this is a setup i tuned a few yrs ago. it was a GSR motor with 11.5:1 CR, SK2 IM, RMF header, BC IV cams. the first graph was a full dyno tune of the car w/ 2.5" piping. i recommended a 2.5" cutout and these were the revised results.

These cams like VTEC set high (6.5K rpms). no cam gear adjustments were made and cams were not dialed in.

 

I still would like to keep the Mugen because of the midrange use of the car. This is not for peak power, and I think that's the problem. I wanted a better midrange like the Todas. I'm going to do a few more changes, then I'm going back to toda. I want to keep a/c , P/S etc.

 

What kind of power are you looking to get in your mid range?

 

In the 135 to 140ft/lbs or so.

*UPDATE* seems as though the bolts to the intake air temp sensor were not tightened all the way and allowed a leak that gave a bad reading to the computer when VTEC kicked in. Since I replaced the bolts for a tighter seal, things have started to look better with the powerband of the cams, and the "hesitation" that was present before is now gone. I still may keep these.

 

Also, turns out my ignitor was bad, so I replaced it, and added an ignition system. But the cams are just too peaky. This may be more because of my header which I won't change. So I'm thinking the Toda Spec Bs were the way to go....

 

No other feedback?

 

im tryin to figure out what to do.. i really want a set of buddy club iv cams. but the only ones i can find in my price range are spec3's and toda a's
my setup is gsr 85.5mm bore
ls stroke.
12.5:1 cr
e.ndy.n intake mani
70mm skunk tb
pro-fab header
gsr head stage 3 p&p
supertech spring-ret-valves
its still a street car. i was running bc5 cams but my cr was um.. way off.. sold them now wish i hadnt.

 

If I put my Toda B's back in I'm willing to sell them to you if you'd like. Only about 1000 miles on them. PM me.

 

My setup was B18c1 with jdm gsr pistons(dont ask) with a Gsr head P&P milled .03 buddyclub headgasket,skunk2 springs,retainers,high comp valves. skunk2 pro manifold,Itr 4-1 with comptech intake and greddy sp exhaust. game gear settings felt best with 0,0 on hks cam gears. The tuning was done on the street mostly air fuel, ignition timing was a slightly tweaked itr table.

 

i have a set of bc4 cams goiing on an lsvtec 12.5:1 compression...and im wondering if this cams have to be degreed in? i know the skunk2 stage2 can be installed without degreing...i dont have the resources right now to have them degreed and nobody in my area can do it either..can i just do 0 in and 0 ex and not have any v2v or p2v contact?

 

your header is too long.. get it withing 830-780mm

 

I hope people looking to buy BCIV are also planing on spin to 9500-9800ish cuz thats where they REALLY gonna peak.. you see all this graphs of them leveling up at around 85, thats because they got "bolt on" manifolds with the wrong runner length. you want the runners 6-4.5 inches in order to squeeze all out of them, and your power is gonna jump at LEAST 15hp

 

Ah, this is interesting to know. Since I don't plan on revving that high or getting that length runner on a header, back to the TODA Bs I go..

 

so a p30 b16 manfold will choke this cams up?...i was under the impression bciv cams where made for mid rance torque like skunk2 pro series? and doesnt your powerband also depend on engine...for example a b16 vs b20 on the same cams b16 will peak higher...

 

ITR cams DEMOLISH all other after market cams on midrange. is not about chocking the cam, the problem is that the manifold is optimized for a certain powerband and then your cam wants an other.. it takes time on the dyno to get this straight. the bigger the motor the shorter your runners in oder to get the same peak out of the same cams. if modding the manifold is not an option, then more duration is the key.

 

He's right, my mid range feels lacking but the higher it revs the hard it pulls even at 9k.

 

so 45mm itb will not perform well with this cams....and has any one degreed bc4 cams before?...where they design to run at 0I-0E or do they have to be degreed in?
any v2v specs on this cams...

 

Even buddyclub 3+'s?

 

These cams need a close ratio gearbox and at least 12.5 to 1 comp,we are currently using them in a few 1800cc + race only motors with great results.In street motors I use a ITR exhaust cam with a Spec IV intake and mid range is very strong and they will still make power to 9200rpm.

 

ITR exhaust cam and BC4 intake cam? I would like to see a motor with that set up, along with which bolt on they're using. dyno graphs too..

 

Hmm.. YFZPilot was correct. In the middle of going back to the TODA Bs now. Anyone want some BCIVs?

 

I'm not trying to thread jack, but since there is good discussion going on in here..

What do you all think about Buddy Club cams in a stock ITR engine, What have you all seen perform the best?

 

that's what many here were referring to eariler. These cams need a lot of compression, and longer runner lengths to work properly. Having this cams on a Bone stock ITR will not produce any real results. This is main reason why I'm getting rid of mine going back to the TODA RACING B.

 

X2.

 

1 84.5mm crvtec. rs machine "itr" pistons. ls rods w/arps. GSR head, **** pnp work, BCIV's, Skunk2 gears, supertech springs, retainers, flat faced valves. blox intake manifold. rc 440's, S300, short ram w/blox velocity stack, hytech replica tri-y header, 2.5" exhaust w/cat and resonator, walbro 255, endyn breather kit, vented valve cover
2. i dont remember. +1, 0 i think.
3 11.5-12:1 i'd guess.
4 226/144
5. I feel they suited my build, but I wish I had gone with a lil more aggressive cam.