I have a GSR motor type r pistons s2 adjustable cam gears Blox intake manifold i/h/e light weight flywheel street proformance clutch.
I am trying to set up an all motor daily driver that has some power. I have a p28 ecu with hondata s300 v1 ready to install too. Guys I need your help, I'm trying to figure out the best way to go from here. Do I just install the ecu get it tuned and leave it? Will that be enough to give me say 220hp? Or do I look into upgrading the head? Or cams and what kind. If you guys can help point me in the right direction that would be great.

 

you WON'T get 220 WHP with that set up. head package and you'll be closer cover ALL bolt on first. then get it tuned/leave it

 

even with better cams, 220hp is not attainable with whats listed..

 

Ya dude you need a lot more than what you have in/on it now. Headwork is a must +valvetrain in addition to what you have and good parts not cheap anything. Proven products that compliment each other. Get it all portmatched, too.
Search all motor section and educate yourself there's a bunch of dicks on here that like to flame, so beware and good luck

 

Gentleman thank you for the info. Sounds like I have a ways to go, do you guys or anyone else think I should sell my p28/hondata? And upgrade the head/ valve train. I was thinking springs and valves....input?

 

NO KEEP IT(hondata s300) it will be a great tool down the road. yes if you decide to get aftermarket cams springs+retainers is a must flat valves/thiner HG is debatable...if you have the money get the head milled .015 or more. But then you may have to take into account/know the P2V/V2V clearances with the set of cams you chose.

 

I don't think I want to go as far as getting the head milled. Are springs and retainers a must when upgrading cams? Where should I look to get some education on these ideas

 

Keep the S300. Get a wideband sensor and gauge, and you can street-tune the S300 yourself as you add modifications. It won't make as much power as a professional tune but it will keep your engine safe and be better than the stock tune. When you're done and/or ready for a professional tune, you can get one.

Whether you need springs and retainers depends on the cams. For ITR cams some get away with stock GSR springs, although even for those I'd recommend some sort of spring upgrade. Anything larger and you pretty much need better springs. The retainers are slightly less necessary. Stock retainers can handle some aftermarket springs, but very stiff springs with very high seat pressures will need upgraded retainers. You also need to upgrade the retainers if you plan on revving high. Stock retainers will get you a little above redline but may not be safe at 9k.

Supertech makes springs and retainers that are good and cheap. They are popular among engine builders. You can also swap out the retainers for early RSX-S retainers. You can find some of this information by searching, particularly in the all motor forum. But if you have specific questions, just ask! That's what the forum is for .

I also don't recommend getting the head milled. If you want to change compression, do it right -- by changing the pistons.

 

Let's talk about this wideband gauge I actually got one with my ecu. I'm mot a gear head like most on here. I know enough and can read, haha. With adjustable gears and that hondata should i get some sort of street tune professional that is. Or should I run like a stock type r base map? How would I go about bing it myself sounds a bit risky....I hear I can wave it lean and blow the motor and vise versa...let me in on the amazing info. Thanks guys

 

Itr cams vs. S2 tuner cams?? Big difference in power durability or anything else. Also with tuner cams would I need springs and retainers before I upgraded cams? This over all build will be quite slow two big reasons 1) I like good quality parts. 2) good quality parts cost good money.
Again any info is helpful to me. I'm a sponge ready to soak it up.

 

Tuner 2's will get you to you'r goal. But you'll NEED springs and i'd do retainers to be safe as the power drop off with those is close to 8.6K to 8.8K (have seen dyno sheets). the tuner 1 cams are basicly JDM ITR cams with a somewhat bigger VTEC lobe. you'll need a good chip or tune it you'r self(why i said keep that s300).

here http://store.skunk2.com/engine-tunin...afts-1232.html


i have them but i also have increased comp is your's stock ? if so i'd say tuner 1's would yeild better results

i'll agree with gagnar on there are better ways to increase comp but if you don't feel safe pulling you'r entire engine it's the next best thing imo but you can't go back on it so to say. will also throw you'r timing marks off even with .015 it did for me.

 

All about being safe for me. This is and will be my daily driver. Well yes I have usdm type r pistons. Racing bearings ( which I'm not even sure deals with compression). So I'm thinking spring and retainers is next on the list....how about this self tuning concept....

 

Sorry forgot about the pistons....Tuner 2's they will put you AT or ABOVE you'r goal with a good chip/tune but springs+retainers next you're looking at 900-1k$ for the 3 things. as for DIY street tune check in the engine managemeant section. or someone on here can explain it i don't know enough about that to give real advice.

 

If possible, buy another head and build it separate. Send it out for v/j, resurface, etc. When you get the head all together, remove original, install head studs, put on new head. Now you have an original (spare) head to sell or keep.
Edit: a number of people run stock valves. If you don't get aftermarket valves, have the stock ones backcut for more airflow @ low lift. All aftermarket valves I've seen are already backcut, but this saves a lot. And, yes many people run supertech valvetrain. Quality+affordability

 

Just remember the key to building HP is not just going out and buying a bunch stuff and throwing it togather. I'm not saying that's what your doing honestly its not a bad setup at all just keep in mind all parts must work together to achieve the most power from any engine combination. The bottom end is very important as we know but your head is where you will unlock the most hp. Just make sure the cams you decide to run will work well with your intake mani,exhaust etc there is no point in buying a great flowing intake mani and exhaust if the head can't support the flow numbers as well take your time and chooseyour parts wisely and if you want 220hp its going to cost ya.. SPEED COST MONEY HOW FAST DO YOU WANNA GO?

 

some good info here,

 

I must applaud you all of this info. 220 was just a number at the time, of course I would like to get there but if its gonna cost a few thousand I can deal with 200. :-)

S2bump if I had the extra money/time/workspace that would be ideal I would agree.

B_swapped thanks for all this info

98dc thanks I agree with you. I figure I got my set up decent on my own but past this I don't know to much. That's why I am here on this forum, you guys have been great on here. I really am thankful. As much as I'd like to keep this thread going with your good info. I think I am going to stop for now. I am going to save up for springs, retainers, and s2 tuner cams. I will keep my hondata just sad it is of almost no use to me for awhile.
Edit: not necessarily s2 tuner cams but cams that will be beneficial to my set up.

 

I hit 201whp and 149tq, check out my build. Defs much to improve on to hit 220whp for me.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/my-b18c1-n-build-2996571/

 

AFR tuning is not difficult but it requires some tinkering. What you would do is load either a GSR or ITR basemap, force your car in "closed loop" (you can do that in the Hondata settings), and monitor your AFR as you drive around. You can modify the fuel maps directly in the S300 so that you get the AFRs you want at every point in the fuel map. I believe the S300 has realtime updating so changes in the map will have immediate effects. It's perfectly safe as long as the AFRs stay in safe limits while you're tuning. Starting with a good-guess basemap and taking a conservative approach won't put your car in danger, especially with no forced induction.

As far as some of your other questions: those adjustable cam gears aren't doing anything for you unless you have aftermarket cams. Don't even bother with them on GSR or ITR cams.

For cams, there are a lot of factors to consider but you can simplify it to: what kind of compression do you have and what kind of idle do you want. Speaking only about Skunk2 cams, stage 1 will be best for a stock compression (10-10.5:1) engine with a stock idle. Stage 2 will be best for an engine with higher compression (e.g. 11.5:1) but still a stock idle and also low valve train wear. The pro series have more aggressive primaries and favor higher compression, but may require a little more idle speed and will have more valve train wear because they are always on a more aggressive lobe.

 

I will look over this post later and examine it ask some questions thanks. I know right off top how do I find compression? I know those pistons said they are 11:1

 

It's best to have your engine builder measure compression ratio. But you can use this calculator to make a guess.

http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html

I missed the ITR pistons in your first post, but they should give you enough compression to run stage 2 cams.

 

Keep in mind gsr p72 head raises c/r slightly, too vs pr3 because its a closed chamber head(quench pads)reduce the cc's

 

That is a set up I would like. Putting all of that together with a tune gave you 201whp. How much actual horsepower?