Beastcivic

Hey Guys,

Probably posted this on 1000 forum's, but I have a 'weird' Head-gasket problem,

My Setup
D16y8 Ported head, zex 105300 cam,
D16y7 Bottem End, Arias forged piston's
9.2:1 Comp ratio

This Time I tried the ARP's at 75ft/pds with 30wt motor oil, done this the same in the 3rd head-gasket just with ARP moly.

As soon as I hit boost in 3rd (14psi), it pushes coolant. It doesn't do it in first and second, just 3rd and above.


Also If I run 10psi of boost only, I can run all day with no head-lift at all, only when I raise the boost, problem's start.

Also when I pull the head-gasket's out, they seem absolutely fine, they don't look blown at all.

The surfaces are dead flat (both decked), timing is very very conservative about 12degree's total)

I don't wanna give up on this car, but I can only take so much.

Someone please help.

Perfectionist

Welcome, noob. Nice detail in your post, thanks.

You seem to have all the basics covered (decked surfaces, torqued to spec), so I don't have any real suggestions for you. The only stupid thing I can think of is... is your gasket suitable for your application or is there a better one out there you should be using?

(free bump for you anyway)

91SiZ6

Did you have the head and block checked for cracks?

khmboostedeh2

possible that the studs are backing out on you?

MotorMouth

Water ports on intake manifold side, try replacing the IM gasket.

PinkMaggit

I have heard reasons for D's and HG lots of them.

ARP's and other Aftermarket bolts back out. Run it for 10 heat cycles open it up and Re-Torque the bolts to Spec. Maybe replace these? there is a chance they are stretched out.

Timing (esp on y8 head) Bring it down to 10 total. try this?

Sleev walk at higher boost levels - solution - GE blockguard-
shaved down a tad so its a little looser then hammering it in. Still have to force it in, but only with your hands not a hammer/Mallot. (Havent tried the shaving personally, I just recently found this out and will be doing it next build )

I know a lot of people dont like blockguards. Doesnt hurt to try it for $100.

Cometic Headgasket with Copper Spray.

Beastcivic

Hey mate,

I have a Golden Eagle blockguard installed, I shaved it down, then inserted it in, then had the block bored and honed, as well as the head and block surfaces decked, aswell as x-rayed for cracks.

The ARP's are brand spanker's, but I didn't use any copper spray,

I think I might try some copper spray on my next one and bring the timing down to 10 like you say. When you say Re-Torque, do you mean loosen the bolts and then retighten?

Furyof4

How much were the head and block decked? Where the dowel pins cut down to compensate? Was the car overheated?

Beastcivic

The head and block were milled from memory 0.005" each, and I shaved the dowel pins down. The car hasn't overheated yet.

rip94delsol

have you tried torqing down the studs themselve ( hand tight 10ft pounds of torque) alot of engine builders use this method and so will i on my build!

good post by the way! this is what a post should look like noobs!

Beastcivic

Hmmm, No I haven't tried torqing the studs down themselves, Thats a good piece of info there, I will give it a shot,

rtype11

ARP generally asks for extra 20lbs torque over stock using 30wt oil., were your stock head bolts rated for 55LBs? also you may want to use another torque wrench also the additional sticktion from using 30wt oil over arp lube may be giving you improper readings.