diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome
11-27-2005, 10:33 AM
#51
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I've used devcon for other aluminum work, but never thought it would be strong enough to fill a block. You can buy blockfill that is made for this purpose, both in cast iron and aluminum expansion rates.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...14795
that one says it has expansion rate similar to cast iron, but im sure ive seen one that was meant for aluminum blocks....
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...14795
that one says it has expansion rate similar to cast iron, but im sure ive seen one that was meant for aluminum blocks....
11-27-2005, 10:46 AM
#52
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Re: (Jared)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jared »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've used devcon for other aluminum work, but never thought it would be strong enough to fill a block. You can buy blockfill that is made for this purpose, both in cast iron and aluminum expansion rates.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...14795
that one says it has expansion rate similar to cast iron, but im sure ive seen one that was meant for aluminum blocks....</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes but the part that actually expands is the sleve, not the block, and the sleve is made of steel. the block only gets up to 180 deg F so it doesnt expand that much
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...14795
that one says it has expansion rate similar to cast iron, but im sure ive seen one that was meant for aluminum blocks....</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes but the part that actually expands is the sleve, not the block, and the sleve is made of steel. the block only gets up to 180 deg F so it doesnt expand that much
11-27-2005, 11:42 AM
#53
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Re: (gold EF)
i think they mean 120f beforte its cured.
250f after its cured. i dont think whetehr or not it s wet means anything.
if that were the case, it would def fail seeing that the coolant temps are about 60 degrees higher then that limit.
250f after its cured. i dont think whetehr or not it s wet means anything.
if that were the case, it would def fail seeing that the coolant temps are about 60 degrees higher then that limit.
11-27-2005, 01:36 PM
#54
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Re: (ccfab)
here is the data sheet:
http://www.devcon.com/techinfo/108.pdf
Temperature Resistance
Wet: 120°F, Dry: 250°F
Yeah, that seems like it's in regards to when the devcon is still wet. my bad, LOL. I knew something was definitely fishy about that.
http://www.devcon.com/techinfo/108.pdf
Temperature Resistance
Wet: 120°F, Dry: 250°F
Yeah, that seems like it's in regards to when the devcon is still wet. my bad, LOL. I knew something was definitely fishy about that.
11-27-2005, 05:34 PM
#55
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the sleeves flex the most at the thrust area midway down so filling from the bottom halfway up should be ok with coolant still flowing well up around the head sleeve junction where it is designed to be. These motors arent open deck for any reason. It helps stop detonation.
11-28-2005, 09:55 AM
#59
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Re: (wantboost)
Nice work 
I made a thread about doing this a while ago and got flamed to **** for it. Everyone said it wasn't going to work. LoL.
Good luck.
I made a thread about doing this a while ago and got flamed to **** for it. Everyone said it wasn't going to work. LoL.
Good luck.
11-28-2005, 12:54 PM
#60
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Re: (EJ1 wilcox)
Would this be the solution to the ever so weak B20 sleeves? I can definately see myself running a stock sleeve b20 if this Devcon stuff would hold up to the power of a high revving motor
12-01-2005, 12:48 AM
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Re: (VNTEC)
it will help for sure, but b20 sleves are soo thin, still wont hold too much power, id say you probably get 50hp strength from it plus more cooling problems, not worth it in my opinion
12-01-2005, 08:19 AM
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Re: (EJ1 wilcox)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice work
I made a thread about doing this a while ago and got flamed to **** for it. Everyone said it wasn't going to work. LoL.
Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you do it? and if so did it work out...with no cooling problems or flaking off?
I made a thread about doing this a while ago and got flamed to **** for it. Everyone said it wasn't going to work. LoL.
Good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you do it? and if so did it work out...with no cooling problems or flaking off?
12-01-2005, 08:21 AM
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Re: (Syner-G-Racing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you do it? and if so did it work out...with no cooling problems or flaking off?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, I never ended up doing it.
I sold all my turbo stuff and ended up with an EF project car instead.
Nope, I never ended up doing it.
I sold all my turbo stuff and ended up with an EF project car instead.
12-01-2005, 08:33 AM
#66
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Re: (gold EF)
i love that b20 sleeves are so thin and won't hold much power, but lots of people are making 350-400whp (dynojet) with them without any problems whatsoever. tune it correctly and they are every bit as good as the other b-blocks in stock form.
several people have tried the epoxy mod without overheating problems in boosted applications, as well.<-we'll see how that pans out with more people doing it.
several people have tried the epoxy mod without overheating problems in boosted applications, as well.<-we'll see how that pans out with more people doing it.
12-01-2005, 09:01 AM
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Re: (RMS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RMS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i love that b20 sleeves are so thin and won't hold much power, but lots of people are making 350-400whp (dynojet) with them without any problems whatsoever. tune it correctly and they are every bit as good as the other b-blocks in stock form.
several people have tried the epoxy mod without overheating problems in boosted applications, as well.<-we'll see how that pans out with more people doing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is wat i dont like, ive actually tried these things ive talked about. ive built b20vtec, and dyno'd it at turbonetics with their chassis dyno. the sleve only hold up to 300whp daily, not 400 like some people say. and the epoxy resin ive used many times too, and in a b20vtec/boosted application, it does get hotter, so whatever you read, ive actually done it
several people have tried the epoxy mod without overheating problems in boosted applications, as well.<-we'll see how that pans out with more people doing it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is wat i dont like, ive actually tried these things ive talked about. ive built b20vtec, and dyno'd it at turbonetics with their chassis dyno. the sleve only hold up to 300whp daily, not 400 like some people say. and the epoxy resin ive used many times too, and in a b20vtec/boosted application, it does get hotter, so whatever you read, ive actually done it
12-01-2005, 09:08 AM
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Re: (Jonathan_ED3)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jonathan_ED3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">50hp strength, huh?
Come on man.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
i didnt know how else to put it
but like i said before, the biggest reason for block cement is not for strength, its to keep the cylinder round to help the rings seal. because at increased load the cylinder walls start to become oblong.
Come on man.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
i didnt know how else to put it
but like i said before, the biggest reason for block cement is not for strength, its to keep the cylinder round to help the rings seal. because at increased load the cylinder walls start to become oblong.
12-01-2005, 09:28 AM
#69
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Re: (gold EF)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the biggest reason for block cement is not for strength, its to keep the cylinder round to help the rings seal</TD></TR></TABLE>
And why would they become oblong, so this does kind of provide more strength.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes but the part that actually expands is the sleve, not the block, and the sleve is made of steel. the block only gets up to 180 deg F so it doesnt expand that much
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sure about the block only getting that hot ? My coolant reaches about 180f but that's the coolant.
the biggest reason for block cement is not for strength, its to keep the cylinder round to help the rings seal</TD></TR></TABLE>
And why would they become oblong, so this does kind of provide more strength.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gold EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes but the part that actually expands is the sleve, not the block, and the sleve is made of steel. the block only gets up to 180 deg F so it doesnt expand that much
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sure about the block only getting that hot ? My coolant reaches about 180f but that's the coolant.
12-01-2005, 01:53 PM
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (VNTEC)
I think you get what you pay for and this is just another way to cut corners.
12-01-2005, 02:04 PM
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (BigBlockH22atch)
good example of the honda-tech attitude right there....
just cause its cheap, doesnt make it non effective
just cause its cheap, doesnt make it non effective
12-01-2005, 02:35 PM
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (ccfab)
I didnt say it wasnt gonna work I just said you get what you pay for. You are just installing another version of a block guard.
I wish you the best of luck on your trial. Let us know how it works out for you.
I wish you the best of luck on your trial. Let us know how it works out for you.
12-01-2005, 02:50 PM
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (BigBlockH22atch)
haha i was just ******* with you man.
uits about an inch thicker than a block guard, and saved the hassle of welding and machine work.
i will be firing this baby up next week. ill keep everyone posted.
uits about an inch thicker than a block guard, and saved the hassle of welding and machine work.
i will be firing this baby up next week. ill keep everyone posted.
