Dallasb84

Ok so I decided to be a little more specific and put some more photos in here.

First off you have to build a mold. I modeled mine using a simple splash mold to capture the contour of the opening.



In this case the fog light will be swapped out for brake ducts and cold air intake ducts. I modeled the ducts with polystyrene foam. Bondo was applied and it was sanded smooth. Then primed and polished.



Mold release wax and pva was applied before layup.



Then I used a spray adhesive and applied a liberal coat to help lock the dry fabric tightly to the prepared mold surface. This serves to hold the carbon in place as you dab on the epoxy. Below is the placed fabric held in place by the 77 spray.

Dallasb84

Next resin is applied to the carbon fabric in a dabbing motion to work the resin down into the fabric and help work air out.



This is what it should look like up close.



Then prepare the layup for the vacuum bag.
Place two layers of peel ply over the wet fabric followed by a layer of breather cloth.
Place inside a vacuum bag and seal tight.



Up close you can see how tight the bag squeezes the fabric in place. You will also notice some resin wicking into the breather. You must make sure there is no bridging in the bag. Meaning the fabric is not laying down against the mold. Remember, fabric drapes but does not stretch.

Dallasb84

I cook my parts under vacuum either in an oven for more controlled cures or in a make shift heat box. Composites are often cooked this way so don't be surprised by the crudeness. This is a cardboard box and heat is controlled by both the heat gun and little flaps I cut in the side of the box. I am using polyester resin that cures at room temp. I am acelarating the cure to roughly 140f or so. You can use an infrared thermometer or a fluke meter to precisely control the ramp up and ramp down.... Not so important with this resin.



After the part cooks for about an hour or so go ahead and pull the bag apart. I reuse my wet layup bags more than once to save money so be careful. It can be done.

Separate the parts from the molds and pop them off. It takes so convincing and coaxing but they will release unless something went horribly wrong... As it sometimes does.



At this point I start applying a lacquer or 2k clear. In this case I keep the oven going and use a lacquer. Start with a quick wet sand 320 scuff to open up the resin and get rid of anything that transferred from the mold surface.



The spray on a coat nice coat of clear heavy enough it's wet but light enough it doesn't get milky. If you have sprayed it before you know what I mean. Place in the box for 30 seconds and apply another coat.



Notice there are plenty of surface imperfection and small pin holes... No biggie. Keep putting it on. Go ahead a spray 7 coats with 30 seconds of heat back to back. Then let cure in the box for 10 minutes at 120f or so.

Now wet sand 320 again.



5 more coats and the surface should look like this.

Dallasb84

If you look closely there is a very fine orange peel there.... Well a perfectionist would sand 1000 1500 2000 and polish....

Racecar says no.... Racecar says 3m compound and wax buff. So racecar got what racecar wants.



The orange peel is mostly gone and what is left is a nice presentable surface.
Hand polish and buff is all that was necessary for these parts.

Finish trim and install.



These baby's turned out just fine. They are incredibly light and will function great!

This thread serves to inspire members of honda tech to use the covered technique to fabricate their own custom pieces. Thank you for looking.

Dallasb84

Each side used 3oz of resin and 3 layers of fabric. Total cost minus labor for the ducts and molds is probably around 100 bux or so. I reuse my peel ply, breather and bags as much as I can so I did not have to use new stock to hook my friend up. Although gloves, bondo, glass, paint, stir sticks, brushes and all that adds up this is a safe number to what the total cost might be.

that-guy

good write up, and I see it was for a MKV GTi...use to have one, loved it

Dallasb84

Thanks man... He's the only guy in our team that's non honda... Derp! Maybe one day!

NWDyno

Looks good. Not many folks realize how much work goes into carbon parts...the easy part is actually laying the carbon. Making the molds, forming the foam can take weeks. We make WF-1 and F1000 cars from the ground up out of carbon fiber as well as custom parts like diffusers, seats, wings, dash panels, etc.

Dallasb84

Ohhhh yeah. I worked aerospace and literally polished aluminum molds to the nearest half thousandth. Used a laser to go no go.

As far as composite tooling... Yeah that takes alot of time too especially for infusion molds.

Dallasb84

Finished






Ill write up a thread on how to properly finish and repair carbon soon. I have an eg hood that is oxidized and gel coat that is peeling.

Dallasb84

kingofbattle909

iTrader: (6)

N!ce work
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Dallasb84

Thank you very much.