Ran4it2

Ive been reading online and Ive come across 2 methods for breaking in a new engine. I just rebuilt a B17 and Im wondering what method I should use.
Hard Break In
or
Soft Break In

Bugermass

Hard Break-In but is has to be done correctly and under the right conditions. If you've already started up and run the engine for more than 10-15 minutes or put any load on it then its already to late..

1992Si

I got a good paper from Laskey Racing that Earl wrote a few years back on this subject.

Check out www.laskeyracing.com may be it's still there.

swhytech

What about the 10-15min warm up (idle) at first start ?

Anyway, from what i have read a hard brake-in is what most experienced people recommend...

Blown90hatcH

There are so many theories. You would be surprised what Honda does.

Before I fire it up, I turn it over to build oil pressure. Then I fire it up and let it idle for 15 minutes making sure the AF is dead on. Then turn it off and drain the oil and change the filter. I only use non-detergent oil during this time. I fire it back up and warm it up and start street tuning it. 40-50% throttle up until around 5k and full decel. I do this about 10 times and then start tuning it from there. After I am done, I change the oil and filter again and put my normal oil in from there and I am done. I have built about 6 engines this way, all still surviving today.

Ran4it2

i want to hear your method burgermass
bump guys!!!
FYI im just a regular guy
no crazy tuning here
just standard break in
so i can take it to get tuned in a few weeks

swhytech

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Bugermass

LOL, ^^^^ i was gonna post that... I use the mototune method with slight variations. Been doing is this way for a very long time and have had consistantly good results.. Basically startup the car and get the A/F nailed in as soon as possible.. I actually keep the A/F in the 14s through the whole warmup until I reach operating temps, then I run through part throttle in long gears correcting A/F as I go and allowing for full vacum decells, each time taking the revs slightly higher. I don't do a cool down period during PT tuning so long as the ECTs are looking good. My goal is to get to WOT as soon as possible with the least amount running time on the rings. Once the part throttle is done I'll let er cool down for a few, then its WOT time. Simple as pie and works like a charm every time.

Ran4it2

bugermass
what if i dont have a a/f guage
or a chipped ecu let any tuning programs

Bugermass

ehh, well honestly if you don't have a way to monitor A/F and or adjust and you can't get it tuned for whatever reason, then the only thing you can do is cross your fingers and drive it lol.. I'd still recomend using moto mans method or my variation of it, it'll still be your best chance of a good break-in IMO.. Breaking it in slow in my opinion will always results in less than desireable ring seating. Just my opinions and how I do it..

Ran4it2

so bugermass
what should I do?
let it warmup
run through all gear like 1/2 throttle
and after that slowly raise the throttle more and more?

locash

Jason, I'm waiting to hear the Honda surprise..

Personally, I make sure the car starts and put it on the dyno and get it running.. Some quick part throttle tuning, and then beat the hell out of it.

GT35R_EF

We're in the process of breaking my motor in right now actually. Started it up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes, changed oil, then slowly started with partial throttle through each gear letting it decel each time. Just kept doing that through each gear slowly increasing throttle. Then changed oil, leakdown and compression and continued on.

1992Si

If you don't have the proper tune and any way to monitor the a/f and make adjustments, don't even bother starting the car. You can burn the pistons in a matter of minutes.

Take it to a tuner and let them start it and get it right the first time.

GhostAccord

What if this is a stock rebuild, the thread title doesn't make mention of a modified engine?

To answer the OP's original question

A. Hard Break in.(using the proper steps)

Ran4it2

i have a b17 with jdm b16 pistons and a freshly rebuild jdm b16 head
all oem everything new also!!

1992Si

So your telling us more info finally, I assumed you were asking how to do this for a built and boosted engine.

If it's stock, start it up let it run for 15 minutes try to keep rpm's about 1500 to 2000. let it idle for a few minutes. Shut it off, change the oil and filter, drive it.

Change the oil/filter at 500 miles, drive it, change oil/filter after 1500 more miles.

swhytech

How do i go about the Coolant ?

Is there enough time to fill the "engine/pipes/hoses" with coolant within 15min ? and possible get all the air out.

How do you guys do it ?

DEIVIONCRX

The coolant isnt very hard, just fill up the radiator and squeeze the lower rad hose till you can make the level in the radiator drop anymore, by that time you should have almost one whole gallon in the system. Then just start the car and do you breaking/warm up/tune stuff and keep a eye on the radiator level, fill it up again once the thermostat opens and sucks the level down some.

swhytech

Alright, thank you!

H24A96EK

on a dyno

srmofo

So how do you guys recommend doing a new turbo setup thats never been togther before???? I know you can start it and run it with stock injectors on stock maps, but once you start giving it throttle your gonna run into issues.....I know what the answer to this is, but I dont like the idea of never starting the car and taking it to a tuner....you guys know the stupid issues you run into sometimes (i.e. leaking fluids, bad idle, no start, ect.) and I hate wasting peoples time.....Ill probaly just start it, do the idle warm up, check for leaks, make sure everythings good maybe take it around the block a few times for the 20% throttle stuff and then park it on the trailer.....and do the oil change.

1992Si

I have learned to jack up the right front corner of the car as high as you can. Then open the air vent and bleed the system, also open/turn on the heater once the engine has warmed up.

1992Si

DO NOT drive it. You can fry the pistons in minutes. Trust me... If you must start it check for leaks and shut it off after a few minutes.

blaze the chemi

After my rebuild I put in the stock ecu and injectors for the initial startup. I let the car idle for 15-20 minutes to make sure there are no leaks anywhere. I don't think I changed the oil before going to the tuner, but I know I used my regular pennzoil 10w-30.

After making sure the engine was okay I had the car towed to the tuner w/ AEM and 550's installed. The tuner started with light loads up to 4K w/ full decel. Then started to go up in 1K rpm increments with boost as well. After about 10-15 loads he was full boosting up to 8K rpms. I changed the oil shortly thereafter.

I was boosted for 17K miles, sold the kit, and I am now at 35K miles.

When I build another motor I will do the same thing as above, but maybe change the oil before tuning.