intense4thgen

agreed nice work there.

Tony the Tiger

Can't wait to see the finished product in person later this season Great work as usual

Boostedld9

what thickness alum. should be used on the end tanks.

salival

I've used 2mm on every radiator i've built apart from a handfull at 1.2mm and 3mm.

I've *never* seen one of mine come back because of metal fatigue (I've built hundreds)

I'm not sure what that equates to in your foreign measurement, metric for life

Boostedld9

ok awesome thank, and lol at, I'm not sure what that equates to in your foreign measurement, metric for life. for some reason are system always has to be difficult with inchs ft. and mph

salival

2 millimeters = 0.0787401575 inches
3 millimeters = 0.118110236 inches

unusual71

Finally got my rad today. Put it in, fits like a glove, looks sexy too. Not finished still need to do a couple more mods, make some mounts clear a hole for the filler etc. oh and clean up the plastic mess.

TurboChurch

What chassis is that, EK? What size radiator is that or what is it originally for and how will you mount the T bracket back in, bend 2 90* angles in it to go around radiator front and re-use same holes? Please take detailed pics along the way of this. I am very interested in doing this soon with minimal downtime.

d16sandrail

Does your hoodlatch still function? What about the filler location being under the core support and in a spot which you can't really get to to check it/fill it? The hose inlets and outlets look larger than OEM hoses. Post some pics when shes running. Looks pretty good.

unusual71

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GRI-2-58190-X/

This is the radiator 24.5X13X2.5. Yes its overkill, I overheated the car once and will never let that happen again. There is also a 12" fan going in. Chassis year is 2000. the bracket I removed from the center (t-bracket?) will get replaced by welding a bolt to the lower cross member with the opening facing vertical. I will also make a notch or bracket on the upper cross member, then ill thread a rod through the top and into the bottom to add the rigidity that I removed. That way its solid but worst case scenario removing the rad isn't alot of work.

Edit: Doing this again I probably would go with a 1.5 or 2.0 thick rad but due to availability at the time and the fact that I thought the car would be ready by now I went with the thicker one that shipped right away. Also the added thickness only adds a couple pounds when full so the added capacity is nice.

The mounting will consist of two brackets like this [ and ] that will bolt to the existing mounting locations on the end tanks of the rad. It will be secured against a strip of thick rubber and then mounted to the chassis.


You are right about the inlet and outlet being larger than stock. This was choose so that I could simply slip the correct size piping inside, weld it, and have extended inlet/outlet that terminate in pretty much the stock location. I didn't want to find new hoses or stress the stockers so I planned ahead to do this. above the filler I will cut a hole (with a hole saw probably), and then possibly extend the filler neck so that the cap sits just a hair above the upper cross member, but mostly flush, just enough sticking out to grab it. For some reason I have always liked the look/idea of this just looks really clean in my opinion.

Im thinking I might mount the rad leaning slightly back (about 1 inch at top) for clearance issues with the latch and maybe give it a bit more room away from the rebar so I can make a proper shroud to make sure all the air that passes through the front vents is going through the rad. However I have been toying with the idea of going to locking hood pins for quite a while, for added security. not sure which route I will go, probably mount the rad at a bit of an angle. In the pictures the rad is just sitting on the lower cross member when actually mounted the bottom will be forward more and lower.

Im also making an overflow, does it need to be mounted at a specific height, like factory, the same height as the top of the rad? the overflow tank will be a redbull can with fittings welded on the top if everything goes according to plan.

Lastly, I appreciate a fellow fabricator checking out my work ill be sure to keep this thread updated with progress, however I have a lot on my plate right now trying to get the car back on the ground, so it might take a while.

d16sandrail

It sounds like you have everything pretty well planned out (I like that). As for the overflow, gravity is your freind, so keep it as high as possible...not overly critical I don't think...I see a lot of the hotrod guys with them mounted in remote places. Make sure your inlet tube into the overflow is long (near the top...sounds like your going to build a very small overflow) so closer to the top you keep it, the more volume you will make available. Your on the right track, keep us updated.

unusual71

Minor Update incase anyone is out there. Made these pieces this afternoon, the rad is going in tomorrow so Ill snap a couple more pics of how I decided to mount it. these turned out nice only took about an hour each on the lathe at my old high school. dont mind the novice welds it was my first time welding anything Aluminum since the classes i took in previously mentioned school (few years ago).

rick_rabies

is this the shortest radiator you could find?

TurboChurch

There are other shorter ones. I found a 20 x 13 x 1.5" so take the picture above and shorten the length by 4.5" and the depth by 1".

OP: I am really curious to see your install on the hood latch and t bracket that you mentioned welding and a long bolt to tie the two radiator supports together for the hood latch.

Also, would like to see what hoses you end up with now that the locations are in a different spot from factory. Keep this updated, we are interested to see the outcome and hear of any things you would do different. Thanks!

rick_rabies

if you dont mind...plz provide a link (i have searched for weeks now )

d16sandrail

Rabies... you have been talking about this radiator thing for months now :-) what is it that you are willing to spend on one? considering your going to buy one that your going to have to modify, or makes drastic mods to the car/core support, etc...yada yada. Maybe we can comprimize on the price of one of mine so you get dialed in with the sweet set up.
Have your people call my people.

Linh.

I think it wouldve look at more cleaner if you would have cut the whole end off and then weld that reducer you made.

HickamHatch

Are these measurements to the end of the tank or just the core?

TurboChurch

How about a group buy??? This is my way of having my people call your people. I have a few others that are interested. One EF, One EG and my EK.

On a side note, the 20x13x1 was in the homemadeturbo.com link that is posted earlier in this thread. Use the search provided in the link within the link. They are about $80-150 depending on which model you choose. the dimensions vary.

The other question about the size is for the overall, the summitracing one is overall size not core as well as the ones provided in the homemadeturbo link.

d16sandrail: please let me know if you would like to do some work.

unusual71

i agree however this way the stock hoses won`t be stretched as far

d16sandrail

I am not allowed to discuss pricing or really even promoting my products on H-T as I am not a vendor/sponsor. If you wish to discuss things with me, please do so via PM or email.

ghostofnyc

iTrader: (3)

interesting

Kidnkorner

Now, what can be done with an AC condenser?

92TypeR

A much more simple, and functional design would be to eliminate the filler neck on your radiator, and use a remote mounted combination swirl pot + filler neck (+ overflow nipple).

Swirl pots are great for eliminating air from the cooling system.

Mount this on your fender well, so that it is the highest point in your cooling system.

rs2606

Nice rads man I might be hitting you up in a few months.