by loosening the LOWER jam collar and turning the whole shock body assy. In other words....Thread the whole shock into/out of the lower body to adjust height.

You do not have to take them apart to do this.

Leave the UPPER collars locked. Leave the shock fully bolted into the car. The body will turn. Use the spanner wrench on the upper collar to make the whole body turn. The upper collar itself should not turn. Think of the two upper collars as jam nuts. Think of the shock body as a stud.

If you've turned a stud in with 2 jam nuts...the concept is easy. The jam nuts themselves shouldn't turn. The whole stud should turn. Feel me?

Never move the upper collars. Never adjust the suspension with the upper collars. Leave them locked.

 

3'' isn't that much I think? I have my 3'' down pipe right beside me, either way I'm just using that as a reference doesn't mean I'll stick with 3''. Like I said last time I had a super fucked up height adjustment, i was mostly likely adjusting from the perch. Ya that's how I figured they'd go back together, i'll probs start reassembling them tonight. i did it because it was all fucked up and one top hat bolt(the one that holds it down) was loose. Thanks to both of you for the info.