fuckaBitch16

I just swapped my jdm b20b into my 91 integra. I converted to obd1 and am using a 93 obd1 integra distributor, and the obd1 pr4 ecu from the 93 integra. Before I swapped the motor in I had it on an engine stand for quite some time. I removed the inner timing belt covers and the top outer cover to give it a more clean looking appearance. I did have to take the timing belt off to get the inner covers off. When I reinstalled the timing belt, I double checked the crank position and cam gear positions over and over again to make sure they were in the right place.

I first set the number one piston at tdc and lined the white mark on the crank pulley up with the timing mark on the lover timing cover. I then set the cam gears to the up position and lined up the tdc marks on the cam gears. Everything looked good and I tightened up the tensioner and buttoned everything up. I repeatedly turned the crank over afterwards and watched the position of the cam gears as I lined up the white mark on the crank pulley. They lined up perfectly over and over again. I am convinced the crank and cam timing is dead on. Now for the ignition timing.

Me and my friend started the motor, and it turned over beautifully after been sitting for about 2 years since I bought it. It idled high at first like it was supposed to, then idled down as the motor warmed up. It seemed very responsive and snappy. I'm sure if the cam timing was off a tooth or so I would have noticed and it would not run this good. So we decided to get the timing light out and set the ignition timing to get the finishing touches done. As to my understanding, it is supposed to be 16 degrees, plus or minus 2, before top dead center. Well we loosened up the distributor, hooked the timing light to the number one spark plug wire, and set the gun to 16 degrees. With the distributor fully advanced, we could only get 5, 6 degrees of advance out of the distributor before we could not turn it anymore! The distributor is fully advanced, with no more room to move, and the ignition timing is sitting steady at 5-6 degrees btdc. The red mark is perfectly lined up with the mark on the lower timing belt cover when I am looking at the timing light which is reading 5-6 degrees.

Am I using the wrong distributor? If it is not the cam timing, what else could be wrong? I know being off 10 degrees is not right, and I know I'm missing out on some low end mid range power, although the motor runs like a champ, and pulls beautifully after 5 grand and all the way till 7, I know it is not right. I want to get this problem resolved asap! Any and all help and ideas will be greatly appreciated.

non-VTEC

what does the timing light read when you flash it on the white mark?

if you are not sure go outside and try it.

DonF

Use the white mark with an adj. timing light, as suggested above. I think you are around 20 degrees.

fuckaBitch16

If you did not know, you dont set ignition timing using the white mark. The white mark is for crank and cam positioning only. In order to get the light to even show up on the white mark and the pointer, I would have to retard the distributor as much as I possibly can, and I dont even think it would go that far. I cant just flash it on the white mark because the white mark is not lined up with the pointer on the timing cover. So what would I be gaining by flashing the timing light on the white mark? If it is not lined up with the pointer, then there is no measurements to go by. And If I did get the white mark to line up with the pointer, what would that tell me? Is there any degree on the timing gun that would tell me anything useful? Because I have never heard of this. I know for a fact that you set your ignition timing using the red mark, not the white mark, and the white mark is for aligning crank and cam purposes only in which you dont use a timing gun for.

fuckaBitch16

Ok if I am supposed to use the white mark to set my ignition timing, then what is the red mark and the two increment lines on both sides of the red mark for? Each line represents plus or minus two degrees of ignition timing. The red mark is specifically for setting the ignition timing, and the white mark is for crank and cam alignment.

DonF

That is for a standard timing light azzhole. i am really suprised some one with you talent, actually has an adjustable timing light. Just get a $19.95 timing light at PEP-Boys and use the red mark. Much easier to understand. No math requred.

inspyral

If you use a non-adjustable light, then you use the red/brown markings on the crank pulley to set timing since it's basically direct-read. If you're using an adjustable light you're supposed to use the white mark since the light will delay its pulses to line up with the white mark based on how much timing advance/retard you dial-in to it. If you're still confused about it, just set your light to 0 and use the marks on the crank.

fuckaBitch16

I did not know that when using an adjustable timing light you are supposed to use the white mark. I was right about the red mark being for ignition timing, but just not all the way correct. I was mislead by the book, which states to use the red indicator mark on the pulley, and it does not specify which timing gun to use. Thanks for the info, I cleared up my timing issue. It was 25 degrees btdc, and now i have it set at 18. I looked for signs of detonation and found none so I dont think I did any damage and I think im ok.

I have one more question. I converted to obd1 so do I still use the same procedure to set the timing by jumping the service connector by the heater blower on the passenger side? That is the one I used. Or do you not have to do jump it at all since I'm obd1, or does it make a difference? What does jumping that connector do? Thanks

inspyral

Yes, I believe you're still supposed to jump the service connector to disable the IACV and keep the cooling fan from coming on, I think. I'm usually lazy and I just make sure the engine is warm and idling normally with the cooling fan off while I'm setting the timing. As long as the engine is warmed up then the IACV shouldn't be affecting the idle anyway, but you can jump the service connector to be sure.

GhostAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by inspyral &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As long as the engine is warmed up then the IACV shouldn't be affecting the idle anyway, but you can jump the service connector to be sure.</TD></TR></TABLE>

When the engine is up to operating temp and the IACV is operating it will raise your idle 100-150 RPM's.

Yes you are supposed to short the connector for OBD1. It puts the ECU into diagnostics mode. It is no longer running off of an ignition map, it's running on the base ignition only. Also make sure you shut everything off inside the car (radio, heater, A/C, lights) when you set your base idle & base timing. Better to do it the correct way and be sure.

fuckaBitch16

is it still the same service connector that I would use for obd0? Or is it the blue plug on the left side of the passenger side..