how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual?
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how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual?
what numpers/leters aout of the whole code sequence tell you if the ecu is for a car with an Automatic or Manual Transmission?
Please help ASAP!
Please help ASAP!
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Re: how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual? (b18cls1)
I meant, when shopping for an ecu, there usually is a code on the side. I was just wondering what sequence tells if it's auto or manual. It's hard to take it apart, especially when shopping online.
Also, for now I want to go OBD-2, I’ll do OBD-1 next spring.
Also, for now I want to go OBD-2, I’ll do OBD-1 next spring.
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Re: how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual? (d16rice)
If you're going to go obd1 why waste the money and get another obd2 ecu for? I suggest you just wait and do the obd1 conversion in a one shot deal.
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Re: how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual? (JDM_Honda_Fiend)
I want to do OBD-2 first for a good reason. First of all I'll have to go pass the emissions early next year. With my exhaust system and OBD-1 it'll be next to impossible (all aftermarket exhaust from the exhaust ports of the head to the tip of the muffler).
Secondly, I need the car by Sep. 20th. Don't have time to tune and mess around with OBD-1 conversion at this time.
As for the plugs, which set is it, first, middle or last.
I would still appreciate if some one could check the code.
I know the first set of digits is the same for all hondas, and the second one (p28 or p2p) tells you what engine it goes with. It must be the last set of digits that specify the transmission. Any idea which is what?
Secondly, I need the car by Sep. 20th. Don't have time to tune and mess around with OBD-1 conversion at this time.
As for the plugs, which set is it, first, middle or last.
I would still appreciate if some one could check the code.
I know the first set of digits is the same for all hondas, and the second one (p28 or p2p) tells you what engine it goes with. It must be the last set of digits that specify the transmission. Any idea which is what?
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#8
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Re: how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual? (d16rice)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I meant, when shopping for an ecu, there usually is a code on the side. I was just wondering what sequence tells if it's auto or manual. It's hard to take it apart, especially when shopping online.
Also, for now I want to go OBD-2, I’ll do OBD-1 next spring.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
usually, on an AUTO ecu, the part number sticker's last digits will have a range of '50, 51, etc'.
for example: 37820-PCT-N50
the "5x" is a dead giveaway for an Auto ecu.
Also, for now I want to go OBD-2, I’ll do OBD-1 next spring.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
usually, on an AUTO ecu, the part number sticker's last digits will have a range of '50, 51, etc'.
for example: 37820-PCT-N50
the "5x" is a dead giveaway for an Auto ecu.
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Re: how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual? (Katman)
Thank you, this should make the hunt a little easier.
How much should I expect to spend on an OBD-2 ecu.
Also, when I looked on eBay, every one calls them ecu, but in local stores, they’re called ecm. Why?
How much should I expect to spend on an OBD-2 ecu.
Also, when I looked on eBay, every one calls them ecu, but in local stores, they’re called ecm. Why?
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Re: how do you tell if an ECU is for auto or manual? (Katman)
I heard that d16, b16 and b18 can use the same ecu's, but then why is honda labeling them differently.
Does it matter what ecu I use (p2p, p72, ect...) for a d16 engine? Is one of them better than the other?
Does it matter what ecu I use (p2p, p72, ect...) for a d16 engine? Is one of them better than the other?
#11
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yes. some have more fuel and more timing then the other. Getting a P72 and running it on a D16 eng. does not mean you will get better results then a p2p or any other ecus.
you have to find the best fuel map, timing map and vtec engagement point for your eng. and just because Billy has the same eng and he makes 10 hp more then you does not mean that you can have the same with your car with the same parts he is using. 98ctr
you have to find the best fuel map, timing map and vtec engagement point for your eng. and just because Billy has the same eng and he makes 10 hp more then you does not mean that you can have the same with your car with the same parts he is using. 98ctr
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Re: (98ctr)
I'm new at this and have no idea how to check all those things you talk about. Maybe you know which one would be better for me. I have a d16y7 block with y8 head and a bunch of bolt-ons (pulleys, intake, exhaust, nitrous ect.).
#13
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get the gsr ecu. my girlfriend got 117 hp and 106 tq at the wheels on a dyno with bolt ons and a gsr ecu. But that does not mean that you will get that with your because all the stuff you have on your car might get more or less hp. 98ctr
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Re: (98ctr)
Was she running a vtec, I thought those should be a minimum of 115 (vtec-e) and 127 (vtec) with no upgrades.
What engine does she have?
What engine does she have?
#15
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Re: (d16rice)
d16rice,
what exact year is your car?
Reason I ask is because I have a US 96-99 (OBD2a) GSR/P72 ecu for sale ($150 shipped).
On a side note...
ECU/ECM = the same thing ie. Electronic Control Module/Unit
The reason Honda has different ecu/ecm part numbers is to correlate them to the engine they're designed for.
The programming on each type of ecu/ecm can differ too, in most respect to the engine's liter size & VTEC crossover point & redline (and a few other things).
That's why if you use a DOHC VTEC ecu w/your SOHC VTEC engine it will more than likely run richer (dumping more fuel) than with a SOHC ecu. If you stick with a SOHC VTEC EX ecu (P2P) it will run just about perfect with your engine, because you're basically mimicking a D16Y8 engine by having your 1.6 DX engine block w/a D16Y8 head, and the P2P ecu's programming (fuel + timing maps, vtec crossover, and redline) is all specifically designed for that type of stock engine setup. There's a few additional variables too, but thats the jist of it...
Btw, I think I just killled the opportunity in selling my GSR ecu to you now...lol
what exact year is your car?
Reason I ask is because I have a US 96-99 (OBD2a) GSR/P72 ecu for sale ($150 shipped).
On a side note...
ECU/ECM = the same thing ie. Electronic Control Module/Unit
The reason Honda has different ecu/ecm part numbers is to correlate them to the engine they're designed for.
The programming on each type of ecu/ecm can differ too, in most respect to the engine's liter size & VTEC crossover point & redline (and a few other things).
That's why if you use a DOHC VTEC ecu w/your SOHC VTEC engine it will more than likely run richer (dumping more fuel) than with a SOHC ecu. If you stick with a SOHC VTEC EX ecu (P2P) it will run just about perfect with your engine, because you're basically mimicking a D16Y8 engine by having your 1.6 DX engine block w/a D16Y8 head, and the P2P ecu's programming (fuel + timing maps, vtec crossover, and redline) is all specifically designed for that type of stock engine setup. There's a few additional variables too, but thats the jist of it...
Btw, I think I just killled the opportunity in selling my GSR ecu to you now...lol
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Re: (Katman)
I do appreciate the offer and especially the help.
Since I just replaced my whole suspension and paid for college, I don't have much money to spend.
I did find a great deal on an HX (P2N) ecu. Would this be a good match for my mini-me? Would it even work?
Also if any one knows, since I heard that OBD2 couldn’t be chipped, which one engages vtec sooner (p2n, p2p or p2t)?
Since I just replaced my whole suspension and paid for college, I don't have much money to spend.
I did find a great deal on an HX (P2N) ecu. Would this be a good match for my mini-me? Would it even work?
Also if any one knows, since I heard that OBD2 couldn’t be chipped, which one engages vtec sooner (p2n, p2p or p2t)?
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Re: (d16rice)
I’d like to share my findings. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
I noticed that the first sequence (5 digits) is identical for all Honda/Acura cars, so it doesn’t do much.
The second sequence (3 digits) tell us what engine the ecu goes with.
The third sequence (3 digits) tell us what transmission it goes with.
I still don’t know that the big letters (AWL, ARM, etc..) or the rest of the numbers stand for.
ECU/EMC CODE LETTER OTHER #’s YEAR MAKER MODEL Trim OBD TRANNY
37820-P28-A02 AWL 760-840433 92-95 Honda Civic EX 1 5-speed
37820-P28-A01 ARM 760-620375 92-95 Honda Civic/CRX EX 1 5-speed
37820-P06-A02 AUI 740-327690 95 Honda Civic LX 1 5-speed
37820-P06-L00 AP? 742-501219 92-95 Honda Civic DX 1 5-speed
37820-P2T-A11 Z4 99-00 Honda Civic Si 2 5-speed
37820-P2P-A31 99-00 Honda Civic EX 2 5-speed
37820-P2E-A12 59 1200-246675 99-00 Honda Civic LX 2 5-speed
37820-P2E-L01 EF 901-115146 96 Honda Civic DX 2 (5-speed?)
37820-P2E-L02 LG 901-200297 96-98 Honda Civic DX 2 (5-speed?)
37820-P2P-A34 UP 921-322852 96-98 Honda Civic EX 2 5-speed
37820-P2E-A71 ER 260-175174 96-98 Honda Civic DX 2 (automatic?)
37820-P72-A02 G1 970-102606 96 Acura Integra GSR 2 5-speed
37820-P2N-A61 1111-301713 96-98 Honda Civic HX 2 CVT
37820-P2N-A31 297-302848 96-98 Honda Civic HX 2 (5-speed?)
37820-P75-A53 981-202919 98 Acura Integra LS 2 Automatic
This is my conclusion for now:
ECU/ENGINE
P06 – 1.5l SOHC ----- OBD1 - LX, DX
P28 – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD1 - EX, Si
P2E – 1.6l SOHC ----- OBD2 - CX, DX, LX
P2T – 1.6l DOHC Vtec OBD2 - Si
P2N – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD2 - HX
P2P – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD2 - EX
P72 – 1.8l DOHC Vtec OBD2 - GSR
P75 – 1.8l DOHC ----- OBD2 - LS
ECU/TRANSMISSION
A50 and up Automatic
A61 CVT
A under 50 manual
L under 50 manual
I noticed that the first sequence (5 digits) is identical for all Honda/Acura cars, so it doesn’t do much.
The second sequence (3 digits) tell us what engine the ecu goes with.
The third sequence (3 digits) tell us what transmission it goes with.
I still don’t know that the big letters (AWL, ARM, etc..) or the rest of the numbers stand for.
ECU/EMC CODE LETTER OTHER #’s YEAR MAKER MODEL Trim OBD TRANNY
37820-P28-A02 AWL 760-840433 92-95 Honda Civic EX 1 5-speed
37820-P28-A01 ARM 760-620375 92-95 Honda Civic/CRX EX 1 5-speed
37820-P06-A02 AUI 740-327690 95 Honda Civic LX 1 5-speed
37820-P06-L00 AP? 742-501219 92-95 Honda Civic DX 1 5-speed
37820-P2T-A11 Z4 99-00 Honda Civic Si 2 5-speed
37820-P2P-A31 99-00 Honda Civic EX 2 5-speed
37820-P2E-A12 59 1200-246675 99-00 Honda Civic LX 2 5-speed
37820-P2E-L01 EF 901-115146 96 Honda Civic DX 2 (5-speed?)
37820-P2E-L02 LG 901-200297 96-98 Honda Civic DX 2 (5-speed?)
37820-P2P-A34 UP 921-322852 96-98 Honda Civic EX 2 5-speed
37820-P2E-A71 ER 260-175174 96-98 Honda Civic DX 2 (automatic?)
37820-P72-A02 G1 970-102606 96 Acura Integra GSR 2 5-speed
37820-P2N-A61 1111-301713 96-98 Honda Civic HX 2 CVT
37820-P2N-A31 297-302848 96-98 Honda Civic HX 2 (5-speed?)
37820-P75-A53 981-202919 98 Acura Integra LS 2 Automatic
This is my conclusion for now:
ECU/ENGINE
P06 – 1.5l SOHC ----- OBD1 - LX, DX
P28 – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD1 - EX, Si
P2E – 1.6l SOHC ----- OBD2 - CX, DX, LX
P2T – 1.6l DOHC Vtec OBD2 - Si
P2N – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD2 - HX
P2P – 1.6l SOHC Vtec OBD2 - EX
P72 – 1.8l DOHC Vtec OBD2 - GSR
P75 – 1.8l DOHC ----- OBD2 - LS
ECU/TRANSMISSION
A50 and up Automatic
A61 CVT
A under 50 manual
L under 50 manual
#21
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Re: (d16rice)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also if any one knows, since I heard that OBD2 couldn’t be chipped, which one engages vtec sooner (p2n, p2p or p2t)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you heard right. OBD2 can't be chipped persay, although there are companies out there that can reprogram OBD2 ecu's but its $$$. Almost not worth it; it would be better to run a Hondata or AEM EMS system or some other fully reprogrammable ecu.
Your best bet is to run the EX/P2P ecu...it engages vtec the earliest (4800rpm I believe). Using an accord ecu or any other ecu isn't suggest, just because those other ecu's are not specifically designed for your poorman's D16Y8 setup...The P2P ecu is your golden child...or converting to OBD1 and using a P28 ecu.
trust us....we know what we're talking about.
Also if any one knows, since I heard that OBD2 couldn’t be chipped, which one engages vtec sooner (p2n, p2p or p2t)?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, you heard right. OBD2 can't be chipped persay, although there are companies out there that can reprogram OBD2 ecu's but its $$$. Almost not worth it; it would be better to run a Hondata or AEM EMS system or some other fully reprogrammable ecu.
Your best bet is to run the EX/P2P ecu...it engages vtec the earliest (4800rpm I believe). Using an accord ecu or any other ecu isn't suggest, just because those other ecu's are not specifically designed for your poorman's D16Y8 setup...The P2P ecu is your golden child...or converting to OBD1 and using a P28 ecu.
trust us....we know what we're talking about.
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Re: (98ctr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your other option it would be to run your dx ecu and use a rpm switch to run your vtec off. Then you can adjust your vtec to fit your needs. 98ctr</TD></TR></TABLE>
um, im not sure if i understand your explaination but to do it the right way, you at least need your ECU wired for vtec, which the DX unfortunately isnt.
um, im not sure if i understand your explaination but to do it the right way, you at least need your ECU wired for vtec, which the DX unfortunately isnt.