lemac

What is the real difference between these to motors?
And is it worth the time, effort and money to replace my B16a with a B16b?

thanks
mike

hybrider

think of it this way, what would you do with an extra 2,000 dollars?

exactly........

STEALTHMODECOUPE

R you serious

the real difference? might as well compare it to an itr motor or gsr motor as well... the only similiarity is the displacement and the head is of the same cast.

EK MONEY

iTrader: (5)

b16b has a different set of cams, final drive, has LSD, bigger TB and intake manifold, meant to be driven hard, better valves, higher compression, meant to be reved higher, better factory equiped header, and some other small things...

redline201

waste of money
i heard a jdm b18c (gsr) would be faster and CHEAPER

JaeOne3345

once again:

for one..a b16b is a *destroked* b18c block. its NOT a b16a block. so dont get that mentality "if i just swap in b16b pistons and cams etc etc in my b16a ill have a b16b", nope sorry.

liam821

Here is all the [engine] differences...

Cylinder Head - Complete port & polish
Exhaust Valve Spring - High-lift, dual-layered spring
Sparkplug - High-heat-type #7 platinum plug
Pistons - High-compression, low-friction, custom pistons
Connecting Rod - High-output, high-durability, lightened, custom conrod
Engine Stiffener - Aluminum die-cast, high-durability, one-piece type
Crankshaft - Full-balancer, 8-weight, high-output, custom crankshaft
Inlet Valves - Lightened inlet valves
Inlet Valve Springs - High-lift, flat-surfaced, dual-layered spring
Camshaft - Wide-angled, high-lift, high-durability camshaft
Intake Manifold - High-RPM type.

liam


[Modified by liam821, 11:30 PM 2/4/2003]

lemac

Thanks for the info regarding the B16B motor.

I live in South Africa and trying to find decent parts here is like trying to find a needle in a hay stack.

You seem to know what your talking about, I Drive a stock standard B16a 4 door vtec 1997 model 170bhp. Where does one start to modify and what parts (I am a fan of Greddy, Mugen and AEM) And should I put a turbo and Intercooler first or modify the engine to the max first.

Mike

STEALTHMODECOUPE

wow africa! thas cool as heck..start with some simple mods that are somewhat easy on the pockets like- AEM cold air intake $200- JDM 4-1 header $350- catback exhaust $500-1000..

adaM

vivid02

I say you turbo your stock motor. It will give you more power and be more fun than the B16b will be.

4g4me

everyone fails to mention that it is a b18c block destroked to a 1.6.

if you are going to spend 4000 on a motor, better get the 1.8

But that is not not the topic of discussion

R you serious

why dont you read all the posts before you say that

JaeOne3345

i mentioned that buddy.

liam821

hhaah thats why i didnt say it. it was already said it the posts above!

liam

japspec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redline201 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">waste of money
i heard a jdm b18c (gsr) would be faster and CHEAPER
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You hear too much.

gsrjeff

why waste money on bolt ons if you go turbo there a waste cant use them
and if ur thinking about b16b then u have the money for a turbo instead
i have a b16a obd1 in a 92 hatch i beat my friends 99 ex that has a b16b swap beat him by like 4 cars and i still have a o2 sensor code when the check engine code is on the ecu retards timing and adds fuel which means im not 100% i also have a shity stock clutch in the car right know but not for long hehehe
next week i should beat him by 8 cars i have a few tricks up my sleves

japspec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrjeff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why waste money on bolt ons if you go turbo there a waste cant use them
and if ur thinking about b16b then u have the money for a turbo instead
i have a b16a obd1 in a 92 hatch i beat my friends 99 ex that has a b16b swap beat him by like 4 cars and i still have a o2 sensor code when the check engine code is on the ecu retards timing and adds fuel which means im not 100% i also have a shity stock clutch in the car right know but not for long hehehe
next week i should beat him by 8 cars i have a few tricks up my sleves</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well i'll buy you a ticket and ship your car to Florida for you and stomp a hole in ya A$$ with my b16b in my cx and you better fix your check engine light cause you wont put not even a fender on me. Your boy cant drive or his engine is weak. But I gaurantee no check engine light having b16 gonna beat me unless its worked point blank.

Filliam H. Muffman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is all the [engine] differences...

Cylinder Head - Complete port & polish
Exhaust Valve Spring - High-lift, dual-layered spring
Sparkplug - High-heat-type #7 platinum plug
Pistons - High-compression, low-friction, custom pistons
Connecting Rod - High-output, high-durability, lightened, custom conrod
Engine Stiffener - Aluminum die-cast, high-durability, one-piece type
Crankshaft - Full-balancer, 8-weight, high-output, custom crankshaft
Inlet Valves - Lightened inlet valves
Inlet Valve Springs - High-lift, flat-surfaced, dual-layered spring
Camshaft - Wide-angled, high-lift, high-durability camshaft
Intake Manifold - High-RPM type.

liam


[Modified by liam821, 11:30 PM 2/4/2003]</TD></TR></TABLE>

all the info is right here, all you idiots can shut up and let this thread die now.

Mr Hammond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liam821 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is all the [engine] differences...

Cylinder Head - Complete port & polish
Exhaust Valve Spring - High-lift, dual-layered spring
Sparkplug - High-heat-type #7 platinum plug
Pistons - High-compression, low-friction, custom pistons
Connecting Rod - High-output, high-durability, lightened, custom conrod
Engine Stiffener - Aluminum die-cast, high-durability, one-piece type
Crankshaft - Full-balancer, 8-weight, high-output, custom crankshaft
Inlet Valves - Lightened inlet valves
Inlet Valve Springs - High-lift, flat-surfaced, dual-layered spring
Camshaft - Wide-angled, high-lift, high-durability camshaft
Intake Manifold - High-RPM type.

liam


[Modified by liam821, 11:30 PM 2/4/2003]</TD></TR></TABLE>

Easy there killer a lot of this is kinda nonsensish. The fact that it's an entirely differnent block casting was left out as well. It's not a B16/17A block at all.

Well let's see there's some VERY MILD bowl work and clean up work. FAR from a "complete port and polish". The plugs are actually one heat range colder then the B16A. The pistons aren't exactly "custom". The connecting rods are not "high-output" (not even sure what a high output rod is) they certainly aren't high durability anymore so then a regular OEM Honda rod. They are only lightened to match up with the heavier counterbalanced crank, and they aren't custom either. The crankshaft is an 8-weight counter balanced crank. What's with all this high output custom nonsense?

The question could have been simply answer with it is a destroked ITR motor. You take an ITR motor and put the B16 77.2mm crank in and the proper length rods and a different set of pistons and a 4-2-1 design manifold and that's pretty much it.

It's not really all it's cracked up to be. Yeah it's a great specific output motor that's greatly reliable in endurance racing, but when it comes right down to it, there are better options to be had.

GapxGuy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Easy there killer a lot of this is kinda nonsensish. The fact that it's an entirely differnent block casting was left out as well. It's not a B16/17A block at all.

Well let's see there's some VERY MILD bowl work and clean up work. FAR from a "complete port and polish". The plugs are actually one heat range colder then the B16A. The pistons aren't exactly "custom". The connecting rods are not "high-output" (not even sure what a high output rod is) they certainly aren't high durability anymore so then a regular OEM Honda rod. They are only lightened to match up with the heavier counterbalanced crank, and they aren't custom either. The crankshaft is an 8-weight counter balanced crank. What's with all this high output custom nonsense?

The question could have been simply answer with it is a destroked ITR motor. You take an ITR motor and put the B16 77.2mm crank in and the proper length rods and a different set of pistons and a 4-2-1 design manifold and that's pretty much it.

It's not really all it's cracked up to be. Yeah it's a great specific output motor that's greatly reliable in endurance racing, but when it comes right down to it, there are better options to be had.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Better revised.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's with all this high output custom nonsense?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe he majors in marketing?

japspec

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Easy there killer a lot of this is kinda nonsensish. The fact that it's an entirely differnent block casting was left out as well. It's not a B16/17A block at all.

Well let's see there's some VERY MILD bowl work and clean up work. FAR from a "complete port and polish". The plugs are actually one heat range colder then the B16A. The pistons aren't exactly "custom". The connecting rods are not "high-output" (not even sure what a high output rod is) they certainly aren't high durability anymore so then a regular OEM Honda rod. They are only lightened to match up with the heavier counterbalanced crank, and they aren't custom either. The crankshaft is an 8-weight counter balanced crank. What's with all this high output custom nonsense?

The question could have been simply answer with it is a destroked ITR motor. You take an ITR motor and put the B16 77.2mm crank in and the proper length rods and a different set of pistons and a 4-2-1 design manifold and that's pretty much it.

It's not really all it's cracked up to be. Yeah it's a great specific output motor that's greatly reliable in endurance racing, but when it comes right down to it, there are better options to be had.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well for the price its better than a us or jdm spec gsr stock for stock. Oh and the price of the ctr isnt 5000 and or even 4500 you can get them for the same price as a gsr swap if you look. I hate when people talk garbage about its not this its not that. I rarely see an option video with a damn sir-g being run on a track stock. Why cause its not all that stock. I will put money on the line half of all these b16b hater would probably get eaten up by a mildly built D-series motor. To all the haters dont be mad cause you couldn't find one for a good price. Dont hate congratulate.

bossman032

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japspec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well for the price its better than a us or jdm spec gsr stock for stock. Oh and the price of the ctr isnt 5000 and or even 4500 you can get them for the same price as a gsr swap if you look. I hate when people talk garbage about its not this its not that. I rarely see an option video with a damn sir-g being run on a track stock. Why cause its not all that stock. I will put money on the line half of all these b16b hater would probably get eaten up by a mildly built D-series motor. To all the haters dont be mad cause you couldn't find one for a good price. Dont hate congratulate. </TD></TR></TABLE>

b16b is great motor.


And remember you idiots if it anit a type R it aint a tight car.

KEEP IT IN YOUR HEAD

JDM_HondaGuy

aha bossman032 u got that from "the" song ...its an awesome song though

SOHC_DK.

Type AARRRRRRRR