S2kjulian

So I just swapped a b16a into my eg hatch it's boosted it was on another hatch but that motor had rod knock but it was stock so I changed the longblock and kept everything else and when I start this new motor it turns on fine then it will die and when I restart it sounds like a Subaru and loss of power is noticeable and I did compression test and it was 120 all across and it's leaking oil around head gasket all around almost it has oil on it but the head bolts are tight they are arp does anyone know what it could be? Thank you very much

jjaayyssoonn

vacuum leak in charge pipes or bad map sensor wbmg

120 is bad tho

motoxxxman

charge pipes don't see vacuum, so a vacuum leak in charge pipes is impossible..
bad map sensor wbmg? huh? you mean wiring? highly doubtful.

to the OP. do a valve lash adjustment. then another compression test.

what cams does it have? what internals? was thatcompression test hot or cold? try some punctuation. once you get all the mechanical issues fixed, get a professional tune, I'm 100% certain it needs one.

S2kjulian

I did valve adjustment right before putting motor in and it's stock motor and I got it up to temperature then shut it off and went to get compression tester from autozone and came back and did it.

Oh and it was tuned already on chrome on last motor they are both stock b16a I just swapped motor

Anyone?

JRCivic1

Assuming you did the compression test correctly, and your valve adjustment is correct... you have a bad engine.

S2kjulian

What do you mean bad it will start and drive still . Old owner said he reused head gasket when he put arp head studs could that be the problem or rings worn out evenly?

JRCivic1

120 psi is not high enough to consistently combust any cylinder in that engine... it may start and run, but it should sound hurt and there should be noticeable misses while driving and idling. If it seems to drive fine... then it is likely that your compression tester is not reading correctly. If your diagnostic tools aren't up to spec, you don't really know you have a problem. If the car runs fine as you say, WHY would you do a compression check ???

It is never recommended to reuse a head gasket after it has been heated up to operating temperature... so if the head comes off or is moved after the engine has run to temp, you replace it. Are your ARP head studs properly torqued at this point ??? Could be worn rings, but it is unlikely that it is even across all four cylinders. More likely that the engine rings set was built loose. Who knows for sure...

holmesnmanny

sounds like your tester maxes out at 120

atanatas

head gasket is the 1st thing you throw off, once you remove the head... I can't stand it had repeat...
you crush it to seal head to bottom end.
​​​​​​sorry but reading the manuals will help you on your next rebuild.
no matter the ARP studs, there are plenty of exchange with new marked parts when you assemble the block back.
You will need to check also block and head deck,
eventually resurface if needed.
as pointed p. Rings clearances, valve seal, gauge the valve limits.
and more...
​​​​​

S2kjulian

Guy I bought motor from never ran it he said he used same head gasket but never put motor in car and I did compression test because it starts fine then it'll die and when I restart sounds like a Subaru and it will die unless I hold gas and it started leaking alittle bit of oil around head gasket. Like not dripping but it has oil that came through it and I've only drove it around the block so idk why it would do that already

S2kjulian

How can I post a video on here so you guys can hear it

S2kjulian

Here is vid

S2kjulian

Another one

S2kjulian

so I got it running better and it will stay on and I can do a burnout and stuff but when I go to drive it and step on it in higher rpms it feels like it loses power or bogs or something then turns off then when I start it back up it sounds like i said before like a Subaru then I just turn it off and on like 3 times and it sounds normal and I can rev it and do burn out and stuff no problem

holmesnmanny

Were you able ever to figure out the compression test 120 psi max out issue ? Did you wind up getting another tester ? What were the new numbers ?

S2kjulian

well I had wideband but wasn't hooked up so once I hooked it up it started idling good and running good and I can get on it now all good that might have been problem a/f was probably messed up cause it connects to ecu