Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks
07-29-2002, 04:58 PM
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TECH: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - DONE - no bs
Hello Forum. As this is my first post here, I thought I contribute something right off the back. I'm sure some of you have a leaking ABS accumulator (as I) and are scared sh!tless about the idea of shelling out $800 bucks to fix it. To get straight to the point, from trolling the integra forum, I've discovered some dude's recipe (BSQ) for fixing his ABS system RIGHT (no rigging) and I've compared methods and diagrams and it should translate right over to our cars. Check out this link and scroll down to the middle of the post. You'll see he talks about his 94-97 integra abs unit and the dealership fixing it under warranty. You'll also see he talks about fixing his wifes 96' Odessey and "how it had the same Accumulator".
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=205285
>Anyway, I took diagrams from an online Honda parts seller and right off the back, our Accord diagram and his integra diagram match exactly albeit the diagrams are rendered at different angles. They are apparently the exact same unit...makes sense since they are about the same years too.
The accord
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...T&catcgry5=ABS
The odyssey
[can't seem to get this to display correctly...goto the above website and check it for yourself]
Anyway, whay you'll notice is that the Odyssey's set-up is slightly different. Given that, and that the integra's and accord's ABS modulators are the same, the success in fixing the Odyssey's ABS modulator (since its even different) should give weight to the successful of replacing just the o-ring. Does that all make sense? I think this is a bon-a-fide $1.51 fix to this crappy @ss problem. Feedback?? (before i rip my modulator apart!).
regards,
RB
OTHER's Accord forum experience with this repair:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=761192
Modified by RotaryBzzz at 6:50 PM 2/14/2004
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=205285
>Anyway, I took diagrams from an online Honda parts seller and right off the back, our Accord diagram and his integra diagram match exactly albeit the diagrams are rendered at different angles. They are apparently the exact same unit...makes sense since they are about the same years too.
The accord
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...T&catcgry5=ABS
The odyssey
[can't seem to get this to display correctly...goto the above website and check it for yourself]
Anyway, whay you'll notice is that the Odyssey's set-up is slightly different. Given that, and that the integra's and accord's ABS modulators are the same, the success in fixing the Odyssey's ABS modulator (since its even different) should give weight to the successful of replacing just the o-ring. Does that all make sense? I think this is a bon-a-fide $1.51 fix to this crappy @ss problem. Feedback?? (before i rip my modulator apart!).
regards,
RB
OTHER's Accord forum experience with this repair:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=761192
Modified by RotaryBzzz at 6:50 PM 2/14/2004
07-29-2002, 05:20 PM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks
You may also want to check out service bulletin #96-050. I see the leaking modulator plugs alot more often than leaking accumulator o-rings.
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07-29-2002, 08:07 PM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (kazmans94cord)
mine leaks...how bout this...you do it first...and if it works i might do it as well.
07-29-2002, 09:31 PM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (greensleeper)
Oh sweet jesus. Have fun with that buddy. Remember to buy a tube of JB Weld to hold it all together for the drive to honda after you realize it was the the modulator plugs leaking not the accumalator seal. Best of luck and good tidings.
07-30-2002, 08:14 AM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (Chiovnidca)
---------
You may also want to check out service bulletin #96-050. I see the leaking modulator plugs alot more often than leaking accumulator o-rings.
---------
here is the line data....
97-011 FEB 97 Interior - Cracking Noise From the Door Armrest
94-029 NOV 96 Brakes - Fluid Leak (ABS Accumulator)
96-050 NOV 96 Brakes - Fluid Leak from the ABS Modulator
you said the modulator 'plugs' more often than the accumulator? As in crap in the modulator gumming it up?
[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 5:15 PM 7/30/2002]
You may also want to check out service bulletin #96-050. I see the leaking modulator plugs alot more often than leaking accumulator o-rings.
---------
here is the line data....
97-011 FEB 97 Interior - Cracking Noise From the Door Armrest
94-029 NOV 96 Brakes - Fluid Leak (ABS Accumulator)
96-050 NOV 96 Brakes - Fluid Leak from the ABS Modulator
you said the modulator 'plugs' more often than the accumulator? As in crap in the modulator gumming it up?
[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 5:15 PM 7/30/2002]
07-30-2002, 08:30 AM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (RotaryBzzz)
97-011 FEB 97 Interior - Cracking Noise From the Door Armrest
07-30-2002, 08:50 AM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (DunReit)
97-011 FEB 97 Interior - Cracking Noise From the Door Armrest
Hmmm... I never realized this was a service bulliten... That noise has annoyed me for years...
Hmmm... I never realized this was a service bulliten... That noise has annoyed me for years...
I had another solution to fix my ABS system. It's completely free... I gutted it.
07-30-2002, 09:52 AM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (DunReit)
97-011 FEB 97 Interior - Cracking Noise From the Door Armrest
Hmmm... I never realized this was a service bulliten... That noise has annoyed me for years...
Hmmm... I never realized this was a service bulliten... That noise has annoyed me for years...
07-30-2002, 02:09 PM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (RotaryBzzz)
you said the modulator 'plugs' more often than the accumulator? As in crap in the modulator gumming it up?
08-14-2002, 04:36 PM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (Chiovnidca)
Up 2x. Anyone have the aforementioned bulletin? I'm attempting this fix this weekend. Have the (tiny) O-ring in hand...really did cost only $1.51 at Goudy Honda but had to have it ordered (FYI - it took 2 days for them to get it). Individually packaged...made in Japan.
Observing my leaking ABS reservior, it took about 14-15 days for it to empty completely. I noticed toward the last 2 days, the rate at which fluid exited the system (a.k.a. looking at the drips under my car) seemed to increase a lot. I'm assuming cause of more blow-by (greater psi from modulator trying to pressurize/less fluid present)
I suppose if this doesn't fix it, I'm only out $1.51, some time and some brake fluid... will keep ya'll posted...
[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 5:29 PM 8/15/2002]
Observing my leaking ABS reservior, it took about 14-15 days for it to empty completely. I noticed toward the last 2 days, the rate at which fluid exited the system (a.k.a. looking at the drips under my car) seemed to increase a lot. I'm assuming cause of more blow-by (greater psi from modulator trying to pressurize/less fluid present)
I suppose if this doesn't fix it, I'm only out $1.51, some time and some brake fluid... will keep ya'll posted...
[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 5:29 PM 8/15/2002]
08-19-2002, 08:46 PM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (RotaryBzzz)
Ok. So did the fix this weekend. Very-very gratifying and straightforward. Checking Monday night...no leaks that I can detect 48 hours later. Looks good and dry and no apparent fluid leakage from the accumulator/unit.
Tools needed: TORQUE WRENCH, 10mm flare nut wrench, 10mm open/closed ender, big bottle of Valvoline SynPower Dot 3/4 brake fluid, arrowhead water bottle (empty and dry of course), 8 inches of clear/clean aquarium tubing, new $1.51 Honda O-ring, torque wrench (for the wheels), metric socket/rachet set. Loosey head sockey extension
(not exactly need but will make life a whole lot easier with one of the 12mm brachet bolts).
These are my observations in the approximately 3 hours it took me to do this.
1) First off, there is no procedure for removing the unit in the Haynes manual. But don't let that dissuade you. It's easy - four 12mm bolts are all that connect the unit brackets to the unibody. Started by disconnecting the 6 brake lines with the flare nut wrench. Don't even try it without this wrench cause you might screw up the nuts. Be ready for brake fluid to start seeping out...slowly though. Then disconneted the 4 12mm bolts...good clearance/easy...used an 8inch extension on some of them. You will need to unbracket the windshield filler tube and move aside the Powersteering pump reservior for max clearance (esp. for loosening the brake lines).
2) Removing the unit...took some manuvering but was doable once the windshied filler and PS bottle was moved aside. Here, it helps to call your friend/brother and say "hey-hold that". Was careful not to torgue the ABS reservior/ very-very gingerly removed the unit. Kind of a heavy mo'fo...about 20 lbs...make sure to not hold it by the reservior or the accumulator...
3) Once the unit itself was out, inspecting showed evidence of old fluid making crud tracks away from the accumulator ABS cylinder base. Looking at the bottom of the unit was the 4 (?) plugs that were spoken of earlier. Here, it did not seem like anything was leaking (but time will tell!).
4) Removed two 10mm nuts at the base of the unit; be prepared for a little bit of brake fluid spray from the cylinder depressurizing...caught me offgaurd! Anyway, two bolts came off easy enough.
5) Inspecting the potentially offending o-ring: visually was not too different from the new one but feeling it in your fingers, was very evident it is not as spring or thick as the new one: a likely culprit. I took it off with a dental pick and easily slide on the new one. Cleaned all contact surfaces and reassembled unit. Used slightly firmer than 'wrist' tight.
6) Installation was the reverse of removal - YOU MUST TORQUE EVERYTHING TO SPEC OR YOU WILL LEAK - SEE A TSB LINK in later threads to FIND THE SPECS; reconnecting those brake lines took a while though...you can play with them front and back though so don't be afraid to yank them a bit (gently!) to get the right orientation into the ABS unit. Tightened lines firmly but only 'wrist' tight: no need for He-man here.
7) Bled the ABS unit. Then bled the brake lines following the RR, LF, RF, LR order. Then bled the ABS unit again (seemed to help sponginess for some reason!).
8) Test drove and then carefully hosed out the ABS unit area with a light spray of water to remove all that dripped brake fluid. I had used a rag to catch most seepage while i was working on the unit.
And that was it! Pretty straightforward! Just be careful! If you can bleed brakes, you can do this.... sorry about no pics, digi cam ran out of juice....
[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 3:16 PM 12/28/2002]
Tools needed: TORQUE WRENCH, 10mm flare nut wrench, 10mm open/closed ender, big bottle of Valvoline SynPower Dot 3/4 brake fluid, arrowhead water bottle (empty and dry of course), 8 inches of clear/clean aquarium tubing, new $1.51 Honda O-ring, torque wrench (for the wheels), metric socket/rachet set. Loosey head sockey extension
(not exactly need but will make life a whole lot easier with one of the 12mm brachet bolts).
These are my observations in the approximately 3 hours it took me to do this.
1) First off, there is no procedure for removing the unit in the Haynes manual. But don't let that dissuade you. It's easy - four 12mm bolts are all that connect the unit brackets to the unibody. Started by disconnecting the 6 brake lines with the flare nut wrench. Don't even try it without this wrench cause you might screw up the nuts. Be ready for brake fluid to start seeping out...slowly though. Then disconneted the 4 12mm bolts...good clearance/easy...used an 8inch extension on some of them. You will need to unbracket the windshield filler tube and move aside the Powersteering pump reservior for max clearance (esp. for loosening the brake lines).
2) Removing the unit...took some manuvering but was doable once the windshied filler and PS bottle was moved aside. Here, it helps to call your friend/brother and say "hey-hold that". Was careful not to torgue the ABS reservior/ very-very gingerly removed the unit. Kind of a heavy mo'fo...about 20 lbs...make sure to not hold it by the reservior or the accumulator...
3) Once the unit itself was out, inspecting showed evidence of old fluid making crud tracks away from the accumulator ABS cylinder base. Looking at the bottom of the unit was the 4 (?) plugs that were spoken of earlier. Here, it did not seem like anything was leaking (but time will tell!).
4) Removed two 10mm nuts at the base of the unit; be prepared for a little bit of brake fluid spray from the cylinder depressurizing...caught me offgaurd! Anyway, two bolts came off easy enough.
5) Inspecting the potentially offending o-ring: visually was not too different from the new one but feeling it in your fingers, was very evident it is not as spring or thick as the new one: a likely culprit. I took it off with a dental pick and easily slide on the new one. Cleaned all contact surfaces and reassembled unit. Used slightly firmer than 'wrist' tight.
6) Installation was the reverse of removal - YOU MUST TORQUE EVERYTHING TO SPEC OR YOU WILL LEAK - SEE A TSB LINK in later threads to FIND THE SPECS; reconnecting those brake lines took a while though...you can play with them front and back though so don't be afraid to yank them a bit (gently!) to get the right orientation into the ABS unit. Tightened lines firmly but only 'wrist' tight: no need for He-man here.
7) Bled the ABS unit. Then bled the brake lines following the RR, LF, RF, LR order. Then bled the ABS unit again (seemed to help sponginess for some reason!).
8) Test drove and then carefully hosed out the ABS unit area with a light spray of water to remove all that dripped brake fluid. I had used a rag to catch most seepage while i was working on the unit.
And that was it! Pretty straightforward! Just be careful! If you can bleed brakes, you can do this.... sorry about no pics, digi cam ran out of juice....
[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 3:16 PM 12/28/2002]
08-25-2002, 10:06 AM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (kazmans94cord)
still havent sold your car!!!!!?
ill give a 500 bucks for it.... and maybe a RICERS SUCK sticker....
i think its well worth it for the sticker...
jon
ill give a 500 bucks for it.... and maybe a RICERS SUCK sticker....
i think its well worth it for the sticker...
jon
08-26-2002, 02:00 PM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (kazmans94cord)
so it actually worked eh?? hmm...i might have to try it b4 i sell my car...
08-29-2002, 07:17 AM
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Re: Fix your ABS system for $1.51 - no gimmicks (kazmans94cord)
Sorry I'm new to this forum.
Our 94 Accord has been making this buzzing noise after it is started, and once it stops the ABS light comes on. Is this problem the ABS modulator problem described? I just pulled the ABS relay to stop the whole system from running. But I'd like to get it working so the light goes off.
Thanks,
Rob
Our 94 Accord has been making this buzzing noise after it is started, and once it stops the ABS light comes on. Is this problem the ABS modulator problem described? I just pulled the ABS relay to stop the whole system from running. But I'd like to get it working so the light goes off.
Thanks,
Rob