k3ntegra

I already have an arm with the sliding rails; and seems one can easily remove the old ball joints with a 5mm (correct size?) hex key (Performance Tool W38895).<br /><br />It seems even Skunk2 camber ball joints go bad after 2 years: <a href="&quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://www.amazon.com/Skunk2-916-05-5670-Ball-Joint-Honda-Integra/dp/B008L0GACI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qi d=1497593881&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=skunk2+camber+ball+joint&amp;qu ot;&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&quot;" >https://www.amazon.com/Skunk2-916-05-5670-Ball-Joint-Honda-Integra/dp/B008L0GACI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=149759 3881&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=skunk2+camber+ball+joint</a>.<br /><br />The following amazon reviewer says to discard the boot it comes with, add more grease, then use Honda OEM boot (51464-S04-013)<br /><a href="&quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://honda-tech.com/forums/&amp;quot;https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RXV3IDOLNV78K/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;ASIN=B008L0 G97O&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&amp;quot;&amp;q uot;&quot;">https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RXV3IDOLNV78K/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B008L0G97O </a><br /><br />Car is used purely for daily driving/street use.<br /><br />Main question is, has anyone ever had a reliable upper ball joint (preferably camber adjustable), that didn't experience "play" after 2 years or 24 thousand miles of use?<br />How likely is an upper ball joint to snap off assuming the lower ball joint is in proper condition?<br /><br />I'm leaning towards Blox ball joint + Honda OEM boot + silicone grease (on top of existing grease).

Re-write (there should be a way to disable the forum's automation software, e.g. "keeping source format" when pasting text):
I have upper control arms with sliding rails in the front, with ball joints that went bad almost a year.
According to the reviewer , the trick to getting these camber ball joints to last longer, is to add more silicone grease, and use Honda Ball joint boot part# 51464-S04-013. Has anyone ever got there camber adjustable ball joints to last more than 2 years or 24+ thousand miles? If so, how?

May some please confirm that the hex screw is 5mm in size? I'm think of buying 3/8 drive hex head screw.

Tyson

Why do you want to adjust your camber?

k3ntegra

I curbed my car at the front right tire at around 30-40 mph. After getting an alignment, my front wheels camber were -1.4° ←•→-2.2°, respectively. Acceptable factory range is supposed to be 0.8 to -1.2 (left tire) and -1.2 to 0.8 (right tire). Camber kit was able to bring the settings to factory range; -0.5° ←•→ -0.7°. The car experienced severe pulling towards the left while on the highway; it turns out this may be due to the -1.0° caster resulting from a likely bent lower control arm instead of improper camber.

When I get another alignment I'm thinking of getting the camber set to -0.8 to -1.0 to allow more aggressive cornering. No camber kits in the rear though, and I'd like to leave it that way due to $$. They were -1.1° ←•→ -1.0°, when I got my last alignment.

I suspect the steering knuckle is bent. If I could do it over I would have replaced the steering knuckle and installed brand new wheel bearing and ball joints on it. Since brand new knuckles aren't sold I'd have to get one from the junkyard/ebay it may probably be bent as well; therefore making camber kit a rational option for me. Car has over 210k miles.

Edit:
For my current camber ball joint, the hex size is indeed 5mm, just like the OEM strut's piston hex hole.

It seems the current ball joints are removable while the upper control arm and struts are still connected to the vehicle because the hex screws are installed upside down, providing a lot more clearance for hand tools (1/4 drive 5mm hex bit socket + extension socket + 3/8→1/4 ratchet drive adapter (leverage for loosening rust) + 3/8 flex head ratchet or 1/4 drive torque wrench. Because of this, replacing the camber ball joints every 2 years/24k miles may indeed be worth hassle.

I'll leaning towards getting Blox + BWR ($25 a piece / each side will have separate brands for comparison in logevity) then adding silicone and Honda OEM boot. But if both only last 1 year instead of 2 years like the Skunk2, it makes more sense to get the Skunk2. Only one I found with a warranty was the BWR @ eBay, for 6 months...