diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome
#26
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Re: (Hella_JDM)
exactly what i was thinking,but that might create hotspots maybe, it would be like the posts, i foget who does it, but they run posts vertically in the water jacket area around the sleeves and block
#28
OG triple OG
Re: (xerox445)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xerox445 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the real question is how close are the thermal expansion rates of devcon vs the alum in the block and decvon vs the sleeves.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
#31
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Re: (ccfab)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfab »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and a bore or hone is std procedure when rebuilding an engine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
According to the Honda manual and if you were following it spec by spec, you really can't hone a block yourself.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1085174
and a bore or hone is std procedure when rebuilding an engine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
According to the Honda manual and if you were following it spec by spec, you really can't hone a block yourself.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1085174
#33
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Re: (RTErnie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTErnie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you did everything to honda spec I dont think you could but a turbo on it either :-P</TD></TR></TABLE>
The thread I linked actually brings up really good points though.
The thread I linked actually brings up really good points though.
#34
Re: (90blackcrx)
this is a budget shortblock F22dohc that is getting an H22 head for turbo.
i used sugar rather than salt, but same result. for an F or H motor the 1lb package of devcon gets you exactly 1" thickness. if it sticks just a bit above the deck when you pour it you'll still be okay... it shrinks up as it cures. a hint for pouring it: i put the mixed devcon into a plastic bag and cut a small corner off like a pastry bag. squeezes right down in the water jacket without including a bunch of air bubbles.
#35
OG triple OG
Re: (RMS)
looks good . has anyone experimented with filling the block solid instead of of using a substance to keep the devcon about an inch thick? anyone with this setup taken the head of to look at the devcon after usage? im curious with the constant expansion and contraction if the devcon might break up.
#36
we did siguy's block with the bottom 2/3s with cement and the top 1/3 with devcon. that is a race-only block though. i would worry about overheating with a thickness over 1.25" in a street car. that devcon is metal-filled and hard as hell when cured. considering the industrial uses of it i have no worry whatsoever of long-term durability. i'm not so fond of the cement product in an aluminum block.
#37
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Re: (RMS)
hows cooling transfer through the devcon to the cylinders i wonder. have you noticed any cooling problems with that race block? faster than usual warm up or anything?
#39
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Re: (90blackcrx)
so this doesn't really distort the cylinders like the block guard? i was thinking of doing this as well, but keeping an extra set of pistons in there to keep the shape correct.
also, would you recommend putting the head/mains/crank and torquing them all down to spec? i was thinking about pouring this stuff, and then assembling the motor to let it cure. is that a good idea? im just hoping that i don't have to bore out the sleeves. they are honed and ready to assemble, but boring would require $$ and a machine shop.
also, would you recommend putting the head/mains/crank and torquing them all down to spec? i was thinking about pouring this stuff, and then assembling the motor to let it cure. is that a good idea? im just hoping that i don't have to bore out the sleeves. they are honed and ready to assemble, but boring would require $$ and a machine shop.
#40
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (ccfab)
hey dude this a sweet *** write up and I will be doing this on my ls block when it gets back from the machine shop! thanks for the great idea! keep this **** up ccfab
#41
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (CR-V-tech)
i gave mine a light hone, and they were ready to go.
theres no pressure being exerted on the sleeves.
theres no pressure being exerted on the sleeves.
#42
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (ccfab)
Putting pistons in the bores will not do anything. Due the Dex is no pressureised it will not destort or put pressure on the sleeves. Its basicly like water going around the sleeves it just moves wtf am i saying never mind i dunno how to word it lol.
#44
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Re: diy filled b series block, with writeup, comments welcome (ccfab)
very interesting. devcon specifies that liquid aluminum is only rated to being resistant to 120F degrees when wet so I am surprised this actually works.
good luck with that.
good luck with that.
#45
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Re: (xerox445)
i used to be into pushrod v8's too, untill i found out how fast and cheap it was to build a honda : P but yeah instead of the salt trick, we used to turn the block upside down and fill it half way.
another thing, the cement we used was not really for strenght even thought it will help in aluminum honda blocks, but the theory was that the cylinder gets oblonged the hotter it gets (the harder you push the motor), the cement helps the cylinder stay round, less blowby, more power
another thing, the cement we used was not really for strenght even thought it will help in aluminum honda blocks, but the theory was that the cylinder gets oblonged the hotter it gets (the harder you push the motor), the cement helps the cylinder stay round, less blowby, more power
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Re: (Hella_JDM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was that theory ever founded or confirmed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
definitely the evidence lies in 6 second drag cars with "rocked" blocks, but do the bottom of the block, you'll be much happier.
definitely the evidence lies in 6 second drag cars with "rocked" blocks, but do the bottom of the block, you'll be much happier.
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Re: (Hella_JDM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good . has anyone experimented with filling the block solid instead of of using a substance to keep the devcon about an inch thick? anyone with this setup taken the head of to look at the devcon after usage? im curious with the constant expansion and contraction if the devcon might break up.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah alot of hard core drag racers fill it all the way, but they only have to go 1/4 mile and the block does get hot as F
the 1 inch left is to let some water flow so the block still gets cooled a little. ive seen a guy fill the block about an inch, then turn the block upside down and fill it another inch, this way the water flow was in the middle and the strenght was at the upper and lower parts of the cylinder, where the rod exerts the most pressure against the cylinder walls because of direction change
yeah alot of hard core drag racers fill it all the way, but they only have to go 1/4 mile and the block does get hot as F
the 1 inch left is to let some water flow so the block still gets cooled a little. ive seen a guy fill the block about an inch, then turn the block upside down and fill it another inch, this way the water flow was in the middle and the strenght was at the upper and lower parts of the cylinder, where the rod exerts the most pressure against the cylinder walls because of direction change