coop94ls

I wonder if any of you techs can advise me on this. I think have decided to stay all motor with my LS. My goal is to get 175 hp at the wheels and still being able to drive it daily and keep it reliable. Is this some thing that can be achieved? Im sure it will not be cheap to do. What would it take to make that much power on an LS?

I already have Cold Air Intake, DC 4-2-1 Ceramic Header, and DC Cat-Back Exhaust.

Thanks guys,

Coop

Jared

Have the head ported and have bigger valves put in it so that it will flow like a DOHC VTEC head. Then match the head with a set of still valve springs, titanium retainers, and a big set of cams. Have an ITR intake manifold matched to the head. Use an ITR or H22 t/b. Run about 11:1 c/r and also, definitely have something to tune the car with. Preferrable a Zdyne, Haltech, Hondata, but a V-AFC would work as well if you are trying to do this on a budget.
good luck

accordking

or you can just get one of these........

TurboInteg95

Do you want to stay NonVtec or not? the best way would be VTEC head swap. Otherwise you'll have to get some big cams and then you'll be sacrificing driveability

raene

I'd definitely agree. Allmotor = high RPMs, and you're not going to get high RPMs as easily unless you do a VTEC head swap. The LS/VTEC should put you at about 180hp/130tq at the flywheel, which is a damn good start.

sohc_boy

a ported ls head w/ the right cams will spin like crazy, i would say stick w/ your ls and swap the trans for a gsr.

optiontoo

With a high-powered B18B you will need to rev it, and the B18B doesn't respond too well to high RPM. It boils down to, rebuild the bottom end now or rebuild it later. You'd be best off (IMHO) doing the LS/VTEC swap but freshening the bottom end, ARP rod bolts and installing the B18C1 under-piston oil squirters. If you used forged pistons, you can skip the oil squirters. They're about $120 new from dealer.

MrDX

No way... Stick to the LS with a GSR tranny. Have the head p&p'd, 5 angle valve job, with new valve and valve springs, Skunk2 LS cams, cam gears, ported OE throttle body, ported intake manifold, hi-flo intank fuel pump, fpr, cold air intake, a good quality ceramic coated header, 2.25" exhaust system, good upgraded clutch, lightend flywheel, Quaife LSD, tuned ECU with removed fuel cut and increased rev-limiter to 9000rpm. As far as the bottom end... I'd suggest the stroker kit with hi compression pistons(11:1) <-- Not only will it increase the torque, it'll also give a nice bump in horsepower. Reason not to go V-tec, is running of extra wiring and making the tuning that much more difficult. This set-up should produce an honest and reliable 170-190hp to the wheels with 140-150ft/lbs of torque. Which even if you decide to later go turbo or s/c, you can seeing huge gains in horsepower with 5-6psi of boost.

kar_nut

Do you have any personal experience with this type of setup? I know in general that stroker kits do not like to be revved, especially higher than stock redline. By stroking the engine, you're migrating towards an even more unfavorable R/S ratio along with increasing piston speeds. Just wondering if you've seen one of these kits log a healthy 60k mile life with that kind of redline.

MrDX

I've seen it done to a Type-R at a local shop here in Miami... The Redline at 9000 isn't bad, that the max it's to be pushed. Most people who adjust the rev-limiter remove it, which is the worst thing you could do. I honestly think power can be had upto 8500rpm with the proper tuning of cam gear's, sufficient fuel, and spark.

stick

LS/VTEC all the way and get a better flowing header

non-VTEC

I wouldent rev a stock LS bottom end to 9000rpm heck anything over 8k is nuts.

A stroker kit will just take an already bad rod to stroke ratio of the B18B and make it even worse. A stoker kit does not like high RPM. It's a low RPM high torque/HP engine. you should never stroke a Honda engine if you want it to last.

you want 175whp N/A on a LS. that's simple.

good ported cylinder head (Port-Flow, Endyn, Leitener & Bush)
Crower 62403 or 62404 cams, dual valve springs, ti-retainers
adjustible cam gears
DC JDM 4-1 header with 2.5" hight flow cat and custom 2.5" exhaust
Skunk2 intake manifold
over bored T/B
B&M FPR
Apexi S-AFC
Custom ECU with 8000rpm fuel cut off
JDM ITR pistons with ARP rod bolts on stock rods or upgrade to eagle or crower rods.
lightend flywheel and heavy duty clutch
GS-R tranny

with some dyno tuning you should easily hit 170-180whp. and lots of torque usable in the lower RPM band.

good luck

MrDX

Not true... JUN's stroker kit, i know for a fact, includes a new crankshaft and the appropriate sized rod so that the rod angle ratio stays the same. That's a direct quote from Mike at JUN. As far as Crower... their kit uses longer and lighter rods than factory, thus increasing the rod ratio and making the piston travel in a straighter form than factory causing less leakdown from the rings, thus more combustion in the chamber equalling more horsepower. Also with a higher rod ratio, a cam design with less overlap can be used to create even more horsepower, because the less likelyhood of blow-by happening.

non-VTEC

so then it's not a stoker kit. all JUN will provide is new stronger/balanced internals. stoker kits usually increase the diplacment and change the rod to stroke ratio to provide more power but at the sacrafice of durability. with the money JUN probably wants you can go out and buy

with a rod to stroke ratio of 1.53:1 of the B18B it is not able to handle extreme high rpm. even with a block girdle and stronger rods and balanced crank. it will deffinatly last longer than a stock bottom end but in no way is it a 9000rpm reliable engine. it will take the stress for a while but the extreme stress of those engine speeds will just kill the rod bearings. with a rod to stroke ratio of 1.53:1 at 9000+rpm the pistons will be traveling faster than some F1 race car pistons. that's why certian B17 and B16's dont have a block girdle because the rod to stroke ratio is almost ideal and there is hardly and stress/wear on the bottom end so there is no need for a girdle.

RPM=Ruins Peoples Motors

MrDX

No cause increasing the bore to 85mm and the stroke to 90mm will increase the displacement and since the right sized rod is used because of the different style piston the rod ratio would be able to stay the same... BTW, not to be **** but, the B18B runs a 1.54:1 rod ratio... and the B16A2 runs a 1.74:1 rod ratio and most F1 cars run upto 2.2:1... but that's because it's 1.5L V8 in the Honda Indy Car that's capable of revving upto 15,000rpm!

non-VTEC

oh you never mentioned that they re-sleeve the block to 85mm...........anyway you can easily get a B20 block from a CRV which has 84mm cylinders and built on that. it's a very stong engine and can be made to make serious power.

rod to stroke ratio of the B18B is 1.539.1 so 1.54:1 is close enough.