cool it guys.

 

pirate whats poppin with the build?

poor chris. alot of work when into his car and that sig is disrespectfull but to each is own.

 

So is building the Vtec hybrid your final choice?

I would like to have seen a sohc build done by you

 

It's pretty definitive that it will be an H22 head. It's already got the money in it and I never really got the chance to use it. If I started off with an F22 SOHC I'd have to spend the time/money into refurbishing it. I have a K24 that's getting all the nice parts (sorry the K24's more cost effective). No need to spruce up the POS Prelude. It just has to be practical and mildly entertaining for the daily commute/occasional track use.

Parts (including Type-S cams) cleaned up a bit:

Street ported H22 head.

Old DPR titanium retainers, stock H22A1 outers and DPR inner springs.

old Skunk2 gears.


Since I'm going to have the gearbox out I want to replace the synchros while it's easy to do so. I'll get some carbon synchros and see if I can swap in the M2B4 5th gear.

 

Be careful with the Gearspeed syncro sets. People have encountered longevity problems with them.

 

Nuts, any suggestions on a reliable alternative? I know SMSP sells synchro rebuild kits but I know know if his are any better than just going to NAPA...

 

As usual the build is snowballing. I need new synchros, I need a new clutch, a light weight FW would be nice, I discovered a nasty dent in the secondaries on my header, the muffler/resonator packing is degrading and is not nearly as quiet as it once was, I need new brake pads, 2 new tires, looking at making/buying a balance shaft eliminator kit and I have not even bought the pistons yet.

owie:


I don't even remember hitting anything.

 

SMSP only sells the syncros. Iirc, the hubs are often the problem as well. Which all gears are failing in yours..anything wrong with oem barring price?

 

I have not had the gearbox out recently to look. After my Jan 5 half track day 5th gear has started to grind. I've never abused 5th gear. I think that the M2F4 has about 140k miles on it and I've not had it apart for the last 42K miles when I had the Quaife installed.

First through fourth are still pretty good. The track I use is short and tight 2nd-4th are the ones used the most.

It's just odd that 5th started grinding so suddenly. This weekend I think we'll try swapping in the spare M2B4 to prevent damage to the synchro sleeves/cogs themselves. OEM equipment is fine but the prices are pretty steep:

23521-p16-306 $300
23626-p16-316 $100

It also seems that the aftermarket after 17 years could engineer some improvements into the oem design which is a reason for trying something new but if it comes down to it I might have to spring for OEM if the steel parts are too messed up.

 

Cant wait, I love the H-F series motors. I should toss the B18C out

 

Who? I have almost 3 seasons on mine without any problems.

 

to me, you answered your own question right there.

 

I hope you're not thinking that just because it's not Hella Vtak y0! that it's bound for mediocre results. Besides it's going to be hella Vtak y0! anyway. It's been decided.

I think I'm looking at about $1800 for the build. Not exactly a small amount of scratch but not a bad price for quality parts.

 

There's really no new updates here. I still want to build this but my motivation's stalled out at the moment. I've been looking at clutches and flywheels. I can't find a nice FW for a "reasonable" price so I'm thinking I'll grab a roughing endmill and a Hanita finisher and do something like this to my spare OEM FW at work:



Of course I'll have to get it balanced but I might as well do that to everything in the system, so it's not a big deal.

I've also grabbed a set of ARP head studs that will be used in the build.



I've also got an idea on how to plug the oil return holes in th head in a lightweight fashion.

And finally, I got some custom pistons on order too, ~4 weeks.

So many machine work projects so little time...

 

will doing this to the flywheel work??? ive never heard or seen anybody attempt something that out of the box to a flywheel

 

Out of the box? It's just lightening the stock flywheel. All the important parts are still there. There are 8 bolt holes for the crank, a friction surface and mounting points and pins for the clutch and a ring gear for the starter. What's different than this ACT Chomoly Prolite or this OEM Honda K20A from a DC5 Type-R?

 

Pistons are ~2 weeks out.
87mm
3 cc dome
22mm pin offset .030"
1.181 compression height

This is the H22 IM I'm going to use. It's had the EGR removed and the port welded as well as the runners ported a little:


Some nice RDX 410cc injectors are pending sale.

I've taken some measurements on the OEM flywheel. It weighs 18.4 pounds stock and it looks like I can get it down about 8-10 pounds depending on how much material I remove and where. I'm looking at 2 setups minimum and maybe up to four depending on how much I want to remove. I never noticed before but the ring gear's pressed onto the OD of the cast part. So it might be riding a fine line removing a lot of material from the OD without tweaking the ring gear's fit.

I've got work to do this weekend and I think I'll see what I can do to the FW then. I've got a "Want To Buy" post in the forum sticky here:
Linky
There have been a few offers on the lower timing gear but there's a few other items I'll need too. So PM me please if you have something.

So all in all it's coming along.
-P

 

give me you damn address and ill send this **** out to you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



ok sorry, im drunk.


































but i do have the gear for you

 

I understand that, but so do Acidcrakker, lude98SH, and 117. 117 has some of the other parts and I'm waiting to hear back from him on a final price quote so I can tell everyone that I don't need theirs. I'm trying to consolidate all the shipping as it's not cheap.

And I just found my old H23 oil cooler too. So nix that item from the list.

Oh! Blake, if it's within your power to rename the thread I'd appreciate it. Something about "'winter' build" would work for me.

 

its spring now..ha

 

I got a little done on the mill today. I got the first operation done on the clutch side.

Before

After


Dropped 2.3 pounds off so far and there's probably 5-6 pounds left on the back side.

 

wow....you have some amazing resources! I'm always impressed by what you cook up!

 

Before:

After:


Final weight is 12 pounds. Ought to be good enough. It's not the lightest but I figure it's cast iron which is not nearly as strong a quality 4130 billet chromoly steel. I paid a lot of attention to removing as much material as I could from the OD where it's less structural and has the greatest influence on MoI. With a 180wtq engine it should rev pretty quick.

 

great work man

 

That's pretty neat. CNC mills are pretty useful--a little spare time and now that flywheel is 2/3 the weight and probably less than half the inertia.