crzyfool24

First off I have a 92 Civic Hatch SI (d16z6)
I just got a new clutch the other day and I was thinkin....

I have a stock flywheel which weighs heavy as hell. Well since I got a new clutch I might as well get a new flywheel too right?
Well I was told 2 different things of what I should do....
1)Get a new lightened flywheel
or
2)Shave stock flywheel to make it lighter and save the money.

What would you guys/gals reccomand?
Thanks for the help

******By the way - I also posted this topic in the Tech forum but thought I would put it here too since you guys might have the same car as me! Thanks*********

@ries

Buy a new one.

Xsi

Depends on your budget and what your plans for the car are.
I got mine lightened and haven't had any problems but if I did it again I'd pay the extra for a new one.

crzyfool24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depends on your budget and what your plans for the car are.
I got mine lightened and haven't had any problems but if I did it again I'd pay the extra for a new one.</TD></TR></TABLE>


How much lbs did they take off your flywheel? If you were to do it again, why would you buy a new one? Thanks for the input

Evil_Pull

are lighter flywheels good for turbo or N/A? I heard ok w/ turbo stay away if you have NA built motor.

Xsi

I got 1.5 KG taken off mine 8KG-&gt;6.5KG, they actually did a really got job with it.
I would have liked a ligher flywheel, the trouble is with the stock flywheel you get to a point where lightening it further will adversely effect strength. (and my car is JDM RHD so my ankles are right behind the flywheel)
So an aftermarket flywheel can be made to be lighter while still retaining strength.

sinister6

a new one.. but those cost a lot..

crzyfool24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would have liked a ligher flywheel, the trouble is with the stock flywheel you get to a point where lightening it further will adversely effect strength. So an aftermarket flywheel can be made to be lighter while still retaining strength.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Good point.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a new one.. but those cost a lot..</TD></TR></TABLE>

They dont cost that much. A couple hundred for a ACT. It's always good to know someone tho to get one cheaper

Option

I would just go ahead spend the extra few bucks and buy an aftermarket one.

I reccomend Fidanza.

crzyfool24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Option &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would just go ahead spend the extra few bucks and buy an aftermarket one.

I reccomend Fidanza.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know where I can find a Fidanza flywheel? Have a link? Thanks.

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evil_Pull &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are lighter flywheels good for turbo or N/A? I heard ok w/ turbo stay away if you have NA built motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It doesn't matter. A lighter flywheel will have a positive affect regardless of aspiration.

HomicidalHatchBack

clutchmasters 8lb. if its a daily driver, but definetly dont shave the old one

Kendall

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Option &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would just go ahead spend the extra few bucks and buy an aftermarket one.

I reccomend Fidanza.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My Fidanza weighed just under 7 lbs, and was all sorts of fun in a daily driven car. Don't let anyone try and tell you that light flywheels are bad, ever.

Jay__Capz

Definatley buy a new one

boostedcivicsir

lightened stock flywheels arent sfi approved. and i would be affraid of them coming apart. go with any sfi approved aluminum flywheel. it will be a better buy.

crzyfool24

Cool, Thanks for the input guys.
Looks likes im gonna go searchin for a new flywheel!

Thanks for the people who added stupid remarks in the open poll. I made it open incase you guys had a recomandation, not to be some immature smart ***.

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lightened stock flywheels arent sfi approved. and i would be affraid of them coming apart. go with any sfi approved aluminum flywheel. it will be a better buy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Standard stock flywheels aren't SFI approved either

You have three options:

1. Aftermarket

2. Lightened stock Flywheel. ( I lightened mine myself to 12.5#. If it's done right, it will be fine )

3. Civic HF or CX Flywheel. ('90 and up are about three pounds lighter than your stock flywheel)

dremmel

for a decent daily driver, just have it lightened about 1lb or 1.5 . -3lbs is too much i found out, it lags a lil from not having as much mass/inertia when starting out in 1rst.

jdmsiR20

all depends on your situation...

i voted for stock lightened one.... i've had one in my jdm d15b for about a month and a half now, mated with an exedy stage two....

i beat on it all the time, and within the last week i've been practicing my launching... so figure about 10-15 launches alone in the past week....


its a stock z6 flywheel, lightened from ~18lbs to 13.5lbs.... measured on my scale at work (scale used to weigh patients)... revs quick, but i think i would have preferred an even lighter unit, which is just asking for trouble on a stock unit.

now that i have a little more money, i think i would buy a new one... but for the price it costs to shave one down, you cant beat it

and pics are always good :
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6ajk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you can certinly go too far when lightening a flywheel, but from what I have seen, as in JDM ETi (our VX) and ITR/CTR flywheel you can safely shave off about 5lbs with no issues to the structural integrity, as longest its balanced and done right. mild applications under 200whp with mild clutches and easy launches will not expirance any issues. if you venture over the 200whp and run a unsprung disc and slicks - extra insurance of a cromoly or aluminum unit buys you a peace of mind.

I personally have had about 10 different flywheels from stock 17lbs to 7lbs aluminums and cromoly units. and have found that for the $80 spent on shaving and balancing the stock unit on mild applications yields - its defintly money well spent.

12.5lbs ITR unit - this one was very well done and clean with strenth


my 10.5lbs GSR unit as you can see the machinist went a little on the far aside had to weld the starter ring to flywheel. little scary but worked well for now 2 years.


13.5lbs d-series unit, also very well done and clean


</TD></TR></TABLE>

source: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=911002
search for: "lightened flywheel" in archive

crzyfool24

How much did you pay to machine the flywheel?

crzyfool24

O 'yeah - Thanks for the link

HamandEGgs

I REALLY wouldn't recommend getting your stock flywheel lightened, especially with you owning a '92 (which probably has a lot of miles). At that age/mileage, you'll probably find that when you remove the OEM flywheel, that there will be several stress cracks in it already. Assuming you can find a machinist to do the work, lightening it will only make these cracks weaker and you run the risk of a major failure.

I really recommend a good-quality aftermarket one like the Fidanza unit. They're well built, and a good weight to go with. I'd also recommend actually staying somewhere around 9 pounds, since ultra-light flywheels will give you quite a bit of gear noise and vibration.

You'll definitely notice the difference in how the engine revs, though you won't notice any power gains (well, maybe 1hp). The big difference you'll find is that when you blip the throttle (like heel-toe shifting), it'll be much easier to match revs and won't take nearly as long to get to the proper shift point.

jdmsiR20

^ yeah.... the comment about age, abuse and stress cracks is reasonable..

if you got the money, definitely buy a new one. i'm the type to do it right the first time, and i still felt compelled to buy the unit i got.

i bought the exedy II and lightened flywheel both for $250...

i believe it costs under $100 to get it machined. think about it, you're halfway there to a new one. get the 9lb. unit

Jim Truett

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamandEGgs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At that age/mileage, you'll probably find that when you remove the OEM flywheel, that there will be several stress cracks in it already. Assuming you can find a machinist to do the work, lightening it will only make these cracks weaker and you run the risk of a major failure.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is a very good point. I was careful to select a crack-free unit to lighten for my turbo D15B. It will be more of a factor if you are looking to go less than 12.5 pounds.

crzyfool24

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamandEGgs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I REALLY wouldn't recommend getting your stock flywheel lightened, especially with you owning a '92 (which probably has a lot of miles). At that age/mileage, you'll probably find that when you remove the OEM flywheel, that there will be several stress cracks in it already. Assuming you can find a machinist to do the work, lightening it will only make these cracks weaker and you run the risk of a major failure.

I really recommend a good-quality aftermarket one like the Fidanza unit. They're well built, and a good weight to go with. I'd also recommend actually staying somewhere around 9 pounds, since ultra-light flywheels will give you quite a bit of gear noise and vibration.

You'll definitely notice the difference in how the engine revs, though you won't notice any power gains (well, maybe 1hp). The big difference you'll find is that when you blip the throttle (like heel-toe shifting), it'll be much easier to match revs and won't take nearly as long to get to the proper shift point.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good info! By the way, where can I get a Fidanza flywheel? Do you have a link?