You DIY your own crossmember/traction bar setup! post details/pics here
#51
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Re: (letmeseeyouskip)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by letmeseeyouskip »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn that would be sick making your own traction bar and start selling it</TD></TR></TABLE> do it!
#52
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Re: (2point2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, on an EF [b]all you have to do is heli-coil the hole on the lower control arm </TD></TR></TABLE>
am I the only one who doesnt trust a helicoil in a structural application ?
am I the only one who doesnt trust a helicoil in a structural application ?
#53
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Re: (Doctor CorteZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
am I the only one who doesnt trust a helicoil in a structural application ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no.. the shop i picked up the new rod ends from doesn't trust them either. Got a quote to put <someone fill in the black - it's like a solid body helicoil> for $25 so i'm doing that instead.. actually.. i might even just drill it out 1/2" and stick a bolt/nut!! whatever you do - if you use 1/2" you eliminate the need for those 'tabs' and what not.
am I the only one who doesnt trust a helicoil in a structural application ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no.. the shop i picked up the new rod ends from doesn't trust them either. Got a quote to put <someone fill in the black - it's like a solid body helicoil> for $25 so i'm doing that instead.. actually.. i might even just drill it out 1/2" and stick a bolt/nut!! whatever you do - if you use 1/2" you eliminate the need for those 'tabs' and what not.
#54
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Re: (2point2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i might even just drill it out 1/2" and stick a bolt/nut!!</TD></TR></TABLE>
use AN stuff , please.
shoulder lenth is important also , you dont want to load the threads at all.
use AN stuff , please.
shoulder lenth is important also , you dont want to load the threads at all.
#55
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Re: (Doctor CorteZ)
keep it going guy's this tread is going well, lot's of great info in there.
I'll get my plasma cutter in a few week's so from there, I'll start the whole fab's process... I already got the tube bender here cause I plan on going the Jimfab way's... just a thought however, I still feel the Full race setup too.
might change as well in the near futur. the info here is just helping !
Kranked.
I'll get my plasma cutter in a few week's so from there, I'll start the whole fab's process... I already got the tube bender here cause I plan on going the Jimfab way's... just a thought however, I still feel the Full race setup too.
might change as well in the near futur. the info here is just helping !
Kranked.
#56
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Re: (2point2)
thats ok, but you need to put a spacer or misalignments on top and bottom of the rod end! nothing huge just about 1/4 should be ok to keep the rod end from bottoming out on the bolt. (binding as everyone calls it)
#57
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Re: (fab1)
thanks for the tips guys.. hehe, I'm doing it this way (doing it over!) because i want it to be PERFECT, PROPERLY done and STRONG.. I appreciate the concern. Something with a shoulder is definitely going to be used - grade 8 with loctite all around - these rod ends are going to feel the wrath of a turbo h22a next summer so they have to be rigid
I looked at the control arm some more - nut/bolt is totally out of the question. there not enough surface area for a nut/washer on the bottom of the control arm to satisfy me.
These are 'keenserts' The ones I'm having installed look different? - they're basically solid body helicoils.
fab 1 - I'll keep at eye out for binding - the rods will be installed on my buddies drive on hoist so I'll have a good idea as to how the suspension will work with them - I'll most certainly buy some washers/spacers because my new rod ends don't look as forgiving as my old ones as far as misalignment. My cross-member (which will also be revised soon) was built around keeping the rods parallel with the car lowered so that will also help with that. I'll take some pics of the clearances.
I looked at the control arm some more - nut/bolt is totally out of the question. there not enough surface area for a nut/washer on the bottom of the control arm to satisfy me.
These are 'keenserts' The ones I'm having installed look different? - they're basically solid body helicoils.
fab 1 - I'll keep at eye out for binding - the rods will be installed on my buddies drive on hoist so I'll have a good idea as to how the suspension will work with them - I'll most certainly buy some washers/spacers because my new rod ends don't look as forgiving as my old ones as far as misalignment. My cross-member (which will also be revised soon) was built around keeping the rods parallel with the car lowered so that will also help with that. I'll take some pics of the clearances.
#58
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Re: (2point2)
PEGASUS Racing is a good source I've found for these kind of supplies. I don't know if it's the cheapest but their prices are good.
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Re: (fab1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fab1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">radius rods! its all in the angle... </TD></TR></TABLE>
#63
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Re: (2point2)
will it clear this? i need some bars badly and cant seem to find any to clear this it a h22 turbo in a 00 h/b civic with a 3' d/p
Modified by h22 civic at 11:18 PM 10/5/2004
Modified by h22 civic at 11:18 PM 10/5/2004
#64
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Re: (h22 civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22 civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will it clear this? i need some bars badly and cant seem to find any to clear this it a h22 turbo in a 00 h/b civic with a 3' d/p
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>
woah!! neat idea.
i doubt very much you can clear that.. but maybe you can turn the bars the other way around??? (towards the back) - just gotta fab up something solid back there?
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg</TD></TR></TABLE>
woah!! neat idea.
i doubt very much you can clear that.. but maybe you can turn the bars the other way around??? (towards the back) - just gotta fab up something solid back there?
#65
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2point2 has a point (no pun intended). you can make solid rear stabilizer bars to replace the bushed ones. hmmmm that just gave me a great idea! ill see if i can whip something up for this application sometime in the next few weeks,im kinda bust right now... thanks guys
Modified by fab1 at 6:51 PM 10/2/2004
Modified by fab1 at 6:51 PM 10/2/2004
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Re: (2point2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i want it to be PERFECT, PROPERLY done and STRONG.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">grade 8 </TD></TR></TABLE>
theres problem number one.
why not use real hardware ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">grade 8 </TD></TR></TABLE>
theres problem number one.
why not use real hardware ?
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Re: (90blackcrx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering, would mig welds or flux cored welds be strong enough for something like this ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no.
its structural so I would Tig only.
no.
its structural so I would Tig only.
#71
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Re: (Doctor CorteZ)
Would 1 1/2" with a .125 wall mild steel tubing be sufficient in an application like this?
Or I have some 1 1/4" schedule 80 pipe which comes out to about 1 5/8" od and a .185 wall. But that is some big and heavy ****. Also Im not sure Ill have enough clearance using that.
I would like to use DOM or chro-mo but I cant find anyone locally that sells it. If anyone has any online places that have a good price let me know. preferrably in the midwest as I live in Nebraska.
thanks
Or I have some 1 1/4" schedule 80 pipe which comes out to about 1 5/8" od and a .185 wall. But that is some big and heavy ****. Also Im not sure Ill have enough clearance using that.
I would like to use DOM or chro-mo but I cant find anyone locally that sells it. If anyone has any online places that have a good price let me know. preferrably in the midwest as I live in Nebraska.
thanks
#72
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Re: (fab1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fab1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2point2 has a point (no pun intended). you can make solid rear stabilizer bars to replace the bushed ones. hmmmm that just gave me a great idea! ill see if i can whip something up for this application sometime in the next few weeks,im kinda bust right now... thanks guys
Modified by fab1 at 6:51 PM 10/2/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Modified by fab1 at 6:51 PM 10/2/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
#73
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Re: (Doctor CorteZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no.
its structural so I would Tig only.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But if done right I heard mig can be just as strong.
no.
its structural so I would Tig only.</TD></TR></TABLE>
But if done right I heard mig can be just as strong.
#74
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Re: (Doctor CorteZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no.
its structural so I would Tig only.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol,mig is fine (as long as it is done correctly)!!! i dont want to debate weather it is or isnt so just take my word for it.
Modified by fab1 at 4:11 PM 10/5/2004
no.
its structural so I would Tig only.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol,mig is fine (as long as it is done correctly)!!! i dont want to debate weather it is or isnt so just take my word for it.
Modified by fab1 at 4:11 PM 10/5/2004
#75
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Re: (Doctor CorteZ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres problem number one.
why not use real hardware ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
come again?
why not use real hardware ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
come again?