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I forgot to grab a pic of the interior before closing it up. But I added a very small bead of High-Temp RTV to the VC side of the Jam nuts and to the entire contact point of the baffle plate and VC before tightening it all down
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2016/11/17 16:56:01
Ready to mount the fittings and replace the baffle plate
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2016/11/17 16:55:34
Close-up
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2016/11/17 16:55:09
Tapping the holes...
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2016/11/17 16:54:47
Taped off the bit a little over a 1/2in deep so not to drill or tap too deep
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2016/11/17 16:54:27
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2016/11/17 16:53:17
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2016/11/17 16:52:54
Here you can see they now sit flush
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2016/11/17 16:52:33
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2016/11/17 16:51:08
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2016/11/17 16:50:53
Jam nuts also needed to be modified in order to accommodate the interior angles of the VC
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2016/11/17 16:50:37
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2016/11/17 16:49:44
Advertisement
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2016/11/17 16:49:36
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2016/11/17 16:49:29
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2016/11/17 16:49:20
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2016/11/17 16:49:10
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2016/11/17 16:49:00
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2016/11/17 16:48:50
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2016/11/17 16:48:40
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2016/11/17 16:48:27
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2016/11/17 16:47:57
last spot.
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2016/11/17 16:45:30
cont...
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2016/11/17 16:45:11
In this section (same chamber as oem PCV valve) there was alot of material to remove. This and the next 2 pics show the areas that needed to be addressed....
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2016/11/17 16:44:54
Die grinder removing material to make room for the jam nuts... this section was easy only one nub to remove.
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2016/11/17 16:44:37
Reference pic to show holes for fittings vs holes in baffle plate VERY IMPORTANT: you can not put the fittings in the same chambers that the holes in the baffle plate feed into... otherwise you'll just be blowing oil out of your VC
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2016/11/17 16:44:15
7/8in hole bit to drill out the holes for the -AN fittings
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2016/11/17 16:43:52
Die grinder w/sanding disc to remove the rivets on baffle plate
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2016/11/17 16:43:35
7/8-14 aluminum jam nuts
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2016/11/17 16:40:11
-10AN to 7/8-14 fuel fitting with rubber O-rings (could've gone smaller on the 7/8 side but wanted to be sure of full -10AN flow)
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2016/11/17 16:39:56
3/8in screws for the baffle plate
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2016/11/17 16:39:38
10-24 tap for replacing the baffle plate
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2016/11/17 16:39:25
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