93 hatch widest wheel 15/16/or 17
Sorry for the noob question. I have been searching for hours. Looked in the big faq thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faqs-frequently-asked-tech-questions-1998336/
I would like to know the widest wheel that I can put on a 1993 hatch 15,16,17 under the stock fenders.
I know on my FD3S if I went with coilovers & 18 inch rims I could put wider rims on the front because the coilover spring was smaller in diameter than the factory one and the 18 inch rim was required to clear the shock.
With my family ( two kids in the back seat 180lb total for the both of them ) the car rubs/scraps in the back when I hit a bump. I don't know if I need smaller tires/different offset rims/different size rims/ride height???
car has
rota slipstreams with 205/50/15 tires
Tokiko Blue Suspension Gas Struts
Eibach ProKit Spring System
Skunk2 Camber Kit
Blox Lower Control Arms & Lower Rear Strut Bar
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faqs-frequently-asked-tech-questions-1998336/
I would like to know the widest wheel that I can put on a 1993 hatch 15,16,17 under the stock fenders.
I know on my FD3S if I went with coilovers & 18 inch rims I could put wider rims on the front because the coilover spring was smaller in diameter than the factory one and the 18 inch rim was required to clear the shock.
With my family ( two kids in the back seat 180lb total for the both of them ) the car rubs/scraps in the back when I hit a bump. I don't know if I need smaller tires/different offset rims/different size rims/ride height???
car has
rota slipstreams with 205/50/15 tires
Tokiko Blue Suspension Gas Struts
Eibach ProKit Spring System
Skunk2 Camber Kit
Blox Lower Control Arms & Lower Rear Strut Bar
Do you know where the tires are rubbing (outer quarter panel, inner fenderwell, or upper portion of the arch)?
As for the "big FAQ thread", you linked to the one in the 92-00 Civic forum... but we have one here as well:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/wheel-tire-56/9658-forum-rules-faq-read-before-posting-1188922/
Reducing the tire size too much will cause issues of its own. Ideally, you'd like to utilize a tire size that is as close to the factory overall diameter for both safety reasons as well as ride quality wise.
As for the "big FAQ thread", you linked to the one in the 92-00 Civic forum... but we have one here as well:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/wheel-tire-56/9658-forum-rules-faq-read-before-posting-1188922/
Reducing the tire size too much will cause issues of its own. Ideally, you'd like to utilize a tire size that is as close to the factory overall diameter for both safety reasons as well as ride quality wise.
As for the "big FAQ thread", you linked to the one in the 92-00 Civic forum... but we have one here as well:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1188922
I looked through it and found this little bit of info.
For a CRX, del sol, del sol Si, or pre-'96 Civic, the following sizes are usually best:
15" - 195/50-15
16" - 205/40-16, 195/45-16
I did not see the part ( I might have just missed it though ) on what size rim/offset how low/if I can go wider if I use coil overs, etc...
I need to put the car on the rack and take a look.
Last edited by toyomatt84; Dec 23, 2012 at 05:28 AM.
Well, I can tell you now, that if you're rubbing with something like Rota Slipstreams on 205/50/15's... you're not going to be able to go much wider (if at all) under your stock sheetmetal. And, most of the time, Rota Slipstreams of that size are 15x6.5 or 15x7 with a +35 offset.
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Sounds more like you need stiffer springs for the rear. My 94 hatch is running 205/50/15's on stock fat five rim and I am almost tucking in the rear. I have never had problems with rubbing. What offset are you rims?
car empty

@ speedjunkie what is your back spacing & offset? Can you post picts up please.
My rotas are stamped with 1565 on the back. ( 15 inches x 6.5 inches ). According to this website
http://www.rotawheel.com/AVAILABILITY.htm 1565 = 40mm offset.
I measured the back spacing to be 135mm.

From looking at my pics with my car on the lift with 15 inch rotas I could go in 25mm to 30mm inward. If I went with a 17 inch rim it looks like I would even gain more space.
It might be hard to tell from this pict (right rear) but there is at least 25m more I could go in. If the rim was larger it would free up even more space.

If I use this calculator http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp and I want to keep the 15 by 6.5 inch rim and run 205/50/15 I should probably go with 50mm offset.
It looks like if I ran a 17 inch I could probably get away with 8 inches wide but I have to get the offset perfect.
Right rear with two passengers (250 lbs total). My finger will not fit between the tire and fender.

I guess I could just go stance and run max negative camber
My rotas are stamped with 1565 on the back. ( 15 inches x 6.5 inches ). According to this website
http://www.rotawheel.com/AVAILABILITY.htm 1565 = 40mm offset.
I measured the back spacing to be 135mm.
From looking at my pics with my car on the lift with 15 inch rotas I could go in 25mm to 30mm inward. If I went with a 17 inch rim it looks like I would even gain more space.
It might be hard to tell from this pict (right rear) but there is at least 25m more I could go in. If the rim was larger it would free up even more space.
If I use this calculator http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp and I want to keep the 15 by 6.5 inch rim and run 205/50/15 I should probably go with 50mm offset.
It looks like if I ran a 17 inch I could probably get away with 8 inches wide but I have to get the offset perfect.
Right rear with two passengers (250 lbs total). My finger will not fit between the tire and fender.
I guess I could just go stance and run max negative camber
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Running a 17" wheel will require you to have a much smaller sidewall height, coincidentally giving you a horrible ride quality.
If you stick with those wheels, get a rear camber kit and camber the rear in .5 to 1 degree of negative camber. That won't have huge adverse effects on the handling or tire wear, and you'll eliminate the rubbing issue in the back.
If you stick with those wheels, get a rear camber kit and camber the rear in .5 to 1 degree of negative camber. That won't have huge adverse effects on the handling or tire wear, and you'll eliminate the rubbing issue in the back.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,114
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From: Pensacola, FL and every Court House in Louisiana
My rim is a 15x6- 45ish offset. I did roll my fenders with a 1" thick pipe I use as a cheater bar. It was a very simple process. I will take pics in a few.
Post up your picts.
2006 Fit has a 16 by 6.5 with a 55mm offset. Will that work on a 1993 hatch with out rubbing? Since these are made for Honda I assume they would also be hubcentric. I think most of the aftermarket wheels for Hondas are not hubcentric.

Last edited by toyomatt84; Dec 26, 2012 at 03:15 PM.
The car had -1.5 and was rubbing. I dialed in -2.0 and now it does not rub. I had to go to wheels works twice. The first time they did it they set it at -0.2. hahaha
When I use this calculator with your wheel combo vs my combo your wheels stick out an extra 49m more than mine and my wheels rub with rear passengers using -1.5 camber. It is ok now running -2.0 camber in the rear.
http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

I wonder if my car is wider than a regular civic. I had the lowering/wheel specs above but my car also has the following:
Integra Spindle and Trailing arms all the way around.
Rear Integra GSR rotors
Rear Integra GSR calipers
Last edited by toyomatt84; Jan 6, 2013 at 07:21 PM.
Looks good to me. I don't why everybody here dislikes 17 on civics so much. From one of my pics above it shows if you go with 17 you get more clearance on the rear trailing arm. Seems like a plus to me
How is ride? Does it rub with four passengers?

How is ride? Does it rub with four passengers?
The ProKit gives too big a drop for the spring stiffness, IMO. The LS I just bought has the same kit, but it is on 1" undersized tires. I am 100% confident it would rub occassionally if I installed correct-sized tires.
You may be able to buy yourself a small amount of travel by very carefully selecting wheels and tires, but if I was in your position I'd be thinking about making some changes to the suspension.
You may be able to buy yourself a small amount of travel by very carefully selecting wheels and tires, but if I was in your position I'd be thinking about making some changes to the suspension.
Since it is already on the car and does not rub now ( I had to run -2.0 camber though ) what do you think of the Tokiko Blue Suspension Gas Struts &
Eibach ProKit Spring System? Garbage, good, really good.
I have been doing soooo many things to get this car to get it right. I have only owned it since dec 2012 and I have done timing belt, water pump, removed flaky alarm, replaced ignition switch, replaced main relay, in/outer tie rods that only touches the surface. Tons more time on diagnostics for other things.
I have a lot more things I still need to do. I am looking forward to your link
The car also has a paint color change that I am not happy about. It it is a few steps above macco but well below a factory paint. The only reason I bought was it is BAR legal for the GSR motor in it.
I would love to find a nice 92-95 hatch with great factory paint and BAR legal for a H22/GSR/TSX motor that has not modified with all kinds of crazy stuff.
I like siblue_gzer http://hondamarketplace.com/showthre...6#post48368964
I would buy his even though I don't like that body style that much just because his is so clean if only he would have put a GSR/H22 motor
Eibach ProKit Spring System? Garbage, good, really good.
I have been doing soooo many things to get this car to get it right. I have only owned it since dec 2012 and I have done timing belt, water pump, removed flaky alarm, replaced ignition switch, replaced main relay, in/outer tie rods that only touches the surface. Tons more time on diagnostics for other things.
I have a lot more things I still need to do. I am looking forward to your link

The car also has a paint color change that I am not happy about. It it is a few steps above macco but well below a factory paint. The only reason I bought was it is BAR legal for the GSR motor in it.
I would love to find a nice 92-95 hatch with great factory paint and BAR legal for a H22/GSR/TSX motor that has not modified with all kinds of crazy stuff.
I like siblue_gzer http://hondamarketplace.com/showthre...6#post48368964
I would buy his even though I don't like that body style that much just because his is so clean if only he would have put a GSR/H22 motor
Damn that is a CLEAN Civic...
As far as the Tokiko Blue + Eibach. I don't have personal experience with Tokiko but I think of the blues as a solid OEM replacement shock that is slightly stiffer than stock. Eibach makes springs as good as anybody, but like I said I think the ProKit is slightly too low for how stiff the springs are. My LS with ProKit rides slightly lower than my GS-R did with a bit stiffer Progress springs, and I could still get the Progress to rub if I wasn't careful. That said your car is quite a bit lighter, at least until you add the kiddies in the backseat.
Regarding the combo, however, I think it's a good one. The slightly stiffer-than-stock Eibachs should complement the slightly stiffer-than-stock blues. My LS is ever so slightly underdamped on stock shocks but I bet you're sitting prettty. I also feel Eibachs give the car a little bit less understeer which is nice. It's definitely a "smart" choice by the previous owner.
If you like the ride I'd say you've got a couple options. You could go along with what you're trying to do here and try to get wheels with just the right offset to fit comfortably. Or you could consider getting slightly under-sized tires. If you take 0.5-1" off the rolling diameter of your tires, you might have enough room to spare. However you will see larger fender gaps and you will ride noticeably closer to the ground.
If you want to keep the ride height and fender gap I guess just see how it goes. Down the road you could always get stiffer springs if the rubbing was excessive. Progress CSII shocks would work well at your ride height, although the ride will be ever so slightly stiffer. At $550 it's the cost of a set of tires anyways.
Edit: OR you could get just new springs. I wouldn't go extreme on the blues or you'll blow them, but Eibach makes a ton of rates at a ton of lengths. Just upgrading the rears would make your problem go away. You might get a little more rotation when you turn, too.
Just some stuff to think about.
Good luck with your build -- you've got such a nice platform. Civic hatches can be sooo quick.
As far as the Tokiko Blue + Eibach. I don't have personal experience with Tokiko but I think of the blues as a solid OEM replacement shock that is slightly stiffer than stock. Eibach makes springs as good as anybody, but like I said I think the ProKit is slightly too low for how stiff the springs are. My LS with ProKit rides slightly lower than my GS-R did with a bit stiffer Progress springs, and I could still get the Progress to rub if I wasn't careful. That said your car is quite a bit lighter, at least until you add the kiddies in the backseat.
Regarding the combo, however, I think it's a good one. The slightly stiffer-than-stock Eibachs should complement the slightly stiffer-than-stock blues. My LS is ever so slightly underdamped on stock shocks but I bet you're sitting prettty. I also feel Eibachs give the car a little bit less understeer which is nice. It's definitely a "smart" choice by the previous owner.
If you like the ride I'd say you've got a couple options. You could go along with what you're trying to do here and try to get wheels with just the right offset to fit comfortably. Or you could consider getting slightly under-sized tires. If you take 0.5-1" off the rolling diameter of your tires, you might have enough room to spare. However you will see larger fender gaps and you will ride noticeably closer to the ground.
If you want to keep the ride height and fender gap I guess just see how it goes. Down the road you could always get stiffer springs if the rubbing was excessive. Progress CSII shocks would work well at your ride height, although the ride will be ever so slightly stiffer. At $550 it's the cost of a set of tires anyways.
Edit: OR you could get just new springs. I wouldn't go extreme on the blues or you'll blow them, but Eibach makes a ton of rates at a ton of lengths. Just upgrading the rears would make your problem go away. You might get a little more rotation when you turn, too.
Just some stuff to think about.
Good luck with your build -- you've got such a nice platform. Civic hatches can be sooo quick.



