accordfreak

okay here it goes...i have a 1994 accord ex f22b1 vtec

Before i took everything off for smog i had turbo with hondata on 550cc injectors with a 3 bar map sensor, and with the EGR system taken out. raN GREAT!

now i put everything back to stock: stock intake, header, EGR system back in, stock fuel system with stock ECU.

now my stupid idle is jacked up.. when i first start the car, it idles above 1k rpms even though the car is fully warmed up. when i rev it then it constantly goes up and down from 1000 to 1500.

i checked all the stupid vacuum lines and they all seem to be connected.. and i hear no signs of leaks... what now?!??? this is starting to get me mad because my car was down for 3 weeks due to a stupid fuel leak.... pleaaase helpp


Modified by accordfreak at 4:02 AM 8/30/2003

david90

wow, u did all of that? I'm impress. r u female?

AngryTroll

Try these steps to help diagnose the problem (borrowed from an old tech sheet for '90-'93 Accords but most of it should apply for '94).


1. Make sure the throttle valve is fully closed and
the throttle cable adjustment is correct.
2. Check the tamper paint on the throttle stop screw.
This screw must not be moved from its factory
setting. If the screw has been moved, you must
replace the throttle body to correct the idle speed.
3. Make sure the vacuum hose for the starting air
valve (air boost valve on ’90–91 models) is
correctly routed and connected to the port on the
air intake duct.
4. Pull off the air intake duct from the throttle body,
then locate the two ports inside the throttle body,
one at the 10 o’clock (upper) position, the other at
the 7 o’clock (lower) position.
5. Start the engine, then cover both ports with your
fingers.

Does the engine still run?
<FONT COLOR="blue">YES – The engine has a vacuum leak. Go to
step 6.
NO – There aren’t any vacuum leaks. Restart
the engine, and go to step 9. </FONT>

6. Block off the throttle body to make the engine
idle only off the vacuum leak. Keep the throttle
body blocked for steps 7 and 8.
7. One at a time, pinch off the vacuum hoses at the
intake manifold.
<FONT COLOR="blue">
• If the engine stalls when you pinch a hose, find
the cause of the leak in that vacuum circuit,
repair it, and then go to step 13.
• If the engine doesn’t stall when you pinch the
hoses, go to step 8. </FONT>

8. With the engine idling, carefully check for
vacuum leaks by spraying carburetor cleaner or
applying propane to the intake manifold plenum
gasket, the intake manifold-to-cylinder head
gasket, and the throttle body gasket. (Any change
in rpm means the gasket you just sprayed is
leaking.) Replace the leaking gasket(s), then go to
step 13.
9. Disconnect the 2P connector on the IAC (idle air
control) valve (EACV on ’90–91 models), and
check for vacuum at the throttle body lower port.

Is there vacuum?

<FONT COLOR="blue">YES – The IAC valve is stuck open. Replace
it, then go to step 13.
NO – Go to step 10. Keep the IAC valve
disconnected for steps 10 thru 12. </FONT>

10. Cover the throttle body upper port.

Does the engine stall?
<FONT COLOR="blue">YES – The base idle is misadjusted, the fast
idle thermo valve is defective, or the
starting air valve is defective. Restart
the engine, and go to step 11.
NO – Make sure the throttle plate is fully
closed. If it isn’t, check for a binding
throttle shaft. If the shaft binds, replace
the throttle body. </FONT>
11. Turn the idle adjusting screw clockwise until it
seats.

Does the engine stall?

<FONT COLOR="blue">YES – The base idle speed was misadjusted.
Go to step 13.
NO – The fast idle thermo valve may be
leaking. Go to step 12. </FONT>

12. Remove the cover from the fast idle thermo valve,
and plug the center of the valve with your finger
while the engine idles.

Does the engine stall?

<FONT COLOR="blue">YES – The fast idle thermo valve is probably
leaking. Before you replace the valve,
check for any of these conditions that
can prevent it from closing:
– Restricted coolant flow to or from the
valve
– Low coolant
– Air pockets in the cooling system
If the cooling system is OK, replace the
fast idle thermo valve, then go to step 13.
NO – Replace the starting air valve, then go
to step 13. </FONT>

13. Set the base idle speed to 550 rpm with the IAC
valve connector disconnected, the engine warmed
up, all electrical systems off, and the transmission
in P or N.
14. Reconnect the IAC valve, reinstall the air intake
duct, and reset the ECM.
15. Make sure the idle speed is correct. With all
electrical systems off, it should be 720–820 rpm
in P or N.




Modified by AngryTroll at 6:05 AM 8/30/2003

AngryTroll

It's important to understand the idle adjusting screw and the idle stop screw are not the same. Leave the idle stop screw alone....

accordfreak

thanks for your help! i will try all that tomorrow!