Originally Posted by Civic361

ok this is an old post but I need help I have the same test light but mine is red for hot...ok and green when I touch the neg....is this normal??

Originally Posted by fcm

So what part of "simple" do you guys not understand, this test is for someone without test equipment, they can do a simple test with a test light.

I do not care how new the car is, if it is 12V the test will work, it may not be definitive, it is just a simple basic test that someone that keeps running into a dead batt. can try and use to trace where the draw is.

This is what I do for a living, [Dave Ward Auto Electric] and yes, I have $5000 in test equipment for car electrical, but for a basic quick test the 12V test light works, we use it almost every day on all MM&Y of cars, if more testing is need then the $800 Fluke comes out, pretty sure most people on here do not have $800 multi meters or $2500 AVRs and so on.

How about we do not deprive someone of a simple test that could end up saving them 100s of dollars in diagnostic charges, because the the trunk light is staying on.


B18ek, if you do not like it here, don't come back, simple. 94

BTW thanks for bumping the tread.

Originally Posted by Dave Velasquez

I'm hoping you can give me some advise....I did the test light and ended up with every fuse out and light still on. But, i removes my alternator plug and light goes off. I just replaced the alternator last week, but that is when my problem started. Do you think this means it's a defective alternator?
thank you in advance for your expertise!