So my car just keeps acting like a *****.

Driving home I noticed my cluster lights were dim. Radio ended up shutting off. I knew the car was running off the battery (I figured at least). While driving, radio comes back on and lights get brighter. I get home and lights get dim again and radio shuts off. Although I really dislike doing this, I removed positive terminal and car shuts off. I was hoping a ground was loose since previous owner bought a new high, stronger alternator (for radio and system).

So, does this mean alternator is for sure bad?

 

it's possible the reg inside the Alt is bad. I had one go bad and overcharge, which would randomly kick my stereo off. Once I unhooked the battery and put it back on, it started charging at like 28v.

Take it off and have it checked out.

 

Well damn. I haven't checked an alternator at autozone. Do I have to remove it to have it tested?

 

I'm actually not sure, I've never had to have it done. I don't think you have to

 

Okay, I'm taking it to advance tomorrow morning. I'm sure they know the voltage at idle and whatnot there.

Question, are alternators different with plugs? I have a green round plug on mine. Can I interchange it with d series? Civic? Or anything else?

 

Just checked it out with my multimeter. Showed 12.60 while car was running. I have heard 12 and above is good. Others say 13 and 14.

Any other tests i should run? I like troubleshooting before dishing out money on parts.

 

Actually just tested it after driving it for a few and it now reads 5.xx

I now know, alternator is bad

 

Does anyone know if I can interchange any alternator for mine? My car is obd0 (I have the green circular plug). Any differences?

 

Actually found my answer. Apparently obd0 and obd1 are plug and play.

My next question. I'm getting an alternator from the junkyard, I have a buddy that works there. My question is, is there anyway you can tell if an alternator is good by looking at it?

 

No, only way would be to have it tested before hand, but then again, after it is run and gets hot could change the voltage output like yours did.

 

disconnecting batt while car is running can make bad juju and fry stuff, dont do it.
get the manual and follow the procedure:

http://www.spooledupracing.com/downl...dfbd31fb819d41

see page 23-100. my alternator should be going **** up soon after 160k miles.
just for fun i'll try replacing the brushes and see what happens.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...061&cc=1000382

 

Okay so I took my alternator to autozone, it passed. But my alternator gave me a different voltage when it was hot. Could this be why it passed while it was cold?

A buddy let me borrow an alternator, told me it was good but duratest says different haha. How reliable are those tests? Should I still install my buddies and see what happens or no?

I haven't bought a new one because I'm a bit tight on cash. Just trying to see what I can work with first.

 

Reinstalled my alternator after cleaning it and I'm sure it's bad. Once it warms up, the voltage gets lower. I have seen brush kits and regulator kits. Seem pretty straightforward. However, this alternator is a high output from alterstart. Should I buy a rebuild kit or just send it in for warranty? Thing is, I'm sure they will take forever to receive it, check it out and send it back.

Any inputs?

 

i'm seeing some on car-part for $20-$35, less than i paid for the brush assembly lol.
toss one in while you resolve your warranty then you can rebuild it and/or sell on fleabay.

http://www.car-part.com/