turbo_civicd16

Hey guys been a long time since I've been here and I need some help. I bought a 1996 accord ex 4 door for my daughter for graduation and we've run into some problems. The car drove great after I did a motor/tranny replacement due to blown head gasket (bought this way) and tyranny damage (never use impacts to tighten cooling lines ). One day the car starts to stall on her at stop lights (thinking relay of course) then It dies on her as shes doing about 40..she pulls over gets it restarted and brings it home. I go to restart it to see if I can reproduce the issue and it refuses to fire up. Cranks great no issue there and I've replaced a bunch of stuff listed below. Please keep in mind she drove it home and parked it in front of the house and thats where she sits.

Items replaced/repaired in my quest to resolve the issue.

New timing belt water pump (timing is dead on verified 3 different times) done during motor swap
New Crank Position Sensor
New Plugs
New Coil
New Igniter
newer cap, rotor and wires
New ignition switch
New fuel filter
Main relay kicks on pushes fuel to filter (confirmed during fuel filter change)
Main relay ordered but they sent the wrong one waiting on replacement (existing one seems to work as its giving me the 2 sec click and check engine light goes off)
No codes per jumper harness
Car has spark (checked off of number 4 wire)
Appears to have fuel.
All ground wires confirmed intact checked and reset

Things I plan to do next couple of days are to get the new main relay in but that doesn't appear to be the issue and to try to start with starter fluid. I only paid 500 bucks for the car and I've got about 800 in it on top of that and I'm really getting tired of messing with it. Junk prices are stupid low so Im trying to avoid that too. Any insight would be appreciated.

fcm

Did you use an HEI spark tester when checking for spark?
You say "Appears to have fuel" how did you check this, or are you assuming because you have fuel to the filter?
What is the fuel pressure? 94

turbo_civicd16

yes I used a 9 buck tester I got from autozone and not the plug,. It was this thing that inserted into the plug wire and clipped to the motor. I should've said I know I'm getting fuel 1. by hearing it load and 2 cracking the rail bolt and fuel flying everywhere. The more I think about it I'm wondering (will check) if I'm getting an injector pulse. When I get home tonight I'm gonna throw some starter fluid at it to see if she coughs or not. will keep you guys updated.

fcm

Just try starting the engine then immediately remove spark plugs and see if they are "wet" with fuel, if they are leave the plugs out overnight to air out the cylinders constant trying to start an engine that is getting fuel can "wash" the cylinder walls resulting in loss of compression, a compression test would eliminate/confirm this as a problem, a teaspoon or so of oil in each cylinder and cranked over a few time, ["bypass jump" or unplug the PGM-FI Main Relay so injectors do not spray more fuel] will normally solve this problem.

The stalling sounds more like a coil or ICM on it's last legs, as either one can be intermittent at first before full failure. 94

turbo_civicd16

Ok, she sputters with starter fluid and I've rechecked the grounds again. I've discovered I have power to the injector clips however there is no pulse verified via bulb test. Looking around I found that if you ground the a23/a24 lines off the ecu this sometimes works....not in my case however. It appears I may have a faulty ecu and I'm currently trolling ebay to find one. Will update with results unless someone has other suggestions.

fcm

Make sure IGP 1 and 2 at ECU BOTH have 12V+ when ign. is on AND when cranking to start.
Sorry do not know what pins are IGP 1 and 2 on your ECU but they are normally next to each other and have the same color wires as the injector pos. leads and will be the only two leads of that color going to the ECU, FYI they get their power from the PGM-FI Main Relay, [injector relay] just like the injectors do, hence the same color wires.

What I have run across is one of the IGP inputs has power but the other does not, problem is at connection point where the lead splits to the two inputs. 94