A-dub5513

Hey guys, I've been researching this issue for quite some time but haven't been able to get a definitive answer. I've done an extensive search online as well as at local shops with no luck. Even ASR won't won't say, other than that I should replace it with the Type-R bar (big surprise).

I just want to know if anyone can tell me if the Skunkworks bar is designed like the Type-R's. I've seen pics on the net and they appear to be. They are both 22's.

Basically I'm just looking for new bushings and D-brackets. The mount holes on each side of Skunks's design are exactly 2" apart (top to bottom)while the holes on the ASR plate slightly under (didn't measure exact length). But since we all know that stock Type-R parts are used, all I should need are the stock D-brackets and order bushings for that application.

If anyone knows or has a Skunk bar, please let me know.

Thanks,
A-dub

Natural Aspirations

Certainly seems to make sense to me. USDM ITR bar is 22mm correct? As long as your bushing has a 22mm hole, the d-bracket fits the 22mm bushing and your sub frame brace you should be good.

mrdeadman

You can just get new bushings and dbrackets at the dealer for $10. If it doesn't work the ITR bar is $80.

blinx9900

Wow, blast from the past, you would not be referring to an ooooooold skunkworks bar that is no longer in production are you? By the way the company is now called skunk2, they dropped the skunkworks name YEARS ago (legal reasons).

A-dub5513

Yup, it's the ooooold Skunkworks bar. It was the only option to Mugen's 22mm bar (for much more $$$) available at the time. It made the car handle like crazy (flew through turns with much greater speed than stock). That, and from behind, its red powdercoating went perfectly with the car's color scheme (black paint; red taillights). Pretty much everything on my car is a "blast from the past" as I hate buying the same upgrade more than once....

...but unfortunately, I think that may be the case this time. I lined up the bar with the ASR brace and found that the mounting points on the brace is narrower than what the bar's intended mounting points are. I can't simply slide the bushing towards the center because there's a kink/bend there.

Also, the mounting brackets that the Skunkworks bar is designed to bolt to sits further back from the subframe surface than it would with the ASR mounting surface. This may indicate that the endlinks may not line up right. So to Natural Aspirations, I really wish it was as simple as finding bushings and D-brackets to fit.

And to mrdeadman: I'm really kinda relieved to know that I could get a Type-R bar for $80. I'm assuming you mean brand new from the dealer? It looks like I'll also need to source the stock endlinks since I lost mines since the swap. However, I think if I were to use the Type-R bar with the ASR brace, the endlinks I have now should work, right? In other words, if the reinforcement plate is designed to turn my GS-R subframe to Type-R specs and I use the Type-R bar, the endlink should line right up to it's proper 90 degree angle position (bar end straight down to LCA). Although I could just find/buy stock endlinks to be sure, I'm asking because the Skunkworks are still attached to the LCA's and are seized.

And lastly, I just realized there's currently another thread with the same question to the same situation. So if the OP's reading, I'm in the exact same boat. Let me know if you've found a remedy to successfully mount the bar. But as much as I hate to give up this beautiful red bar, with the bends and kinks right where the bushings ought to be, I think we have to admit defeat....that, or sell the ASR brace, keep the bar and mount it with a Beaks kit. Hmmm...

What do you guys think?

Thanks for reading,
A-dub

blinx9900

if you do use the Beaks kit i would modify it it so that its more like the asr unit, i would weld in a piece of aluminum between the two plates.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Can you take pics of this bar? I'd like to see why you can't slide the bushings inwards to the proper location.

Carland Acura has the 22mm rear bar for only $70. However the end links are $20 each.

5 52300-ST7-Z01 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER (22MM) $69.25
6 52303-ST7-Z00 LINK, RR. STABILIZER $20.87 x2
8 52312-SE0-000 COLLAR, STABILIZER BUSH END (INNER) $1.80 x2
11 52316-ST7-Z00 BUSH, STABILIZER END $1.61 x2

You may need some of the bolts, as well.

For some reason the #8 collars aren't listed in the ITR parts diagram. I had to go to a GS-R diagram to get the part numbers.

A-dub5513

Thanks Patrick, really helpful with the prices 'n part #'s...

Here are some pics, that is if I'm doin' this right...

A-dub5513

So as you guys can see, even with stock Type-R D-brackets, simply sliding the bushings over won't allow them to seat properly on the brace surface because of the bar's slight angled bend. Doing so, the bends actually make contact with the brace surface.

So although the original question to this thread was to compare whether the two bars' design were similiar, it was to get a better idea of where the endlinks would end up in relation to the LCA's. Furthermore, with the Skunk bar designed to be mounted on these brackets, they positioned the bar further back away from the subframe surface than it would if the bar was mounted to the ASR brace surface, putting another X factor to the endlink position. I did factor in adjustable endlinks, but as stated above, the bar's design simply won't allow the proper placement of the bushings.

So it looks like extra bread is going to be spent on a part I already have. I guess it would've been less frustrating (less sticker shock, even) if ASR simply just said that the brace was specifically designed with the use of stock Type-R sway bar parts, instead of simply offering it "a la carte" or as a "kit" so consumers can make an informed buying decision.

A-dub

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

well, they can't really look at every sway bar out there just to make sure it works, especially on old, discontinued parts that have been long out of production.

Maybe you could try to sell that bar as a "vintage" part to help offset the cost (or maybe even cover the cost) of the ITR bar and end links?

A-dub5513

Yeah, that's true. I'm just actin' butt hurt, lol! Hey, forgot to thank you for your reply. Diagram, price, and part #'s...what more can I ask! Right on.

I guess if I could always get someone to powdercoat the new bar red...

And I still have yet to get someone to repair the tearout too (sigh)...anything to arm myself when shopping for a good welder/chassis repairman? So far everyone said they "should" be able to do it, but with the weld bolts ripped out, wouldn't all alignment/positioning of the bolt holes be crucial (and a bitch) to do right?

Thanks everyone!

TunerN00b

Flip the black brackets upside down, so that the ARB is mounted to the brackets inside of the mount points on the ASR plate. See if that moves them in far enough to get inside of the bends in the ARB.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't appear that would work. I don't think he had the bar exactly centered over the ASR brace in the pic above. It looks like it would work in that closeup of the right side, but not on the left side I don't think.

Civichatch2k

Wow, I just made a post about the same thing! I was told/researched that the skunk2 bar that I have is a 21mm.

can we get some calipers to measure?

A-dub5513

Not a half-bad suggestion. Yeah, I centered everything in the pics, so everyone can see what's what. However, although the bar can be mounted, that would bring both the mount points twice the length inward from its intended position (hindering integrity of the bar's resistance to flex?). Will it cause increased stress at the mount points? But more importantly, now we have the brace on top of the subframe PLUS the brackets on top of that! I don't that will work out as far as the endlinks are concerned.

I was wondering when you'd jump in! Figured some of this info would be useful to you since we're in the same boat. Don't know if you've read the rest of the thread, but D-brackets and thickness is the least of your worries.

If you must know, the Skunkworks bar was advertised as 22mm. I've measure it with a open-ended wrench as closer to 21. The Type-R's 22mm.

Civichatch2k

Well I agree with you that it is a minor problem. My sway bar looks just like the BLOX rear sway bar and ES makes a d-bracket and bushing set for 25 bucks shipped.

I am willing to pay 25 bucks to find out if it would or wouldn't work. My sway bar does not have the bends like yours. I think with the D-brackets and bushings from ES look like they would work and fit being that I it was like a 1/2" difference from the other brackets to the mounting holes on the ASR brace.

My setup is a EK.

Civichatch2k

Well I was not worried about the thickness as much as the diameter(if that is how you can describe it).

They were simply too small as well as the bushings. I will post up some picks later I already mounted the ASR brace.

Civichatch2k

Your sway bar looks completely different than mine. Mine does not have those bends and angles in it.

What car do you have? An eg/dc2?

Spec R

yeah looks like you're out of luck, but best wishes!