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I just got the bushing out of the 98 civic trailing arm with a cast iron pipe adapter. If you have a typical puller big enough, you could probably repeat this for around $7. I have seen pullers like this in the tool store for around $15 though.

Here are some images I loaded to wikimedia.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...ard_puller.JPG


https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...en_bushing.JPG



https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...is_removed.JPG




It is a 2 inch by 1 and 1/2 inch cast iron pipe adapter with the 1 and 1/2 inch cap.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped..._close_up..JPG




I tried to drill a hole in the cap to center the puller, but it failed. The soft cast iron was ground down by the puller screw under pressure. So, you might put some hard steel in there like a socket or something.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...on_the_cap.JPG




New bushing is installed.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped..._finished.JPG"

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/61/Honda_trailing_arm_bushing_tool_hack_-_install_is_finished.JPG/640px-Honda_trailing_arm_bushing_tool_hack_-_install_is_finished.JPG[/URL]

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Dat'll do. Good work.

My only concern would be with non-oem bushings like the Hardrace ones I did on the daily that were a very tight squeeze. Pulling on the edges of the arms like that may set you up for some damage.

98civdx

I did close to the same thing with mine. Just a little different, and used a BFH.

k3ntegra

Thanks for letting us know about this "gear puller" hack.
OP didn't specify the size of the puller, but according to "this image", with 8" 200mm written on the puller and the fact that $15 was mentioned in the original post, I'll assume 6.25" is the bare minimum for the reach (throat).

or

And

Update:
I gave this improvisation and attempt and it didn't go well.

The pipe reducer was 5 to 10mm too short for the bushing, so I had to place a bearing in between. It had 80mm OD, and 40mm ID, .

Any one who's tried to press in after market TA bushings, know they refuse to go in uniformly; i.e. only one side will want to go in compared to the opposite side.

EricTheCarGuy encounters the problem in this video:

The problem with this gear puller improvisation is that the surface area to press on is far less than the 'cup' that comes with the 'proper' tool. The gear puller piston must be used to press 1 of 2 sides, by 5mm into the housing, then one may use it to start pressing it from the middle.

I've decided to buy a 4x4" steel plate, and drill a hole in the middle, and attempt to use it to press each side in, then use the pipe reducer.

Edit:
I'd like to warn people, that the 'official' bushing tool has a 'through & through hole' in the 'cup' that comes with it, to prevent damage to the pointed tip of the puller's center screw. I.e.: The pointed tip shouldn't come in physical contact with anything.. Without the pointed tip, the gear puller is near useless, as the screw refuses to stay in a centered location.

Any HSS drill bit, should allow one to easily drill a hole with a 18/20v hand drill.

2nd edit:
This project ended in utter failure. The use of a gear puller, with 'movable' joints, is just far too dangerous. I will admit there are 'variables' why this improvisation didn't work out for me. I couldn't even hammer out the old trailing arm bushing that was installed 2 years ago. Also the gear puller bent trailing arm, and left very noticeable scuffs on it, and could cause the car to fail state inspection when trying to pass the car to a new owner.

If you're going to attempt this improvisation, either go the junkyard and get the arms for $60 (they charge extra if you don't remove the wheel bearing hub that tends to seize), or on ebay for $100+.

There's a tool with model # CT4862, on eBay. According to a video I saw on youtube, this design can be used on the inner side of the trailing arm. It is common to push the bushing in too deep, causing the bushing to warp when you fasten it to the car's body.