we just pulled the head of my buddys bone stock motor and found all the exhaust valves smacked the pistons. completely stock motor reving to 9k and alot of miss shifts.

i certainly didnt expect to see this and the valves didnt just kiss, they caught the reliefs and bottomed out in the pockets pretty bad. actually worse than i have ever seen.

i havent had time to throw the head back on and check clearances but i did some quick measuring and i came up w/ .010 shallower pockets than an h22 and they are also a bit narrower as well.

has anyone else checked clearances in these motors or really gotten into these things at all? cams? bent valves? valve pockets compared to h22?

im also curious about the stock cams as well if anyone has any info to share.

this is my first experience w/ one of these bluetops and any info i can gather would be a great help, thanks.

 

Well in about a month i'll be dropping pro1 cams in mine and P2v, V2v

 

I just tore a stock one down (thats what we used to build the 270-280 stock block motor we just finished) and my dad checked all clearences in stock form and ccd it . Ill get his book tomorrow and see what everything is. I havnt ever tore one of these aprt till this one so we was curious what everything was.

I was also kinda shocked when i pulled the head off and saw the dome on the pistons. This is realy a stout motor in stock form but deffently not as much clearence as a h22 in stock form.

 

I do believe the valve reliefs are not as big as the H22, motor wasn't designed to be revved as high as the H22, 9k rpm you kiddin? stock motor... I never reved it past 8k...

Rods I believe are a little shorter then a typical H23A1 rod, since the piston is more like a H22 piston then H23....

I have a fully built turbo one in my crx...

 

talk to rosko, he has had his hands pretty deep in them IIRC

 

for real? my buddies would see 8300 all day.

 

If it is actually stock, it may have just simply jumped timing. I recently just pulled a head off a f22a1 and all the exhaust valves were bent, because it jumped timing.

 

Every h22 that i have seen jump timing out of vtec didnt bend a valve . Every f22 that has jumped timing or broke a belt even idling has bent almost every valve in the motor lol.

I have all the stock stuff laying arounf the shop ill check it but im pretty sure the rods are stock h23 length rods and the piston have the h23 rist pin hole in the same place as a h23 with a 10.6 compression . I guess they could have just shortened the rod but i doubt it . Ill check.

 

thanks for the info everyone

no it did not jump timing

im guessing the tighter pockets along w/ the 9k revs (stock springs) and missed gears is what did it.

f20b jones if you have time to measure those rods or anything else you may have laying around that would be great. im trying to get a good idea of how these engines compare to the h22 exactly and we arent ready to tear down my buddies block just yet.

i was thinking of picking up one of these engines for myself to drop into my daily driver. if a set of springs would keep the exhaust valves from contacting the pistons (float), then i may still be interested in doing so otherwise i will have to opt for the old but true h 2 2 haha

 

Im out of town till tuesday (family emergency ) but ill measure them as soon as i get back. Im positive i held them up beside my h23 crowers and they were identical in length but ill check again. The piston is deffently not the same as a h22 and with that being said they had no reason to change the piston and the rod so i would bet the rods are the same but use the floating rist pin.

As many h motors as you have messed with you could see why a 55mm main h23 vtec would be a nasty stock motor to make power out of. It already has the floating rist pin rods (just upgrade rod bolts )and a 55mm crank . I know of a few of these motors that have made over 240hp with stock bottom end . I have never heard of any valve clearence issues but something deffently to check into .

I just cant see putting type s pistons on a h23 crank and rods (which makes the piston stick out the block 26 thousanths ) with out having clearence issues(as long as nothing has been shaved ) but this motor having them . On the other hand i take nothing for granted and will be glad to give you some exact measurements . Doesnt hurt to check.

 

I know this is old, but i think a lot of people forget about it, its probably one of the most useful things online i have used ha.

http://www.zealautowerks.com/hfseries.html

 

Im helping a buddy of mines build a h23vtec and were trying to push this blocks to its limits, similar to jaywest set up but just with a h23 block instead.

 

that calc is far from the reality, it gives you an idea but nothing more!

 

stock VT with after market cams? or just stock cams at 9k? stock bottom end? blows my mind that this motor was able to see 9k revs. I know of a place locally who sells em for $600 picked up. I have one, and would really love to see if you are able to take this thing to 9k with after market springs and cams.

 

pretty sure he said it was a completely stock motor

 

This the h23 that comes vtec just making sure we are talking about the same motor.

Im sure i could sell or hell i will buy as many as you can get for 600 dollars if there in good running condition.

The calculator is ok to get an idea but the further you push the piston into the combustion chamber the farther off the calculator becomes .

 

If its na read my thread on the stock block motor we just finished . It should be nasty hope to get it put in soon.

 

I just got back in town ill check tommorrow and ill take pics of the h23 vtec pistons beside the h22 so you can see the difference also . Ill post pics of the rods next to stock h23 non vtec rods as well since there seems to be come intrest to this thread.

 

Oh didn't notice, just skimmed through it. My bad.


Yeah, the h23a blue top. I own one. Got it for $600 with papers and tax all that jazz. My buddy was trying to buy one, but they kept telling him they would have them in 3 weeks, week after week lol. So who knows when they will have them again. If your interested look up "team orange" in Davie, florida.

This is there fan page V
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=352698069853

 

They are good motors PDE ones been getting 215hp with H trans, Euro R IM 68mm TB tuned. 175+ trq. 7500-7800 rpm

Ideally I wouldn't take it past 8-8500

But yes the valve pockets would scare me on some abuse... and with a bigger cam... rods are about 20k shorter then a H23A1 which is kinda koo... Mahles, mabye some valve relief work 60K + thick headgasket and decent cam and valvetrain...

 

fuuuuuuuuuu, my buddy had a pde stamped one. Mines is a p13 :/ any idea what those make? far off?

 

I took pics of the h23 vtec rods and pistons beside the h22 rod and piston and the h23 non vtec rod and piston . My battery was dead in my micrometer but i still tried to measure the h23 vtec rod . As far as i can tell they h23 vtec rods are the same length as the h23 non vtec rods. It has been stated that they are 20k shorter and if they are that would explain alot but id have to check a little better to confirm . If you bolt a h22 piston on a h23 non vtec rod the piston sticks out the block around 24k . The h23 vtec piston is close to level with the top of the block but yet from the rist pin to the top of the piston on the h23 vtec and the h22 measure the same which would lead me to beleive the statment that the h23vtec rod is 20k shorter then the h23 non vtec rod is true . As far as the valve reliefs go there no smaller then the h22 valve reliefs. I have noticed when the valves hit in these motors its not because there reliefs are not deep enough but that the reliefs are not cut back far enough . Also these motors come out of a auto wagon ,with auto cams ,and auto valve springs. I have already found three different spring pressures in h22-f20b heads and i beat if i checked the stock h23vtec springs they would be even weaker seeing this is a auto motor not desighned to rev that high . That may be why it bent valves stock.

The h23 vtes rod has a floating rist pin (ob2) Type s pistons will go right on with no mods .
The h23 non vtec has a non floating rist pin (obd1)
The h23 non vtec rod has rod nuts (obd1)
The h23 vtec has rod bolts (obd 2)
The h23 vtec is 10.1 compression ( same as usdm h22)
Both h23 rods are a good bit skinnier then the h22 rods
The h23 vtec piston has the same dome as a usdm h22 piston .
The h23 vtec piston Is alot smaller the the h22 piston and alot lighter .
The h23 vtec piston was built more like the light after market pistons.

 

measures 141.50 just like a stock non h23 vtec . (20k is hard to tell with my battery dead and i couldnt press the rist pin out the h23 non vtec to set them side by side. I will get it pressed off this week and get a new battery to confirm the 20k shorter.

You can see the different design in the h22 and the h23 vtec piston (so its not just a h22 piston on h23 rod ).

h23 vtec on left,h23 non vtec in the center, h22 vtec on right ( you can see how much higher the h22 vteC piston is and why it sticks up out the block 24k if bolted to the h23 rods and crank).

just showing the dome.

 

Man when it comes to anything H or F, F20bjones you're the most helpful person. You provide as much detail to these motors that are mostly over looked, especially when people are trying to do motor builds based off word of mouth/forums. You're the Stuff!!

 

nice update! So when will you have results?