zirtbow

Ok, I have a 2012 V6 Honda Accord EX-L with about 60k miles on it.

I attached a pic of what the rotor scrape looks like on the rear passenger side wheel. About a year ago I saw this rotor being scraped like this and it still had the original pads on it from 2012 when I bought the car new (I had replaced the front pads already). I figured I probably neglected the pads too long and they were eating into the rotor. So I replaced the pads on both rear wheels and the rotor on this rear passenger side back in December of 2016. Now here a year later it's the exact same problem with the exact same scraping pattern on the passenger side rear rotor. I used an OEM rotor from majestichonda and OEM pads from Bernardi Honda when I did the replacement. Does anyone have any idea what might be going on? I did look at it a month or so after I did the replacement and everything was fine. It was only recently this scraping came back. I checked and it appears the pad still has a good amount of life left (so it's not the squealer band hitting it) and I don't see any part of the caliper hitting the rotor. I haven't taken the wheel off yet to examine what's going on but I wondered if anyone has seen anything like this before. I didn't notice anything was out of whack when I worked on it the first time.

boxedfox

I've seen this happen on a few cars. The most common causes from my experience were:

1. Bad wheel bearing or loose wheel on that corner can cause the rotor to move under cornering and hit the metal slider brackets that the pads sit on.
2. Slider pins in that brake caliper are bent or sticky, preventing the brake pads from retracting fully and letting the edges scrape against the rotor.

Both of those problems would cause scrape marks similar to what we see in your photo.

holmesnmanny

do you have pulsating pedal sensation meaning that rotor might be warped ? buy a dial indicator, watch some youtube vids on how to use it and set it up, torque down that rotor, do a dial indicator test on it, if there is more than .001 inches of runout, replace the hub as it's likely distorted/bent

the only time you get warped rotors is when the hub is distorted/bent and after you tighten a new rotor down it will distort again to match the hub since the hub is stronger

hubs get distorted/bent when you either hit something in the road or they overtorque the lug nuts or a combination of both

if your rotors aren't warped then just skip all of the above process and it's likely what the above posted posted

Jonny Alvarez