FS: Eastern Canada 95 Teg (317whp)
03-08-2008, 12:33 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: St. Johns, NL, Canada
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
FS: 95 Integra - 317whp (Eastern Canada)
Well my priorities are changing and I don’t think I have the time to devote to the hobby anymore. Ill start off by saying that there is more money invested in this car than most would think. I am going to take the time to go through as much as I can possibly think of in terms of modifications and replacement parts. There is going to be a lot that I don’t remember or at least cant right now. Please PM me with any Question or offers.
Ok here goes....
It’s a 1995 Acura Integra RS (Not GSR).
I bought the car bone stock on March 31, 2003 with 83,000kms, it now has 145,000kms. There is about $10,000 or so in the motor alone. It has been a labor of love and an obsession for a long time. I would not want to calculate how much time and money has been spent on this car because I would cry. Every year that I have owned the car it has been garaged for 8.5 months of the year . It has had a couple of smacks during Targa but have always replaced everything broken. I have fully replaced the rad support, rad, one indicator, and one headlight. When I first bought it I replaced all the hard brake lines and all the bushings with energy suspension (black graphite impregnated ones).
Well, first of all the paint job stands out the most. Personally if I was going to keep the car, this is the only thing I would re-do. The paint job is not the best in spots and it’s a little unique for most. It was painted this way to help promote family business and my sponsor. Besides that though, The only real “cosmetic” change I have made to the car is the spoiler, some like it, most don’t. Its an easy item to remove and its most likely gone in any case. There is no after market body kit no tint nor flashy lights. Paint it a solid color and the car becomes a stock looking “sleeper”. Besides the hood pins. (which are what keeps the hood down, not there for looks..) There are a couple of spots when removing the stickers I took some clear coat off with them. Like I said before the car would probably need a paint job because of this.
I Decided in 2004 to build it into a turbo charged LS/Vtec. It took 3 years to finally get everything properly done. First Motor made 235whp and 190ft lb. That motor was a “training motor” and has since been replaced. Being a hybrid motor gave troubles in areas like, fitting power steering brackets and providing proper external oil feed to the head while also feeding enough to the turbo. Amongst many, many other things.
As the car sits now it makes 317 wheel horsepower and 290 lb ft of torque on 91 octane at 15psi (low boost). With higher octane gas and a few clicks on the boost controller you should be able to reach 400whp or more without much trouble. You would need a bigger exhaust housing for the turbo to get anymore than that. The Motor was built to take whatever I wanted to throw at it. The weakest link in this motor is the forged Eagle rods which will give out around 700whp (or so they say, I don’t really believe that.) I never revved this motor to it potential. Even though the valvetrain is new, the stock B16 valvetrain is limited to below 8000rpm. I set the limiter to 7000rpm because it was making enough power already. The dyno graph showed no sign of flattening off even that high. The bottom end is good to go as high as you want (10-12,000rpm) You just need a set of cams that flow well that high and some valve springs/retainers. Chris and Dean at CPR services built the bottom end of the motor and do all the work I am not capable or skilled enough to do myself.
In More Detail
Bottom End:
- Block was bought directly from Golden Eagle (http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com), It is a 81.5mm sleeved B18A block (Not “Economy” sleeves). I kept the bore small so there was room for hones and bores later on if need be. This block is rated to 1100hp. I had it align honed and cylinders honed in town to match pistons perfectly.
- Ever single seal and gasket is brand new OEM HONDA PARTS I ordered the complete kit from http://www.heeltoeauto.com and I recommend them to anyone.
- Pistons are CP forged 81.5mm (9:1 comp)
- Eagle forged H-Beam rods with ARP rod bolts
- ACL bearings (Rods, Mains, and Thrust)
- VTEC oil pump (awesome oil pressure all across revs, even Idle is 10-15psi).
- Golden Eagle oil supply sandwich.
Top End:
- Gen1 B16A DOHC Vtec cylinder head.
- All new OEM Honda seals and gaskets from (http://www.heeltoeauto.com)
- All new OEM Honda parts; Valves, springs, retainers, lost motion assemblies, and stem seals.
- All Head work was done by Portflow Design (http://www.portflow.com)
Magna fluxed
Ported & Polished
5 Angle Valve job
Surfaced
Assembled
- Using Stock B16A cams and gears.
- Using Cometic Ls/Vtec 81.5mm .030 thickness turbo gasket
- ARP Head Studs
Transmission:
- B18B hydro tranny with 140,000kms
- Replaced gear oil every year using redline oil.
- New OEM Honda drive axle seals.
- Brand new Gator 500whp Axles $$$
- Integra Type R limited slip differential and pinion (4.4 final drive)
- ACT Xtreme duty pressure plate
- Bully 4 puck sintered iron clutch disc
- B&M Short throw shifter with Integra Type R Shift ****.
Misc:
- Garrett T3/T04 Turbo .48A/R(hot side) .57trim stage 3 wheel .60 A/R (Cool side)Housing. (restricted oil pressure from day 1 with .060 restrictor)
- SS Autochrome turbo manifold
- SS Autochrome wastegate w 5psi spring
- Turbosmart Manual Boost controller
- Greddy Type RS BOV (Genuine)
- Custom 31X2.75X6 FMIC
- Custom built 3 exhaust with Magnaflow 3 straight through muffler (a work of art)
- Powerplus Typhoon Intake Manifold (Polished)
- Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
- Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
- RC 750cc (75lb) Injectors...new!
- GM 3 Bar MAP sensor
- Using stock dizzy with MSD Blaster II coil
- Tailor 8mm Spiro Plug Wires
- NGK BKR7E plugs (gapped to .030 )
-VW Aluminum cross flow radiator with Moroso in-line rad cap. (GM style cap)
Interior/Electronics:
-Using a Socketed P28 (VTEC) ECU Tuned with Crome Pro. The sale of the car includes hundreds of dollars worth of hardware required to tune the car yourself and changed almost any setting, launch control, rev limiter, timing and fuel maps for both low and high speed cams, boost cut, the list goes on and on.... (http://www.pgmfi.org) <– to learn more.
-Gauges includes:
Apexi Turbo timer (doubles at voltmeter)
Autometer Ultralite series Coolant Temp
Autometer Ultralite series Oil pressure
Autometer Ultralite series Boost
Autometer Shift light
AEM UEGO Wideband A/F gauge (of course)
-Genuine Momo “Montecarlo” 330mm Leather Steering wheel with Lonza horn button. (could be nitrous button)
-Tenzo R Rally Type Racing seats (Very comfortable and supportive)
-Leaf Racewear 3" 6 Point Camlock Race Harnesses (Stock seatbelts are not installed but I have them still.)
- Couple of cool custom gadgets installed are:
VTEC engagement light
Rad Fan Toggle switch with on light (to manually start rad fan if desired)
There is small siren under the dash so when/if the car losses oil pressure you will hear an audible chirp to alert you. (Time would be of the essence)
Stuff I replaced just last summer:
-Both Lower ball Joints
-Both Out Tie rod ends (inner joints are still stock)
-Both Upper Ball Joints (came with skunk2 camber kit)
-3/4 Wheel bearings the other was replaced 2yrs ago
-Both outer CV boots on the new axles (they were overfilled with grease and got torn up)
-Rebuilt Alternator (I couldn’t get an aftermarket pulley off my old one so I replaced whole thing)
-New Battery (Napa)
-Unseized and replaced dog bones at the front of the trailing arms in the rear (anyone who owns a Honda know that these seize when the cars are rolled off the assembly line.)
-Replaced all front polyurethane control arms bushings with more poly’s (lower and upper on both sides C-arms done.)
-All hard fuel lines from the tank were replaced.(feed, return, vent)
-I have brand new brakes pads (Hawk HPS for the Wilwood calipers and over sized rears)
-3 Exhaust was built by Dean Anthony at CPR last summer and it is a work of art. Its uses a Magnaflow 3 straight through muffler without any resonator.
-New fuel filter-New engine grounds
Suspension/Brakes
-Rims are American Eagle Wheels "Style 193"
-Tires are BFGoodrich KDW's size 205/45ZR17
-Wilwoods 12.2" Front big brake kit with Dynalite 4 piston Aluminum Calipers
-Upgraded to rear 10.9" rotors and relocated stock calipers. (Want to keep E-brake)
-Using Hawk HP+ (sick pads) now but I also have a set of Hawk HPS spares to go with..
These brakes are simply crazy, Even from 200kph these Do Not Fade!!
-Wilwood stainless steel flex hoses front and rear.
-Dot 5 (high temp) brake fluid. (Changed every year)
- Tein Super street dampers. This kits is fully height adjustable with 16 way damper adjustments. This is a good brand name and the product shows.
Spring rates: Front - 8kgf/mm Rear - 6kgf/mm
I have 2 sets of extra springs if you find these rough (which you wont.) I have a set of 4kgf/mm and 5kgf/mm springs which are pretty easily swapped out.
- Almost all the bushings in the entire car have been switched to polyurethane. Which includes:
All shock mounts U/L-F/R
Upper and lower control arms F
Lower Control arms R
Front sway bar bushings and End links
Rear sway bar end links
Motor mount inserts (all 5 mounts)
Shifter Bushings
Rear trailing arm bushings
Steering rack bushings
- Skunk2 pro series camber adjustable front upper control arms. (Huge range of adjustment).
- Rear lower tie bar
- Car has a custom built 6 point roll cage which has been inspected and passed by ARMS / Targa Newfoundland / and Vinland Motorsports. This adds a crazy amount of rigidity to the car and I credit it with keeping all the chirps and rattles away for all these years. Jack up the car and the whole side goes up evenly. Also gives proper mounts for the 6 point harness.
Items that would go with the car (if you want):
- Spare Mugen (style) steering wheel
- 2 Spare rims and tires (same rims and same tires as on the car)
- Stock rear seats
- Tools to adjust Tein Suspension
- Assortment of spare nuts bolts Honda related (metric stuff)
- Basically anything I have around for the car. I will be adding to this as I find stuff.
Until the car comes out of storage probably sometime around the beginning of April or so (weather depending of course) I don’t have any pictures of anything but the car in Targa. I will post up those for now. I'm not going to rush this sale. If it sells it sells if it doesn’t then I guess it stays with me another year.
Considering everything this car is a steal at $16,500obo
After 8:00pm phone is: 709-746-2562
Daytime message machine: 709-368-1635
email: nipper_integra@hotmail.com
pr just pm me...
Willing to hear offers..
Modified by Targa4Life at 3:31 PM 3/9/2008
Modified by Targa4Life at 3:36 PM 3/9/2008
Ok here goes....
It’s a 1995 Acura Integra RS (Not GSR).
I bought the car bone stock on March 31, 2003 with 83,000kms, it now has 145,000kms. There is about $10,000 or so in the motor alone. It has been a labor of love and an obsession for a long time. I would not want to calculate how much time and money has been spent on this car because I would cry. Every year that I have owned the car it has been garaged for 8.5 months of the year . It has had a couple of smacks during Targa but have always replaced everything broken. I have fully replaced the rad support, rad, one indicator, and one headlight. When I first bought it I replaced all the hard brake lines and all the bushings with energy suspension (black graphite impregnated ones).
Well, first of all the paint job stands out the most. Personally if I was going to keep the car, this is the only thing I would re-do. The paint job is not the best in spots and it’s a little unique for most. It was painted this way to help promote family business and my sponsor. Besides that though, The only real “cosmetic” change I have made to the car is the spoiler, some like it, most don’t. Its an easy item to remove and its most likely gone in any case. There is no after market body kit no tint nor flashy lights. Paint it a solid color and the car becomes a stock looking “sleeper”. Besides the hood pins. (which are what keeps the hood down, not there for looks..) There are a couple of spots when removing the stickers I took some clear coat off with them. Like I said before the car would probably need a paint job because of this.
I Decided in 2004 to build it into a turbo charged LS/Vtec. It took 3 years to finally get everything properly done. First Motor made 235whp and 190ft lb. That motor was a “training motor” and has since been replaced. Being a hybrid motor gave troubles in areas like, fitting power steering brackets and providing proper external oil feed to the head while also feeding enough to the turbo. Amongst many, many other things.
As the car sits now it makes 317 wheel horsepower and 290 lb ft of torque on 91 octane at 15psi (low boost). With higher octane gas and a few clicks on the boost controller you should be able to reach 400whp or more without much trouble. You would need a bigger exhaust housing for the turbo to get anymore than that. The Motor was built to take whatever I wanted to throw at it. The weakest link in this motor is the forged Eagle rods which will give out around 700whp (or so they say, I don’t really believe that.) I never revved this motor to it potential. Even though the valvetrain is new, the stock B16 valvetrain is limited to below 8000rpm. I set the limiter to 7000rpm because it was making enough power already. The dyno graph showed no sign of flattening off even that high. The bottom end is good to go as high as you want (10-12,000rpm) You just need a set of cams that flow well that high and some valve springs/retainers. Chris and Dean at CPR services built the bottom end of the motor and do all the work I am not capable or skilled enough to do myself.
In More Detail
Bottom End:
- Block was bought directly from Golden Eagle (http://www.goldeneaglemfg.com), It is a 81.5mm sleeved B18A block (Not “Economy” sleeves). I kept the bore small so there was room for hones and bores later on if need be. This block is rated to 1100hp. I had it align honed and cylinders honed in town to match pistons perfectly.
- Ever single seal and gasket is brand new OEM HONDA PARTS I ordered the complete kit from http://www.heeltoeauto.com and I recommend them to anyone.
- Pistons are CP forged 81.5mm (9:1 comp)
- Eagle forged H-Beam rods with ARP rod bolts
- ACL bearings (Rods, Mains, and Thrust)
- VTEC oil pump (awesome oil pressure all across revs, even Idle is 10-15psi).
- Golden Eagle oil supply sandwich.
Top End:
- Gen1 B16A DOHC Vtec cylinder head.
- All new OEM Honda seals and gaskets from (http://www.heeltoeauto.com)
- All new OEM Honda parts; Valves, springs, retainers, lost motion assemblies, and stem seals.
- All Head work was done by Portflow Design (http://www.portflow.com)
Magna fluxed
Ported & Polished
5 Angle Valve job
Surfaced
Assembled
- Using Stock B16A cams and gears.
- Using Cometic Ls/Vtec 81.5mm .030 thickness turbo gasket
- ARP Head Studs
Transmission:
- B18B hydro tranny with 140,000kms
- Replaced gear oil every year using redline oil.
- New OEM Honda drive axle seals.
- Brand new Gator 500whp Axles $$$
- Integra Type R limited slip differential and pinion (4.4 final drive)
- ACT Xtreme duty pressure plate
- Bully 4 puck sintered iron clutch disc
- B&M Short throw shifter with Integra Type R Shift ****.
Misc:
- Garrett T3/T04 Turbo .48A/R(hot side) .57trim stage 3 wheel .60 A/R (Cool side)Housing. (restricted oil pressure from day 1 with .060 restrictor)
- SS Autochrome turbo manifold
- SS Autochrome wastegate w 5psi spring
- Turbosmart Manual Boost controller
- Greddy Type RS BOV (Genuine)
- Custom 31X2.75X6 FMIC
- Custom built 3 exhaust with Magnaflow 3 straight through muffler (a work of art)
- Powerplus Typhoon Intake Manifold (Polished)
- Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
- Walbro 255lph Fuel pump
- RC 750cc (75lb) Injectors...new!
- GM 3 Bar MAP sensor
- Using stock dizzy with MSD Blaster II coil
- Tailor 8mm Spiro Plug Wires
- NGK BKR7E plugs (gapped to .030 )
-VW Aluminum cross flow radiator with Moroso in-line rad cap. (GM style cap)
Interior/Electronics:
-Using a Socketed P28 (VTEC) ECU Tuned with Crome Pro. The sale of the car includes hundreds of dollars worth of hardware required to tune the car yourself and changed almost any setting, launch control, rev limiter, timing and fuel maps for both low and high speed cams, boost cut, the list goes on and on.... (http://www.pgmfi.org) <– to learn more.
-Gauges includes:
Apexi Turbo timer (doubles at voltmeter)
Autometer Ultralite series Coolant Temp
Autometer Ultralite series Oil pressure
Autometer Ultralite series Boost
Autometer Shift light
AEM UEGO Wideband A/F gauge (of course)
-Genuine Momo “Montecarlo” 330mm Leather Steering wheel with Lonza horn button. (could be nitrous button)
-Tenzo R Rally Type Racing seats (Very comfortable and supportive)
-Leaf Racewear 3" 6 Point Camlock Race Harnesses (Stock seatbelts are not installed but I have them still.)
- Couple of cool custom gadgets installed are:
VTEC engagement light
Rad Fan Toggle switch with on light (to manually start rad fan if desired)
There is small siren under the dash so when/if the car losses oil pressure you will hear an audible chirp to alert you. (Time would be of the essence)
Stuff I replaced just last summer:
-Both Lower ball Joints
-Both Out Tie rod ends (inner joints are still stock)
-Both Upper Ball Joints (came with skunk2 camber kit)
-3/4 Wheel bearings the other was replaced 2yrs ago
-Both outer CV boots on the new axles (they were overfilled with grease and got torn up)
-Rebuilt Alternator (I couldn’t get an aftermarket pulley off my old one so I replaced whole thing)
-New Battery (Napa)
-Unseized and replaced dog bones at the front of the trailing arms in the rear (anyone who owns a Honda know that these seize when the cars are rolled off the assembly line.)
-Replaced all front polyurethane control arms bushings with more poly’s (lower and upper on both sides C-arms done.)
-All hard fuel lines from the tank were replaced.(feed, return, vent)
-I have brand new brakes pads (Hawk HPS for the Wilwood calipers and over sized rears)
-3 Exhaust was built by Dean Anthony at CPR last summer and it is a work of art. Its uses a Magnaflow 3 straight through muffler without any resonator.
-New fuel filter-New engine grounds
Suspension/Brakes
-Rims are American Eagle Wheels "Style 193"
-Tires are BFGoodrich KDW's size 205/45ZR17
-Wilwoods 12.2" Front big brake kit with Dynalite 4 piston Aluminum Calipers
-Upgraded to rear 10.9" rotors and relocated stock calipers. (Want to keep E-brake)
-Using Hawk HP+ (sick pads) now but I also have a set of Hawk HPS spares to go with..
These brakes are simply crazy, Even from 200kph these Do Not Fade!!
-Wilwood stainless steel flex hoses front and rear.
-Dot 5 (high temp) brake fluid. (Changed every year)
- Tein Super street dampers. This kits is fully height adjustable with 16 way damper adjustments. This is a good brand name and the product shows.
Spring rates: Front - 8kgf/mm Rear - 6kgf/mm
I have 2 sets of extra springs if you find these rough (which you wont.) I have a set of 4kgf/mm and 5kgf/mm springs which are pretty easily swapped out.
- Almost all the bushings in the entire car have been switched to polyurethane. Which includes:
All shock mounts U/L-F/R
Upper and lower control arms F
Lower Control arms R
Front sway bar bushings and End links
Rear sway bar end links
Motor mount inserts (all 5 mounts)
Shifter Bushings
Rear trailing arm bushings
Steering rack bushings
- Skunk2 pro series camber adjustable front upper control arms. (Huge range of adjustment).
- Rear lower tie bar
- Car has a custom built 6 point roll cage which has been inspected and passed by ARMS / Targa Newfoundland / and Vinland Motorsports. This adds a crazy amount of rigidity to the car and I credit it with keeping all the chirps and rattles away for all these years. Jack up the car and the whole side goes up evenly. Also gives proper mounts for the 6 point harness.
Items that would go with the car (if you want):
- Spare Mugen (style) steering wheel
- 2 Spare rims and tires (same rims and same tires as on the car)
- Stock rear seats
- Tools to adjust Tein Suspension
- Assortment of spare nuts bolts Honda related (metric stuff)
- Basically anything I have around for the car. I will be adding to this as I find stuff.
Until the car comes out of storage probably sometime around the beginning of April or so (weather depending of course) I don’t have any pictures of anything but the car in Targa. I will post up those for now. I'm not going to rush this sale. If it sells it sells if it doesn’t then I guess it stays with me another year.
Considering everything this car is a steal at $16,500obo
After 8:00pm phone is: 709-746-2562
Daytime message machine: 709-368-1635
email: nipper_integra@hotmail.com
pr just pm me...
Willing to hear offers..
Modified by Targa4Life at 3:31 PM 3/9/2008
Modified by Targa4Life at 3:36 PM 3/9/2008
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
