Joone's Street Power A/M Candy H2B EG Build
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There is a little bit of variance between each piston as well as each rod and even each wrist pin.
You can balance everything it by removing weight from the piston and rod with some sand paper, a drill, or a dremel but this isn't the method that I used.
We added up the weight on all three of these components and divided by 4 to come up with a total weight for each piston/rod/wrist pin combo...
example:
Piston1:350g Rod1:500g wrist pin1:80g
Piston2:347g Rod2:501g wrist pin2:81g
Piston3:352g Rod3:498g wrist pin3:79g
Piston4:349g Rod4:496g wrist pin4:78g
add them up for a grand total of: 3711grams
Now divide by 4, because that is how many cylinders a H/B/D/K has: 927.75
So 927.75 is what you want your piston,rod, and wrist pin combo to weigh. Then you mix and match to make it all come the closest to this number...
I didn't want to remove any material and accidentally make the piston or rod structurally weaker so this is the method we went with.
Hope that helps
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Thanks for all the kind words folks. I really appreciate it. I got a lot of work cut out for me this week but lets see what gets done. I will post an update later tonight, I have the semi-assembled short block back at the house and some stuff I ported yesterday at DNR Performance...
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Monday was the first day of my week off from school so I went over to DNR Performance in order to try n finish up some last minute things for my car.
Peek-a-boo!

Pistons are in!

My old balance shaft eliminator kit leaked from the freeze plugs in the oil pump so I decided to get a Kaizenspeed kit. You can definitely see the quality difference with the KS version.
old:

new:


After doing all of this, I went to town on my intake manifolds.
This is a stock RBC manifold with a Skunk2 K20 TB to RBC TB adapter. I port matched everything to 70mm...

Here is a pic of some weight reduction on the manifold, necessary to run this manifold on a h22 head and a k20 Type S head.

Here is the unfinished skunk2 manifold. I still gotta debur it and polish it but you get the idea.

And here is the modification I had to do to the manifold in order for it to fit my setup... (a lot of aluminum to cut off!!!)

and a shot of the cometic head gasket that came in, hahaha

I'm going to try n get some work done on the setup today. I'll post pics when I get a chance...
Peek-a-boo!

Pistons are in!

My old balance shaft eliminator kit leaked from the freeze plugs in the oil pump so I decided to get a Kaizenspeed kit. You can definitely see the quality difference with the KS version.
old:

new:


After doing all of this, I went to town on my intake manifolds.
This is a stock RBC manifold with a Skunk2 K20 TB to RBC TB adapter. I port matched everything to 70mm...

Here is a pic of some weight reduction on the manifold, necessary to run this manifold on a h22 head and a k20 Type S head.

Here is the unfinished skunk2 manifold. I still gotta debur it and polish it but you get the idea.

And here is the modification I had to do to the manifold in order for it to fit my setup... (a lot of aluminum to cut off!!!)

and a shot of the cometic head gasket that came in, hahaha

I'm going to try n get some work done on the setup today. I'll post pics when I get a chance...
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From: Dallas, TX
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Just wanted to post a small update from what I did in the last few days...
Last time the car ran, I had a big problem with my catch can filling up with oil and I didn't want to have to deal with it as much this year. I found one of the reasons oil was getting shot into the can was because the V.C. didn't have a good baffle protecting the area the bungs are welded to. I decided to fix this issue. Aki @ Blacktrax Performance cut off the old aluminum bungs and slid in an aluminum pipe so the bung would actually go inside the baffled area of the V.C.

Then I took the original baffle that was there and retraced it out of 6061 aluminum.

That stuff is hard to cut if you don't have the right tools but whatever. This is what it looked like when I was finished.

I had Danny Tran tack the baffle into the V.C.

Then I decided to get some work done on my head.

I sat at this desk for a while because I had to lap all the valves to make sure the seats were all smooth. I know it looks like I just popped some valves in but believe me, it took a while to get this done. (Intake side done)

Then I decided to clean out the exhaust ports, wash the outside of the head and clean anything else that looked like it needed to be cleaned.


Here is a look at the exhaust side of the head, I got only 4 valves done because I was lacking patience, decided it was best to save it for another day.

Some nice silver high temp paint.


And here is a bag of goodies I got from Honda. I should be installing a lot of this stuff in the next few days.

I'll try to get some more stuff done this week.
Last time the car ran, I had a big problem with my catch can filling up with oil and I didn't want to have to deal with it as much this year. I found one of the reasons oil was getting shot into the can was because the V.C. didn't have a good baffle protecting the area the bungs are welded to. I decided to fix this issue. Aki @ Blacktrax Performance cut off the old aluminum bungs and slid in an aluminum pipe so the bung would actually go inside the baffled area of the V.C.

Then I took the original baffle that was there and retraced it out of 6061 aluminum.

That stuff is hard to cut if you don't have the right tools but whatever. This is what it looked like when I was finished.

I had Danny Tran tack the baffle into the V.C.

Then I decided to get some work done on my head.

I sat at this desk for a while because I had to lap all the valves to make sure the seats were all smooth. I know it looks like I just popped some valves in but believe me, it took a while to get this done. (Intake side done)

Then I decided to clean out the exhaust ports, wash the outside of the head and clean anything else that looked like it needed to be cleaned.


Here is a look at the exhaust side of the head, I got only 4 valves done because I was lacking patience, decided it was best to save it for another day.

Some nice silver high temp paint.


And here is a bag of goodies I got from Honda. I should be installing a lot of this stuff in the next few days.


I'll try to get some more stuff done this week.
That makes a lot more sense. I was thinking about removing material, but I think you might end up running in circles by removing too much then trying to compensate by removing material from other parts.
There is a little bit of variance between each piston as well as each rod and even each wrist pin.
You can balance everything it by removing weight from the piston and rod with some sand paper, a drill, or a dremel but this isn't the method that I used.
We added up the weight on all three of these components and divided by 4 to come up with a total weight for each piston/rod/wrist pin combo...
example:
Piston1:350g Rod1:500g wrist pin1:80g
Piston2:347g Rod2:501g wrist pin2:81g
Piston3:352g Rod3:498g wrist pin3:79g
Piston4:349g Rod4:496g wrist pin4:78g
add them up for a grand total of: 3711grams
Now divide by 4, because that is how many cylinders a H/B/D/K has: 927.75
So 927.75 is what you want your piston,rod, and wrist pin combo to weigh. Then you mix and match to make it all come the closest to this number...
I didn't want to remove any material and accidentally make the piston or rod structurally weaker so this is the method we went with.
Hope that helps
You can balance everything it by removing weight from the piston and rod with some sand paper, a drill, or a dremel but this isn't the method that I used.
We added up the weight on all three of these components and divided by 4 to come up with a total weight for each piston/rod/wrist pin combo...
example:
Piston1:350g Rod1:500g wrist pin1:80g
Piston2:347g Rod2:501g wrist pin2:81g
Piston3:352g Rod3:498g wrist pin3:79g
Piston4:349g Rod4:496g wrist pin4:78g
add them up for a grand total of: 3711grams
Now divide by 4, because that is how many cylinders a H/B/D/K has: 927.75
So 927.75 is what you want your piston,rod, and wrist pin combo to weigh. Then you mix and match to make it all come the closest to this number...
I didn't want to remove any material and accidentally make the piston or rod structurally weaker so this is the method we went with.
Hope that helps

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Just wanted to post a progress report for ya'll...
I got the valves lapped...

and valve springs in...


I put a helper spring on one intake valve and one exhaust valve, they are going to be used to degree the motor in a couple days...

Getting the block ready to be clayed...

Oil pump and balance shaft eliminator kit is in...

I only have rockers in the first cylinder so it would be easy to degree the cams in the next few days... courtesy home auto repair by DNR. haha

Excellent results: The clay shows more than .035" clearance between the piston and valve. I also have a bunch of clearance between the piston and the rest of the head... Pretty excited!

Getting ready to go round 2 with the claying process.

The clay stuck to the valves this time around but the results are still great!

The room in between the exhaust valve and the piston with this setting...

The night ended with the head and cams back on the block. Once DNR degrees the cams, I will finish the rest of the motor.

Let's see how things go.
I got the valves lapped...

and valve springs in...


I put a helper spring on one intake valve and one exhaust valve, they are going to be used to degree the motor in a couple days...

Getting the block ready to be clayed...

Oil pump and balance shaft eliminator kit is in...

I only have rockers in the first cylinder so it would be easy to degree the cams in the next few days... courtesy home auto repair by DNR. haha

Excellent results: The clay shows more than .035" clearance between the piston and valve. I also have a bunch of clearance between the piston and the rest of the head... Pretty excited!

Getting ready to go round 2 with the claying process.

The clay stuck to the valves this time around but the results are still great!

The room in between the exhaust valve and the piston with this setting...

The night ended with the head and cams back on the block. Once DNR degrees the cams, I will finish the rest of the motor.

Let's see how things go.
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Thanks Jeff...
I got some stuff done on the block this week so I'll be posting pics soon. You might also see a surprise...
I got some stuff done on the block this week so I'll be posting pics soon. You might also see a surprise...
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Everyday!... naaawwt!
I havnt daily driven this car for a few years but when it was daily driven, it was on a few different wheels. I had a set of SSR Type X's, some Stern Aguzze's, and some other random wheels as well...
Just a heads up, that RBC manifold will kill your hp and tq if you don't invest into a good header! A friend of mine dyno his car with the RBC manifold with 72mm tb on his h22 with stock header he pushed out 175hp and 141tq tuned. After he bought some hytech replica header he pushed out 188hp and 155tq. He took it to a local shop and retuned his car he made 206hp with 166tq. So just a heads up since your heading that direction either ways :]
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Just a heads up, that RBC manifold will kill your hp and tq if you don't invest into a good header! A friend of mine dyno his car with the RBC manifold with 72mm tb on his h22 with stock header he pushed out 175hp and 141tq tuned. After he bought some hytech replica header he pushed out 188hp and 155tq. He took it to a local shop and retuned his car he made 206hp with 166tq. So just a heads up since your heading that direction either ways :]
The last setup made 274whp and 186 trq on a SSR/DTR tri-y megaphone header. The intake manifold was a skunk2 with matched tb inlet for a 70mm tb. Other than that the intake manifold was untouched...
hopefully this time around we can get near the 300 hp marker, we will have to wait and see...
thanks for the heads up though, I agree 100% that the RBC manifold needs to be matched with a quality header to make power.



