Mfoehrkolb

I have a p2t4 h22 trans from an SIR. I am having problems with high rpm 2nd to 3rd, and it will not go into gear until the rpm's drop. If i hold it in the 3rd gear location it will fall into gear once the rpm's get down to probably around 6,500-7,000.

Ever since i put this trans on i have had this problem, but I had a pressure plate bolt back out and shot into my trans and put a small hole that i had welded shut. Idk if it was coincidence or if that is actually my problem.

I have the trans at Epic Tuning now and the main guy there told me he could rebuild it etc etc, but he honestly doesn't think there is anything wrong with the trans. He told me to put it back on with the pressure plate bolt back in and all re torqued and see what it does. He said the trans shows wear, but nothing too alarming to make him think there would be problems.

He said the only thing he would do is use carbon syncros. I called back later in the day but he had left for the day and spoke to the desk guy. He checked over the tech's notes and he also had put down that the sleeve and slider could be replaced and they have a used good sleeve and slider for 75$ and would charge me 2 hours (150$ to install).


My question is... What causes the trans to be totally fine in every gear except for going into 3rd @ high rpms and lets it fall into gear when it lowers?

Could it really just be my pressure plate bolt that backed out and possibly other bolts not torqued correctly? Or is there a more common underlying problem?

Also, is there any DIY trans rebuilds for h series? (or b series if that is usable)?



EDIT: Idk if this is needed but OEM Honda MTF (Topped Off & New), Shifter Cables Routed Through Firewall (straight shot to trans), and competition clutch 6 puck sprung and pressure plate (think its their stage 3-4or5... i honestly forget lol)


I did some research and found some people saying the shift linkage "stretches" overtime and new ones should be purchased.

Mista Bone

the cables

did you tie them together with zip ties?

Mfoehrkolb

--- I didn't have them tied together... Just from shifter, to outside, above the subframe and to the trans. No zip ties at all. Didn't think it was needed.

You saying "the cables " Is that sarcasm, or a real suggestion.

EDIT: This is in my 98 civic hatch.

Gearspeed-Performance

iTrader: (1)

May be a little of both sarcasm and real lol jk

zip tying them keeps the cables from flexing and causing shift issues. The 3-4 sleeve set may be showing wear and can be the culprit of your 3rd gear problem. That will be comprised of your 3-4 sleeve, 3-4 hub, 3-4 synchros and the synchro springs. Also take a look at the 3rd gear closely. Carbon synchros will definately aid in high RPM shifting granted that all other parts for 3rd gear are in good working order.

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

If its NOT going in (is it grinding?), syncro ring is probably worn... If it grinds VERY bad and wont go right in the syncro spring is ****ed (Ive actually broke them), if it grinds or scratches but goes in... The selector sleeve is worn.

If its ONLY third and not fourth too, its most probabaly not the fork. Its NOT the cables. My money is on the syncro ring and/or the cone are worn. You can tell when you have it apart.... If Im right, the syncro will sit almost flat on the teeth of the gear.


Ive used OEM syncros in flat foot 9500 rpm shifting straightcut boxes with lightweight shockproof in them... They are ALOT more resiliant than people give them credit for... Actually... At the time they worked better than anything else.


90 percent of the time a grinding tranny isnt the syncro, its a worn sleeve. If it was the pressure plate... you wouldnt be able to put it in ANY gear up top (Have had that hhappen too when running a stupid stiff spring PP single disk clutch)... Dont worry bout the hole ;O). Ive run plenty of cases (And engine blocks) making ALOT of power with welded holes in them. LOL


BUT you havent told us if its grinding yet....

Mfoehrkolb

--- No grinding what so ever. Just go to from 2nd to 3rd and wont go into the gear (rpms drop a bit) and it pushes right into gear then. No grinding, no pop outs. At first i thought i was me being a dummy and just sucking... but i decided that after it always doing it run after run... it's just not me.

I'm not worried about the hole at all since its welded, i was just going to jb weld the thing since it was the size of an eraser tip... but i don't like being ghetto if i do not have to be.

From what i just said... What would be you best judgment on what is wrong? I honestly think i could do all this crap myself, i just don't have any diagrams or and specs to go by to check if everything within its perimeters.


As i said in the first post. Craigs @ epic told me everything seems fine, but not perfect since it isn't a freshly rebuilt trans... but nothing alarming to make him think there would be problems.

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

Wierd.. Almost does seem like a PP issue (but it wouldnt do it ONLY in 3rd.), but no way to accurately diagnose without seeing the trans apart myself honestly. I just don

Mfoehrkolb

--- Spoke to craig again, he is going to install a new slider, sleeve, syncro and something else. He also welded the hole shut, and the total is going to be 250$. Not bad... as long as it actually fixes the problem. No reason to be rebuilding my entire motor and doing the car up to put a inferior shifting trans back in.

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

Thats definately a fair deal.

Mfoehrkolb

--- Yeah not bad. Hopefully this fixes my problem. After i paint my bay, and finish polishing up some of my aluminum parts, weld my exhaust together and drive the car... ill update this accordingly.

Mishako129

So did it fix your problem? My h23 trans is doing this exact thing except in 4th. I believe that it could have something to do with my shfitter since its a prelude shifter and not originally for my accord... Maybe its the way I am engaging the clutch I don't know.