holmesnmanny

I've tested every single component in the engine compartment to find my misfire woes that have been getting worse and worse and finally got around to going into the brand new distributor. I took the cap off and oil was coming out of the bottom of the cap.

The distributor was bought as new off ebay. Obviously it's td-60u internal coil jdm h22a distributor. I cleaned all the oil and see that it appears that the internal seal is leaking somehow. I find this pretty odd even tho I am using fully synthetic max edge 5-30 oil. I'm really surprised the seal is failing but I ordered another seal off ebay and was going to do like u do with major seals and put some grease on the lip so it breaks in easier.

However, I'm testing the coil and I get .8-.9 ohms(which becomes .7 .8 when subtracting the internal resistance from the meter) from A to B terminals however when I test from what I think is the secondary terminal to either of A or B terminals I get only 15.8 ohms. Both the prelude and accord specs call for atleast 12000 ohms so is it safe to assume I'm doing this correct and it's a bad coil and if so, did the oil cause this thing to go bad ? When I say secondary terminal I assume that has to be the thing with the spring sticking out of it cause I can't find anything else on the coil with it removed completely from the distributor.

thanks in advance

GhostAccord

What do you have your multimeter set too?

coil
Primary resistance measured between the two tabs should be .4 - .6 Ohm
Secondary winding is measured between tab A (+) and the coil spring. = 24k - 36k Ohm

With the results that you are getting I would say that is a bad coil. I don't think the oil in there would have contributed to the premature failure. IMO Reman distributors are always hit and miss. I've seen the ignitor fail within 2-3 weeks on one. The reason they sell them so cheap is becuase they use cheap parts or skip some..... like replacing the internal seal.

holmesnmanny

I have it set to 200k for the secondary and only 200 for the initial test

I got it from this guy here....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400194686751?item=400194686751&viewitem=&sspagenam e=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

supposed to be brand new

I sent him an email and he said that he couldn't warranty it cause it's past the three months and that he would sell me another for 105 which is his cost and he would cover the shipping. He said it was rare for it to go bad.

GhostAccord

Then if the readings are as you stated, it's toast.

If it is truly that rare. Maybe they should have more than a 90 day limited warranty on them....... That's the same warranty you get for a re-manufactured distributor.

Wow he's giving you $45 off. I'd be looking for more than that. Having the coil fail and the oil seal fail is pretty bad for a "New" distributor. That ebay listing states they ship for Free. So what's the big deal with him covering the shipping? IMO it's poor customer service.

Sign of the times I guess. Everyone wants to make money off selling cheap crap.

GhostAccord

What brand are the coil and ignitor that they used?

It says that the electronics exceed OEM specs and are specially designed to give racers an edge....

I guess they, they being Stock Series, make there own coil and ignitor.

holmesnmanny

I'm going to hit him up for just a new coil considering I'm buying the new seal as well as cap and rotor.

holmesnmanny

Hey ghost I'm not so sure I'm testing this thing correctly. I just want to doublecheck. I'm referring to secondary terminal testing not the primary which seems to be testing fine.

When I set it to 20k it takes a few seconds for it to get a reading as it stays at 1(infinite) for a few secs, then it comes down to say 15.95. If I put it on 2k it stays at 1(infinite) forever as well as for 200 setting.

I would figure if I'm only getting indeed 15.9 ohms it should come up with both 2k and 200 setting but it's not.

GhostAccord

Secondary should read between 24,000 to 34,000 Ohms. Therefore You have to set your meter above 20k. You should have your meter set to 200,000 Ohms (200k). That's what you said that you were using before. Was the 20k above a typo? If you tested the secondary @ 200,000 and your only getting 15.95, the coil needs to be replaced.

holmesnmanny

Yeah I tried it at all settings. I just think it's weird that the two lowest settings give nothing but an infinite reading. At any rate, I'm going to be getting a new coil. thanks for the help

GhostAccord

No problem

I'm pretty sure it has to do with the resistance being larger than the selected setting will measure/display.

holmesnmanny

This loser decided to block me rather than work with me. I was going to give him another try with a new coil but I see that I'm being blocked.

his ebay user name is all_ignition

I would suggest that nobody buys from this seller as it is obvious he is selling junk and will not stand behind his product at all.

100k miles my ***. I didn't even make 1000 miles.

GhostAccord

It's unfortunate that you can't go back a few months after and write a review of an ebay members junk eh! I hate the fact that you have to give feedback in a timely matter, I say if a part has a warranty. Then give feedback once that part has worked for longer than 90 days. I know that wouldn't work, no one would remember to leave the feedback..... Oh well!

Poor customer service and scamers suck ***. Check out his feedback. He does sell a lot of these cheap products so his FB% is 99.5%. This doesn't take into account all of the neutral (really negative) FB he has gotten. He seems to work extremely hard at making any neutral or negative FB the buyers fault.

It's quite obvious from reading the FB that he sells cheaply made products. Like I said, sign of the times, when times are tough people try and save money and these are the people that you run into with their cheap crap.

Should add him to the buyer beware thread.

Hopefully you'll have better luck with it after you instal a real coil and seal.

hondarin

Were you getting any CEL's? I'm having a similar problem, my car started running really rich after sitting for 2 weeks. When I took off the distributor cap, there was oil in it. I cleaned out the oil, drove my car about 9 miles, then when I tried to restart it, it wouldn't start. I had to wait 15 to 20 min before it would start, then I got a CEL for map sensor.

Your issue sounds really similar to mine, so I thought I would ask.

Thanks

motegicivic

No wonder it is 150..........too cheap, get what you pay for.

Don't give him any more business, I would get one from Advance and use a coupon code, at least you can take it back.

holmesnmanny

yeah, he tried saying it was ebay doing it, but he didn't respond until after I told him I went elsewhere. Ebay doesn't just block people for fun. All they care about is money.

I just realized this is the same exact part as my internal coil for my accord. The part number is honda number 30510-PT2-006 or tc-08a .

I bought the seal off ebay. There's a writeup in the faq's for how to take the distributor apart.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/270873332460...84.m1439.l2649

GhostAccord

IIRC all the Honda internal coil distributors use the same style coil. B, D, H, or F.

that seal is not hard to replace, cheap part too. I'm only hopping that it's not the OEM "replica" housing that isn't the issue. Make sure to check the oil seal surfaces when you remove the old oil seal. Could be out of round or an imperfection of some sort that is causing it too leak. Hopefully it's just the seal though. Fingers crossed!

holmesnmanny

So I got my new coil and tested it with the same multimeter( I have tried without success to find a copy of the owners manual ) and I'm getting the same type of readings that I got before.

So I did a little bit of research and it appears that I do indeed need to interpret 15.9 (or as is the case with the new coil 17.2) as 15.9k if I have it set on 20k.

http://www.kzrider.com/forum/4-elect...meter-settings

I guess it just depends on the type of mm you have.

GhostAccord

15,900 & 17,200 are still lower than the coil specs should be. Maybe the battery in your multimeter is running low. I know when the 9v battery in my meter gets low it will start giving out false data. Mine is just a cheap Mastercraft digital multimeter.

holmesnmanny

Ok, sounds good, I will replace the batteries tomorrow when I'm feeling better( got a cold right now just woke up after 16 hours in bed) and will give it another test.

holmesnmanny

I just wanna update this. I finally took apart the distributor and the seal is clearly old and worn when compared to the new one I got. I can see where it has discolored due to wear and the lip is straight when compared to the new one which has a curve. I think the oil leaking inside caused problems possible when being flung around the cap and rotor which are clearly worn down. I will be getting a new cap and rotor and will test the new coil tomorrow again when I make it out of the house to get some batteries. I don't think the problem is the coil 'though. We'll see.