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Compression #'s on B18B1
I just did a compression test on my motor and came up with these #'s: 160, 150, 150, 165
Based on the other numbers I've seen posted on the board, they seem a bit low. Any ideas to why? The motor has 140k - Time for an overhaul? |
Re: Compression #'s on B18B1 (sdinteg)
as long as they are all close you'd be fine. I would do a leakdown test though.
Chris |
Re: Compression #'s on B18B1 (sdinteg)
it could be time for an overhaul. but consider this bro; comp #'s are also affected by engine comp ration. your b18b1 came with 9.2 to 1. this means that your numbers will naturally be a little lower then say a gst or b16. id look at other ls comp checks to see how they came out. this way youll know what a good condition motor puts out. then youll have a base for your own numbers. peace!
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Re: Compression #'s on B18B1 (BigHeadKid)
Compression tests suck ass.
Its too standard on this website to rely solely on compression readings. Compression is a really horrible test to tell you that your motor is fucked or not. (for the most part) Do a leakdown test. It tells you loads more than compression. Bent valves, Blown HG, Washed/Damaged rings. -s |
Re: Compression #'s on B18B1 (sander)
true. but a comp check is just a start though.
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Re: Compression #'s on B18B1 (BigHeadKid)
Geez, I gotta paste this somewhere so I don't have to write it 400 more times...
Compression #s depend on lots of things. 1 - Internal volume of the gauge (including extension hose). 2 - Where's the check-valve located inside the gauge. 3 - Oil temperature & viscosity. 4 - Starter RPM. 5 - Throttle (should be WOT). 6 - Engine (CR & cams). Don't compare actual #s unless all that stuff is the same. You can't just say 'it's a stock LS' & ignore all those other things... |
Re: Compression #'s on B18B1 (JimBlake)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Geez, I gotta paste this somewhere so I don't have to write it 400 more times...
Compression #s depend on lots of things. 1 - Internal volume of the gauge (including extension hose). 2 - Where's the check-valve located inside the gauge. 3 - Oil temperature & viscosity. 4 - Starter RPM. 5 - Throttle (should be WOT). 6 - Engine (CR & cams). Don't compare actual #s unless all that stuff is the same. You can't just say 'it's a stock LS' & ignore all those other things... </TD></TR></TABLE> And people ask me why they suck for comparison purposes. -s |
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