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Hey guys I'm looking into changing the wheel and tire setup on my 99 turbo b20v db7 lowered on tein street basics, it is my daily driver. I currently have the motor out and the knuckles are removed for a refresh, otherwise I would measure clearances myself. my curent wheel and tire setup is 15x8 +0 with 195/45r15 toyo t1r tires, after going boost from high compression na this setup will not work. the new paln is to change wheels and tires altogether , konig dekagram in 15x9 +35et with 205/50r15 toyo r888r tires from my calculations i will have 47.7mm less clearance on the inside of the wheel. Does anyone no if there is enough space to run a high offset 9' wheel ona dc or db platform? my concern is that the wheel will hit the knuckle as it swoops up to meet the uca. Thanks in advance.
images are from the switch over from na to boost.
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There is no need for such a wide wheel, it looks ghetto, weighs more, and stretches that 205 tire. You can run a 15x7 with +35 to +45 offset just fine with a 225, maybe even 235 wide tire will just a little roll and pull on the fenders.
Thank you for the insight guys. I am definitely looking to clean up the wheel set up for more function, upon research with the opinions and facts stated I have come across a more fitting solution. Konig offers their flow forged "dail in" in a 15x8 +25, this would serve two functional purposes as it would 1 inset the wheel allowing for a larger tire more usable tire in comparission to the current 195/45 15 as recomened and cleaning up the look of the setup; 2 allow a more fitting alignment for the purpose of the car. I will probabobly opting for a 205/50 15 r888r all around as low as possible with reasonable camber in the range of negative one to negative two degrees given the 25 et as a 35 et is only offered in different style wheel with an 8.5" width. I will need to further asses the car once i get the knuckles back on before making a definite choice on 15x8 or 15x7 as the offsets offered are 25 and 35 respectively.
I'm not sure of the exact specs of the crx above but this is silmilar to what i want to acheive . the wheels are offered in 7,8 and 9 inch widths with 25,25,35 as respective offsets. Thanks again for your insight gentlemen.
Thank you for the linked video. I noticed in the video he mentioned that they were the 15x9 offering. I took advantage of having new years off and did some measuring of my current wheels. The casting shows 15x8 +0 but upon measuring the wheel it appears to be 15x9 +0, i measured front spacing and backspacing both measuring 4.5".
Taking that in to consideration with the video if my current wheels are indeed 15x9 in comparrision the the specs of a factory ls mesh wheel (15x6 +45) there is little room for inset. I have done a few calculations using the ls mesh as a control, the orange value. If my current wheels are 15x9 against the ls mesh If my current wheels are 15x8 against the ls mesh recomended 15x7 +35 against the ls mesh konig dail in in 15x8 +25 against ls mesh curent wheels in 15x8+0 against the konig 15x8+25
I'm having a hard time understanding your apparent desire for low offset, wider rims when you mention wanting the most functionality from the setup. You still only want a 205 tire, which is about square with a 7" wide wheel. There is no point in running anything wider than 7" with only a 205 tire. I have 225's on 6.5" wide wheels and they work perfectly fine, with less weight.
Also, a wider offset doesn't help you, other than making it harder to fit a wider tire because your fenders will rub.
So what do you really want, a slammed and stanced ride with stretched tires? Or a functional setup.
I'm having a hard time understanding your apparent desire for low offset, wider rims when you mention wanting the most functionality from the setup. You still only want a 205 tire, which is about square with a 7" wide wheel. There is no point in running anything wider than 7" with only a 205 tire. I have 225's on 6.5" wide wheels and they work perfectly fine, with less weight.
Also, a wider offset doesn't help you, other than making it harder to fit a wider tire because your fenders will rub.
So what do you really want, a slammed and stanced ride with stretched tires? Or a functional setup.
I want a lowered functional set up. I believe you missunderstood my previous response. the 15x8 +0 wheels i currently have are going bye bye, which is why i am looking at offerings by koinig in the 15*8 and 15*9 with +25 or +35 respectively. Thus getting rid of the low offset wheels altogether tucking to wheel in to fit a more useable tire while maximizing track width. toyo offers a 225/45 r15 r888r which with your recomendation of a thinner wheel I have looked into. I used my measurements to guage clearance with a wheel calculator but the wheel casting spec doesnt match my physical measurements which is why I used the ls mesh specs as a base of comparrison in the visual calulations above . Sorry if I was unclear throughout that posting.
I used my measurements to guage clearance with a wheel calculator but the wheel casting spec doesnt match my physical measurements which is why I used the ls mesh specs as a base of comparrison in the visual calulations above.
Wheel widths are measured from the inside edge to inside edge of where the tire bead seats. Not outside dimensions. On our road race EG hatchback we run 15x8 Jongbloed +36 wheels with 225/45/15 Hankook RS-4's. Fenders have been rolled for clearance.
Wheel widths are measured from the inside edge to inside edge of where the tire bead seats. Not outside dimensions. On our road race EG hatchback we run 15x8 Jongbloed +36 wheels with 225/45/15 Hankook RS-4's. Fenders have been rolled for clearance.
This is true. I remember being thrown for a loop when trying to match up tire section widths to wheel widths. Come to find out, the outer edge of the lip of the wheel is about 1" wider than it's marketed width. So an 8" section width tire will match up squarely to a 7" wide wheel.
Thank you for your insight gentlemen. I contacted my local discount tire to order the konig dail in in 15x8 +25 to find they are no longer in production :/ .In search of wheels close to those specs I came across the visually apealing xxr 557 offered in a 15x8 +20. I"m going to grab these if they are not backorder and pair them with the toyo proxes r1r in a 205/50 15, being my prefered daily driver these tires show to have more wet grip with equal dry traction to the r888r tire on toyos website not acounting for the possible difference in compound yeilding the r1r a 200aa a utqg and the r888r a 100aa a utqg. With the 20 offest I can raise the car with tire sidewall and well as adjust the coilover higher and remove some of the negative camber to hopefully yeild a larger more usefull contact patch in comnparisson to my current wheel and tire. My arches are rolled and pulled so I think this will work out great. Thanks again gentlmen, I believe I have decided upon a set up.
The XXR's are heavy, they are still too wide for the tire and your offset is too low. You are doing nothing to help the performance of the car, but will manage to have stretched and stanced look. Enjoy
The XXR's are heavy, they are still too wide for the tire and your offset is too low. You are doing nothing to help the performance of the car, but will manage to have stretched and stanced look. Enjoy
I don't see any lighter wheels with specs +30 or +35 that appeal to me. I still want to enjoy my car visually. Measuring the poke of the current wheel and tire the +20 will pull the wheels in 8/10ths of an inch placing it within the pulled wheel arches, because the wheels are not higher offset I will use the stretch to compensate for the wheels moving into the well under suspension compression. The wheel purtrudes ½" outside the wheel well
If anyone has recommendations for wheels with higher offset they find apealing I am open to them. I think reducing camber and adding more contact patch that there is some porformance to be gained. In comparison to a 195/45 the 205/50 has less stretch, it's not a huge difference but it's still more tire on the ground. Also being primarily a street car 2x0 I'm not looking for every once of savings in wheel weight, I do agree that the xxrs are heavy in comparison to other offerings on the market but as stated earlier I personally have not found any offerings that are visually appealing and performance oriented(in terms of weight). Thus the reason I am trying to compromise with the xxr wheel and tire combination
As a reference the Konig dail in I originally wanted to go to with in 15x8 +25 weighs in at 12.25lbs and the xxr 557 in 15x8 +20 weighs in at 15.1lbs. I'm not sure that's enough weight difference to stress about.
Not intending to bash your choices, they are what they are. You had started out asking for opinions to make the wheel and tire setup more functional for a turbo car though, but you still went for what was more visually appealing to you, and there's nothing wrong with that....
That said, what you have now is slightly better than what you had before. The 205 vs 195 width really isn't going to make any difference, but the wheel offset and width is a little more practical. Those XXR's are lighter than I would have expected too.
As a reference the Konig dail in I originally wanted to go to with in 15x8 +25 weighs in at 12.25lbs and the xxr 557 in 15x8 +20 weighs in at 15.1lbs. I'm not sure that's enough weight difference to stress about.
You'd be amazed what 3 lbs of unsprung weight and rotational mass will do to a car's performance. It can be more impactful then losing weight on the flywheel.
As for stating "enjoying your car visually", you may not want to follow up with a photo where you can visibly see holes from what looks to be screws and destroyed body lines. But, I guess looks are subjective.
You'd be amazed what 3 lbs of unsprung weight and rotational mass will do to a car's performance. It can be more impactful then losing weight on the flywheel.
As for stating "enjoying your car visually", you may not want to follow up with a photo where you can visibly see holes from what looks to be screws and destroyed body lines. But, I guess looks are subjective.
Thank you for you insight, I will check out the link. Sadly as far as the holes go it was done but the previous owner of the car. When I picked up the shell it had been sitting abandoned for 5 years. I don't expect a perfect show car, sometime in the future I will address the holes but for now I'm not worried about them.
949 6ULs come in all kinds of useful sizes for our cars. The 15x8 +36 is just about perfect in my opinion, all the wheel you can get under your fenders without any poke... Just a little rolling in the rear (00 Civic sedan). Works fine with a 205 tire too, with no discernible stretching on my Dunlop Star Specs. They are nice and light at 11.6lbs, and look pretty damn nice.
949 6ULs come in all kinds of useful sizes for our cars. The 15x8 +36 is just about perfect in my opinion, all the wheel you can get under your fenders without any poke... Just a little rolling in the rear (00 Civic sedan). Works fine with a 205 tire too, with no discernible stretching on my Dunlop Star Specs. They are nice and light at 11.6lbs, and look pretty damn nice.
I'd be careful with them though, they are designed specifically to fit Miatas. I had them on my CRX when I bought it and they fit like crap, so I got rid of them. Needed a spacer to clear the front brakes, and they were too low of offset in my opinion. Caused lots of rub if I lowered the car to less than 2 finger gap.
They sell the correct hub rings and clear my ITR sized brakes perfectly with no spacers. +36 is a totally reasonable offset but is about as high as you can go with an 8” wheel. If you use the same calculator as the OP you’ll see that the tire ends up in a pretty reasonable location compared to stock, so they don’t produce some of the ill handling effects that come with a super low offset (>12mm less than stock) setup. As I remember though, there was definitely a bit less outer clearance on the older chassis, so I don’t doubt your issues on a CRX.
Yeah, I'm sure they fit better on an Integra chassis. The brake clearance was the main reason I got rid of them, because I had to run wheel spacers making them fit even worse. I have Legend dual piston brakes.
It's been a while guys but I pulled the trigger on a setup.
Konig hypergrams in 15x8 +25 ~13lbs per wheel
Nitto nt05 205 50 15 due to time constraints ( 🤷🏽*♂️ I was in a pinch) couldn't wait for toyos to arrive.
There is plenty of clearance as you can see from the images. The nitto tires grip ok cold but great when warm. Thank you to everyone that chimed in with an opinion or insight. I will be starting a post in the forced induction section of my setup in days to come so you may see the overall picture of the cars setup.
Thread is a few months old but oh well and I know OP bought some 8.5 Hypergrams already. But I'll leave this here for the sake of tech of fitting 9's to our cars. Let's figure most 88-00 Hondas have similar inner clearance (Certain spindles and trailing arms might give more or less leeway on offsets used) and a DC probably has more fender clearance than my car. So with that said, I run 15x9 +36 with a 10mm spacer on my CRX with a 225/45 Rival S 1.5. It required a slight pull and about -3 degrees of camber at the ride height I run. You can make it work with an 8mm spacer if you grind down the casting flash marks on the spindle.
In the rear I run a 15x8 +36 with the same tire in a 205/50. It required a flat roll and I run -2.5 degrees of camber. It's close enough that I might have to run a 3mm spacer to fit R7's in the same size. Some SMF guys are getting 9's in the back but at that point you'll have to notch trailing arms and pull your rear fenders. 15x8 6ul's fit Hondas in the back a lot better than most of the Konigs out there (that are usually +25 for a 15x8). You might be able to get away with just a roll on the +25 stuff on an Integra. On my car, it would require a fairly serious pull.
Honestly, I do love the Hypergrams (I thought about doing them in an 8.5/7.5 staggered setup on my car), but there's enough poke there that I'd either want less hassle with 8's or to just go a little further and get more grip with 9's (Hence why I just did staggered 9/8 6ul's).
Also, some of the misinformation about wheel widths here make my head hurt. Particularly this comment here "There is no point in running anything wider than 7" with only a 205 tire. I have 225's on 6.5" wide wheels and they work perfectly fine, with less weight." Most 200TW 205's have been proven to be faster on an 8 than a 7 (And 205 Hoosiers are faster on a 9 than an 8). And 225's have been proven to be faster on 9's (10's for Hoosiers). Running on a 6.5 seems like there would be a lot of rollover and sounds like some dinky compromise you would see in a stock autocross class (ES MIatas or something like that). If more people made 8.5's, I'd actually like to see someone test to see if a 205 was faster on it or an 8. It's certainly not overly stretched there.
I feel like this article here gives some validity to the 'wider is better' theory. Every tire has an optimum wheel size and most of them simply aren't on the manufacturers recommended width range. Times don't lie.
12-31-2018, 03:20 PM
15x9 +35 et turbo integra street setup advice
Re: 15x9 +35 et turbo integra street setup advice
