D2 RS Coilovers
D2 LCA's
Suspension Techniques 22mm adjustable rear sway bar
stock front sway bar
eBay upper strut bars
eBay real lower strut bar

starting to get a feel for the suspension since i started tracking it...will be changing some things maybe next year.




not much body roll in this turn...RR tire getting some air

 

95 coupe built sohc ready for b00st (going on 2 years now)

Koni yellows
Eibach ground control coilovers
Skunk2 front camber kit
Omni rear camber kit
Front upper neuspeed A-Arm strut bar
Megan racing H-brace
Stock Front sway with Energy endlinks
Comptech rear sway bar+tie bar combo
Omni rear LCA's (2nd gen)
Energy suspension bushings pressed in through out entire car (took 18 straight hours of Hate My Car labor)
Energy suspension rear trailing arm bushings
Falken Azenis tires bc even all the best suspension in the world doesnt mean crap if you cant put it to the ground.

Have a roll cage that needs to go in but i doubt itll ever make it.

 

00 Ej8 Sedan

Ground controls
Koni yellows
Ingalls camber kit
Rear ASR sway bar/brace kit
Beaks lower tie bar
Function 7 LCA's
Ebay front strut bar =x haha

 

Was this car at VIR circuit school july 26?

my setup...
05 RSX-S

Tein flex with EDFC
F7 Rear LCA's
Progress 24mm adjustable rear sway bar
Progress 27mm front sway bar
password jdm front lca spherical bearing
Tein front strut bar

 

yes it was

 

'92 Si
JDM V-Spec coilovers
Ingalls camber kit
ST rear sways
Miusta Engineering, Inc. rear subframe brace & lower bar
DC Sports front strut bar
Invidia Carbon fiber rear strut bar
Energy Suspension bushings

 

This I don't understand. How can you be running an ITR sway on a non-ASR equiped non-EK9 EK subframe? Besides you'd do much better on an EK with an EK9 style sway instead of the ITR (style).

Have the same setup laying around waiting to be installed (no top hats (yet)), with EK9 sway frnt/rr. There is no point in not using the top groove with the Skunks since you cannot use the extra space if you use lower grooves.

and I have them

FYI SI rear sway is 13mm, EDM and JDM EK4 is 15mm (same brackets diff bushings). Get the ASR brace. Do not get the ITR sway. Get EK9 sway (style).

I'm curious. You'r hatch did not have the backing plates on the subframe like the SI and EK4 has, so:
- did you use some form of backing plate,
- how did you solve the prob that the holes in the subframe are bigger than the bolts from the brackets?

Pic1 : EK4 subframe with backing plates; pic 2: EK4 15mm sway

 

got a '95 civic coupe

RS*R Race springs
Skunk2 Sport shocks(fronts are blown)
Hardrace Camber kit, f & r
Password JDM solid tower bars, f & r
Skunk2 LCA
Falken ZE-512, 205/15/50

nice and stiff, feels really stable in the corners
not much body roll at all

really rough on city streets, maybe because my front shocks are blown
got some Koni STRT shocks coming any day

 

I don't know man the Sway bar is on the car now. As for the Skunk2 rings needed them because I just bought brand new Koni's and didn't lose the warranty.

As for this guy he doesn't really have a "stock" si sway bar, he has the optional AEM one that bolts to subframe and not the tear out brackets. Trust me this bastard has a lot of goodies on this EK.

 

What makes an EK9 swabar so much better than the ITR? An ITR rear sway with the ASR adapter things should be the same as the CTR bar

 

1991 Honda Civic Lx

Sprint Lowering Springs (1000)
2.50F & 2.25R
Tokico HP Blue Struts
195/50/15 Nexen
15" Ls Mesh
Stock LCA

 

I would like to see this, do you have or can you make a picture?

I'll check it out then

 

1) they designed for the EK9 a sway diff in shape from the ITR sway so I suppose the engineers had good reason to do so
2) as the shape is diff the way the sway works is diff. The ITR ends are more loop shaped so force transmission is less direct (also endlink positioning is diff?)
3) to quote PasswordJDM:
4) ASR style endlinks suck: the joints are completely exposed so they rust and rattle.

 

the reason the asr endlinks "rust and rattle" is because they are spherical. they are not fixed like oem units. they are a "race type" application and if you race and you are worried about them making noise then you shouldnt be in the racecar.

 

Current:
2000 Civic Si
Koni Yellows with GC 375f/450r and GC extended tophats all around
Comptech rear subframe brace with CTR rear sway bar. Squeaky urethane bushings because that's the only bushing that will fit the comptech bar.
Ingalls rear UCA's for camber adjustment. Been on for 6+ years.
The car is lowered to maybe a finger gap between the fender and tires.
-1.5*f/-2.2*r
For DD and autox this setup rocks. The rear is a bit reactive to bumps in the road, but it is manageable.

Previous:
KYB AGX's with GC 375f/300r, no top hats. KYB's don't like to be lowered very much. Blew them and went Koni.
Stock 13mm rear sway bar. upgraded to CTR and never looked back.
Ingalls front UCA's. Started to squeak and don't need them anyway. GONE!

 

I'm too lazy to take pics. BTW I think that AEM bar was only offered in the states as a factory performance option. Also I have the spherical links on my car for the past 8 or 9 years and they don't rattle but I haven't auto-x this car or drive it too hard on corners.

 

You are mistaken my friend Of course EK endlinks (perhaps I should clarify I mean the SI/EDM-JDM EK type endlink) are spherical or they would'nt work, now would they.

You can hardly deny that the ASR style endlinks are exposed to all weather and dirt conditions and sooner or later will pay the price for this.

EK endlinks are encapsulated with a rubber and metal cap.

My lower front arm:

 

what makes you think that is spherical bearing?

 

LOLOL

well said


however, it may be possible that round end links are called this in europe even though we would call a spherical end link one that's solid metal with a swivel bushing or bearing in it.

 

same endlinks my buddy has on his em1 and they are not spherical. they are the same style as an integra where it is basically a rod with two "blocks" on the end with studs coming out.

whether or not they are spherical in europe or japan. i dont know. but if i was to bet i would say no because...like he quoted before.."they rattle and rust" aka not something a normal person could stand to deal with. which happens to be about 98 percent of the people to drive cars that you see on the road every day.

 

totally, hey, have you guys tried the energy suspension end links? i've had great luck in street use. they aren't weather sensitive and are a good deal more firm than the stock style pictured above. OEM spheres lol

 

Oops!, look at what i started. Let me try to conclude this...


All swaybars work in the same way. There are different shapes and sizes to change the effectiveness but they all share the same concept.
I dont know if you've ever compared the CTR and ITR bars side to side but they are pretty much the same with the exception of the ends where the endlinks link up.
The reason they are different their is because they use a completely different (and IMO better) end link:

Finally ASR style endlinks with spherical bearings are required when using Function7 LCAs (on EKs) so in that case swaybar choice does not matter.


And to end the debate of spherical vs stock, here are some pics:

ASR endlinks with spherical bearings


Blox OE Replacement end links with BALL JOINTS!!

 

I concur I have both, but I put the CTR on only because the endlinks from my Si are the same and attach the same as the CTR.

Has anyone actually tried using the ITR endlinks on their Civic, 96-00 specifically?

 

OK, so we may be talking about diff things here.

This is a pic of my EK9 swaybar which I got with torn off endlink: you can see the ball at the end of stud which is the inner part of the joint of the endlink. You wouldn't call this 'spherical' then?




So these are clearly not 'blocks' but '*****'. Called 'ball joints' above I don't see why these should be inferior to what you call 'sperical joints' since the principle is the same.

Do you mean 98% drivers with rusted and rattling endlinks then ...

The reason I state this is that I know several local people who put ASRs on because they mounted aftermarket arms but they all switched back to OEM style (by cutting the aftermarket arms' endlink mount) because of rusting and all.


So there āre diffs in 'effectiveness', this is what I meant.

I do my research thank you. The ITR part from endlink to D-bracket is longer, the bent is longer than EK9, so I would guess EK9 has more direct force transmission.

Why would these be better then?

 

whoa. no need to get defensive. when i said "box" type i was talking about the outer appearance. and there is a difference between a spherical bearing(also see..heim joint) and a ball joint.

and the term IMO can be used often when discussing suspension theory and parts.