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check engone light leak in canister

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Old 02-27-2005, 08:23 PM
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Default check engone light leak in canister

well i went to autozone about a few months ago n they pulled a code for my check engone light it was "EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)
" i looked it up online. iv been driving around for a few months like that cuz it wasnt a mechanical problem,.. anyways i noticed that my mpg went down a lil,its been snowy here so it have been driving a little bit different. could it be affecting my milage? i got 1more o2 th replace and that is this weeknd (after cat). you dont htink that code is thrown by a bad o2 (or is thata separate code) or is there an actual leak some where in the system.
thanks for the help
98 accord ex
140k
Old 02-28-2005, 09:23 AM
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Default Re: check engone light leak in canister (SIMATIC)

A bad O2 sensor has it's own separate code.

You get P1457, right? That can be an actual leak in the canister, or any of several hoses. Maybe more popular, is any of several solenoid valves is bad.

Scroll down thru this thread, I posted some details about what to check.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=748876
Old 02-28-2005, 03:28 PM
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Default Re: check engone light leak in canister (JimBlake)

thanks jim, i was wondering how much i think a job liek this would cost, depending on the problem u have a range? i work at a lexus dealership so im bringin the car on t he lift this weekend to change my 02 senosr, and im gona look at all the hoses to see it there are any holes...maybe i can get one of the mecchanics to gimme a hand but there usually busy i dont wana bother them...thanks for the info. is there a common part that usually fails, or do they vary? thanks

this wont effect gas milage at all?


Modified by SIMATIC at 12:57 AM 3/1/2005
Old 03-01-2005, 04:01 AM
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Default Re: check engone light leak in canister (SIMATIC)

Mine was the EVAP vent-shut valve, & that seems to be a popular one to fail.

The EVAP canister is roughly underneath the right-rear seat, it's #6 here. The vent-shut valve is #8, attached to the outboard end of the canister with a couple phillips screws.

No guarantees, but if you wanna take the chance, check that one out first. Mine was corroded so when I applied battery voltage it didn't even click.

So you work at a dealer but I take it you're not a tech? Mostly the early checks in the procedure are pretty easy, they're OK to DIY if you know how to use a MityVac & make up a couple jumper wires. If you get far enough so you have to drop the gas tank, then you're in a better position than me to find out what it'll cost for the shop to do it.
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