wade

iTrader: (1)

Nice work. Glad I have my Omni's. Because with omnis, you lower the car by lowering the entire shock body, and not just the coil spring, thus in pulling the piston further into the strut body making these tophats needed for lowered cars.

Evs-One

duh.

Koni Yellows will outperform your Omnis, though

wade

iTrader: (1)

duh? ok?

i dont care how they perform... its a freaking drag car what mine are on. it goes straight, thats it. i am no auto crosser, dont care

dfoxengr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And it is best to weld the base plate on the inside, as there is limited(as in none), room inside the opening for a weld bead </TD></TR></TABLE>

My tig bead is only about 1/8" wide and it only has the chance of hitting the chassi in about 60 degrees of the circumference, and a slight bit of mod with a ball peen will solve that. I welded the outside (inside corner weld) as I believe it to be stronger than an outside corner weld (ie. the inside of the hat)

dfoxengr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">duh.

Koni Yellows will outperform your Omnis, though </TD></TR></TABLE>

you should calm down here, I wasnt trying to **** you off earlier, just trying to get out the proper info, and theres no reason to make fun of this guy either.

e12ikktos

pm'd evs-one

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you should calm down here, I wasnt trying to **** you off earlier, just trying to get out the proper info, and theres no reason to make fun of this guy either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

calm down? I'm just fine. I believe we are all aware that full body coilovers have the ability to adjust the overall length of the damper....this mod is for coilovers without the option, or for dampers such as OE, Konis, etc/

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My tig bead is only about 1/8" wide and it only has the chance of hitting the chassi in about 60 degrees of the circumference, and a slight bit of mod with a ball peen will solve that. I welded the outside (inside corner weld) as I believe it to be stronger than an outside corner weld (ie. the inside of the hat)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I hear you on the strength issue, but the top hat doesn't take the load of suspension travel- the spring seat does(flat against shock tower). The damper doesn't have the load on it that the spring seat does- otherwise the stock hat would fail all on its own

Edit-

For anyone curious, this is the original thread I started making these off of as well. Too bad pics are down

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=469485

e12ikktos

pmed dfoxengr
and
Evs-One

dfoxengr

anyone else have any thoughts or comments?

e12ikktos

pmed

dfoxengr

any ideas on how to make these any better?

My_EFsedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any ideas on how to make these any better?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you mean?

dfoxengr

dont know really.

any other features that could set them apart? theyre really simple but anything else could be beneficial.

i already calculate certain travel ratios to offer to poeple other than standard lengths like other people and GC

Evs-One

What do you expect your travel ratios to help with?

Are you saying a damper performs better at x compression, so you shouldn't extend it to y length?? Curious.

downest

I got bored one day and made some too. Well... I made one... but I don't really need them so I stopped haha. Used a bandsaw to cut as well after driving the studs out, I thought it would be pretty baller to get some like ARP hardware for the studs. Since I was using stainless scrap and still learning a lot I took this opportunity to start backpurging as well...

e12ikktos

looks cricket =/
lol

dfoxengr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you expect your travel ratios to help with?

Are you saying a damper performs better at x compression, so you shouldn't extend it to y length?? Curious.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no thats not what Im saying.
stock you have a certain amount of bump/droop travel. you can make that into a ratio.
when you lower your car you really change that big time by losing a lot of bump travel and gaining a lot of droop. theres another ratio.

I then extend a certain amount to get another ratio between the two. Not the stock ratio either, but I got for one that will hopefully perform well when on track.

dfoxengr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by downest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought it would be pretty baller to get some like ARP hardware for the studs[/img]</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you think this would help with? Are you hearing of anyone breaking their studs? I never have/ I think that would be a huge waste of $$

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

no thats not what Im saying.
stock you have a certain amount of bump/droop travel. you can make that into a ratio.
when you lower your car you really change that big time by losing a lot of bump travel and gaining a lot of droop. theres another ratio.

I then extend a certain amount to get another ratio between the two. Not the stock ratio either, but I got for one that will hopefully perform well when on track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

But droop really shouldn't be a factor in this case. Lets use Koni Yellows for example, as they are a prime candidate for this mod.

At stock length, they are very long at full droop. Even if you shorten than by 2 inches, you will NEVER see the suspension at the new droop, besides jumping the car in the air or jacking it up. Spring rates/sway bars also need to come into play for how much droop as well.

I have high enough rates in the rear of my track car to have 0 droop if I wanted- but give myself about 1" of droop to keep from 3 wheeling on the slightest of turns.

Bump travel can't be effected by the mounts either, that's determined by the ride height pretty much.

So, shortening the droop by up to 2" on any OTS shock, will not do anything but benefit the life of the damper and ride quality. I just don't get the need for a formula.

dfoxengr

thats what youre trying to get is a good balance.
tons of hondas lift inside front wheels on track, and more drop travel will help that.
you dont want more compression travel than you need either.

balance is what youre going for. not just a generic length extension. especially since people lower their cars different amounts. that is the main point. extending different amounts for different lowered amounts. you need a basis to choose that extension length based on their current travel limitations. thats really all the ratio is used for.

dfoxengr

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Bump travel can't be effected by the mounts either, that's determined by the ride height pretty much.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Incorrect. this is fully determined with my method by the mount extension. I control both bump and droop travel with how much extension I put in, and the ratio is what helps me decide how much to add.

if someone currently has 6" shock travel total, and 1" bump travel (all these figures are at the shock) that means that they have 5" of droop travel. so I can add 1" to make it 2"/4" or 2" to make it 3"/3", etc. its all controlled by the amount you add in. And say my ratio was 50/50, then I would add 2". but its not 50/50, thats just an example.

-derek

Evs-One

I have never seen a FWD Honda, let alone any FWD chassis lift front inside wheel on track. Inside rear wheel, yes.

Not trying to be argumentative, it just seems like trying to "design" top hats for each vehicle is silly....regain as much lost compression as possible while still allowing some droop. Higher the rates= less droop needed....but it would be near impossible to get to that point without doing 4 " top hats

Evs-One

So, say a guy has 1" of bump travel before hitting the stoppers- there is nothing you can do to add more bump travel then to either raise the car, or remove the bump stops...

dfoxengr

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXrU9oExKxo
front wheel lift, rear lift, whatever. both are bad.

having enough droop travel helps eliminate it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, say a guy has 1" of bump travel before hitting the stoppers- there is nothing you can do to add more bump travel then to either raise the car, or remove the bump stops...</TD></TR></TABLE>


incorrect. the extended top hats add bump travel.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it just seems like trying to "design" top hats for each vehicle is silly....regain as much lost compression as possible while still allowing some droop. Higher the rates= less droop needed....but it would be near impossible to get to that point without doing 4 " top hats </TD></TR></TABLE>

if thats how you want to do it then I dont really care. seems like a pretty vague approach to me though, which is why I do it my way. "as much" and "some left" dont really correspond to avalues for me, which is what my ratio does for me that way I can actually give someone a number other than a response liek "ill just leave you some droop, an arbitrary amount".

higher spring rates need less droop? impossible to get to what point without 4" hats?

Evs-One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dfoxengr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXrU9oExKxo
front wheel lift, rear lift, whatever. both are bad.

having enough droop travel helps eliminate it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's all I needed to hear. I know cars(Civic EG for example), with Koni/GC's and a comptech rear sway bar.

Running stock top hats, he has as much droop as the car stock, but his fenders are about 1/4" above the tire. He will lift inside rear on any auto-x track. Does this mean he needs more droop????

This is going nowhere...