civek97

Hey all. So, can some please check my math? This is my first time buying adapters/spacers and I want to make sure before I give the custom order a go, that it's correct.

My stock wheel setup:
215/45/17 tire
17x7
+45
5x114.3
64.1mm hub bore

The new wheel setup:
225/40/18 tire
18x8.5
+36
5x120
75mm hub bore

​​To answer the inevitable, why would I do that, frankly, I got a deal on a set of RE wheels that I wasn't passing up. Like, $700. From Japan. With minimal paint flake. And brand new tires.

Sooooo...The wheel adapters will correct both the bolt pattern and hub bore. But my question is the offset. I know the new wheels will be 15mm closer to the suspension. What thickness should the adapter be to move the wheel so the outside edge is half-inch past the fenders? Just 1", correct?

The answer to your next question is, I have fender flares and the wheel looks weird not flush to the flares.

Thanks all!

2LEM1

iTrader: (1)

With NO spacer -

This new wheel will have an inner rim which is 10.1mm closer to the suspension strut.
The outer rim will poke out 28.1mm more than before.

You're already 1.1" farther out that the wheels you have now, a 1" spacer will push it out over 2".

ProTip - Those wheels don't fit.

civek97

I know they don't fit. But to each his own. Thank you for the help.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

Black magic? Its measurements and mathematics. Nothing "exotic" about it, to be honest.

Since you didn't mention what kind of clearance you have at the moment, its impossible to make any sort of judgment as to what kind of spacers you could use to achieve the fitment you're looking for.

civek97

Eh. I'm an infrastructure engineer. Talk to me about renewable energy, or algorithms for traffic planning all day. Talk to me about offsets and suddenly I'm like "whutt?" Lol

I understand the basics of it, but when I'm trying to plan for future upgrades with measurements now, I always find I'm off by almost a half inch. Right now I'm just a fairly stock '10 FA5. stock wheels and stock brakes. I'll get spoke-to-brake clearance when I go on my lunch today. It was too dark to eyeball it this morning.

But if I've measured correctly, I'm going to be using a 15mm spacer, pushing the wheels out 1.7" vs the full 2". I have, again, if I measured correctly, 15mm from rim to the flush line of the fender, if that makes sense.

civek97

Just an update on this situation:

So...everything worked out well. The front's were perfect. The rears are less than 1" past the fender, partially corrected by fender rolling to just over 1/2". The Mugen RR-style flares are 1/2" thick to compensate. My next step is the drop but for now, I'm happy.

In case anyone is wondering, the wheels are Rays Homura 2x7. The 114.3x5s were 19's but I didn't wanna go that big, so I got the 18s. Problem is, they were 3 series specific. Brand new with the comparable Goodyear tires = $2,604.

I bought them gently used, no bends, no curb rash and like 3 tiny paint chips, for $800 shipped from Japan, including brand new Goodyear tires. The $240 custom adapters were 114.3x5 to 120x5, 64.1mm ID hub centric to the car, 75mm OD hub centric to the wheel. There is zero vibration during driving. Total spent = $1,040.

Maybe doing it this way wasn't the "easy" way that everybody says it should be. But the $1,564 just paid for my header, so I'm happy. Plus for a daily driver the wheels look good I have a set of 18" Work CR Kai in correct PCD for autocross ($600 shipped from Japan).

DumpdEJ6

Pics or it didn't happen.