KW Variant 3 Questions (Ek Civic)
#1
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Thread Starter
KW Variant 3 Questions (Ek Civic)
I'm not sure why, but there is so little actual information about the KW V3s for our cars. I've searched for hours and cannot find what I'm looking for. If anyone can help, I'd be grateful.
1) Do the KW Variant 3 for EK (PN35250003) include top hats?
2) Anyone know what the spring rates are?
3) Anyone have an actual photo of this set? All that seems to be out there are "generic product" photos.
4) Does anyone have experience with these ... or really any KW? I also own a BWM and have known about KW for going on decades now, but haven't heard much about their Japanese car products.
I'm curious about the V3 as they're from, what I think, is a reputable manufacturer (TÜV Approved and so on) and they're both rebound and compression adjustable, which is what I'm looking for. For ~$1,500, this seems like a great intersection of high-quality suspension and value. Too goo to be true?
The car is mainly a street car and might see a track day or autocross here or there.
I've also emailed these questions to KW but have not heard back. I'll update if/when I do.
Thanks!
1) Do the KW Variant 3 for EK (PN35250003) include top hats?
2) Anyone know what the spring rates are?
3) Anyone have an actual photo of this set? All that seems to be out there are "generic product" photos.
4) Does anyone have experience with these ... or really any KW? I also own a BWM and have known about KW for going on decades now, but haven't heard much about their Japanese car products.
I'm curious about the V3 as they're from, what I think, is a reputable manufacturer (TÜV Approved and so on) and they're both rebound and compression adjustable, which is what I'm looking for. For ~$1,500, this seems like a great intersection of high-quality suspension and value. Too goo to be true?
The car is mainly a street car and might see a track day or autocross here or there.
I've also emailed these questions to KW but have not heard back. I'll update if/when I do.
Thanks!
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Re: KW Variant 3 Questions (Ek Civic)
I had V3's on my S2000. They lasted a surprising amount of time. I think I had ~40K on them before I sold them. Someone else is still using them happily.
They rode well and they were really well made.
They do not include top hats -- they are TUV approved.
The springs are also very conservative. Something like 350F and 180R for civics/integras. -- As a result of the TUV design.
They're "German agressive". So...soft springs, shitload of damping. Good and bad thing, depending on what you want to do with them.
The bodies are not drastically shorter, and they cannot be used to lower the car much...unless you're down for a rowdy ride -- TUV again.
I do like the external reservoirs because it helps on short travel cars.
The fact that the high speed damping does not change no matter how many times you click the adjustment **** is a good/bad thing.
Tons of damping force...so you can use stiffer springs if you want. Though KW discourages it and will NOT re-valve the V3 for different rates -- because of TUV.
There are a lot of options at that price. IDK if V3's are $1500...I usually see them around $1800+.
Good overall setup for road and. non-serious track use.
BUT...if you don't live in a TUV regulated country...you can use Ohlins DFV's for a similar price point. None of the TUV restrictions, and way better damping with stiffer springs.
Are you in a TUV country? What are you using these for?
They rode well and they were really well made.
They do not include top hats -- they are TUV approved.
The springs are also very conservative. Something like 350F and 180R for civics/integras. -- As a result of the TUV design.
They're "German agressive". So...soft springs, shitload of damping. Good and bad thing, depending on what you want to do with them.
The bodies are not drastically shorter, and they cannot be used to lower the car much...unless you're down for a rowdy ride -- TUV again.
I do like the external reservoirs because it helps on short travel cars.
The fact that the high speed damping does not change no matter how many times you click the adjustment **** is a good/bad thing.
Tons of damping force...so you can use stiffer springs if you want. Though KW discourages it and will NOT re-valve the V3 for different rates -- because of TUV.
There are a lot of options at that price. IDK if V3's are $1500...I usually see them around $1800+.
Good overall setup for road and. non-serious track use.
BUT...if you don't live in a TUV regulated country...you can use Ohlins DFV's for a similar price point. None of the TUV restrictions, and way better damping with stiffer springs.
Are you in a TUV country? What are you using these for?
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: KW Variant 3 Questions (Ek Civic)
I had V3's on my S2000. They lasted a surprising amount of time. I think I had ~40K on them before I sold them. Someone else is still using them happily.
They rode well and they were really well made.
They do not include top hats -- they are TUV approved.
The springs are also very conservative. Something like 350F and 180R for civics/integras. -- As a result of the TUV design.
They're "German agressive". So...soft springs, shitload of damping. Good and bad thing, depending on what you want to do with them.
The bodies are not drastically shorter, and they cannot be used to lower the car much...unless you're down for a rowdy ride -- TUV again.
I do like the external reservoirs because it helps on short travel cars.
The fact that the high speed damping does not change no matter how many times you click the adjustment **** is a good/bad thing.
Tons of damping force...so you can use stiffer springs if you want. Though KW discourages it and will NOT re-valve the V3 for different rates -- because of TUV.
There are a lot of options at that price. IDK if V3's are $1500...I usually see them around $1800+.
Good overall setup for road and. non-serious track use.
BUT...if you don't live in a TUV regulated country...you can use Ohlins DFV's for a similar price point. None of the TUV restrictions, and way better damping with stiffer springs.
Are you in a TUV country? What are you using these for?
They rode well and they were really well made.
They do not include top hats -- they are TUV approved.
The springs are also very conservative. Something like 350F and 180R for civics/integras. -- As a result of the TUV design.
They're "German agressive". So...soft springs, shitload of damping. Good and bad thing, depending on what you want to do with them.
The bodies are not drastically shorter, and they cannot be used to lower the car much...unless you're down for a rowdy ride -- TUV again.
I do like the external reservoirs because it helps on short travel cars.
The fact that the high speed damping does not change no matter how many times you click the adjustment **** is a good/bad thing.
Tons of damping force...so you can use stiffer springs if you want. Though KW discourages it and will NOT re-valve the V3 for different rates -- because of TUV.
There are a lot of options at that price. IDK if V3's are $1500...I usually see them around $1800+.
Good overall setup for road and. non-serious track use.
BUT...if you don't live in a TUV regulated country...you can use Ohlins DFV's for a similar price point. None of the TUV restrictions, and way better damping with stiffer springs.
Are you in a TUV country? What are you using these for?
I'm in the US (Oregon) so TUV is not mandatory, but I like the legitimate rating. I am also looking for exactly what you describe: less spring, more damper. I've just found that over the years that works best for me and the roads around here plus gives more flexibility with both rebound/compression adjustments. Too many Japanese/US coilovers I've tried over the past 20 years have been spring to the moon with not much control damping. They really want you to feel like a Super Taikyu pro with those things. These will be used mainly on the street/weekend curvy mountain roads. With this car, I'd bet a max of 1 track day per year and a handful of regional auto crosses, which usually take place on far from perfect tarmac. Tires are RE71R, not DOTs or full slicks and this car isn't very low. I'd guess down 3/4" - 1" from factory currently.
I don't have the factory top hats anymore. Do you have a suggestion for replacing those? I have a wholesale account with a local Honda dealer so I can piece together new OEM hats, but I'm open to trying something else. Pillowballs are not a requirement.
Car is a 1997 Civic LX / B16A2. Suspension components are all KTuned/Skunk2 Alpha
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Re: KW Variant 3 Questions (Ek Civic)
Buy a used DC2 ITR/EK9 CTR used JDM spring/shock setup or any year stock S2000 shock/spring setup on ebay to harvest tophats, as that will be the cheapest way. I am almost positive that S2000 tophats will work. I was actually using S2000 rear shocks on a civic for a while lol.
The models listed above come with the cool hardened tophat bushings. There's not much to wear out. So as long as the hats aren't hopelessly rusted or damaged, they'll work for a virtual eternity.
Or buy the components at Honda if you're more inclined.
I can't get past the 180LB rear springs on KW's. That's softer than the stock ITR rear spring.
But, they may be what you're looking for if this is just a street car that you want that high quality feeling with.
Why do you want dual adjustable shocks? I guess its nice to have adjustability. But there are shocks that dial compression and rebound together. I never looked forward to crawling under the car to change compression setting on my KW. So I mostly adjusted rebound...which kind defeats the purpose of having a DA shock.
I have Ohlins now. More simple to adjust...and no doubt a better shock.
Have you looked at Fortune Auto, PIC, or AMR? They all can custom build setups with spring rates and damping to suit.
You can opt to buy a damper valved for heavier springs than the setup comes with. Like...buying a damper valved for 500LB springs and using 400LB springs on it, for example. Plus, the FA and AMR's are monotube. Not sure if PICs are or not.
Don't be too afraid of some spring rate. If low speed valving is strong enough, you'll get your overdamped feeling. Heavy spring rate isn't necessary on a street car (its kinda dumb, actually)...but to some extent, it does improve overall driving character if you don't over do it.
I think you'll regret using softly sprung coilovers for autocross or any track that sees switchbacks and fast transitions. Damping force only slows down and masks body roll...it doesn't prevent it. Only total effective spring rate can actually keep the body flat.
The models listed above come with the cool hardened tophat bushings. There's not much to wear out. So as long as the hats aren't hopelessly rusted or damaged, they'll work for a virtual eternity.
Or buy the components at Honda if you're more inclined.
I can't get past the 180LB rear springs on KW's. That's softer than the stock ITR rear spring.
But, they may be what you're looking for if this is just a street car that you want that high quality feeling with.
Why do you want dual adjustable shocks? I guess its nice to have adjustability. But there are shocks that dial compression and rebound together. I never looked forward to crawling under the car to change compression setting on my KW. So I mostly adjusted rebound...which kind defeats the purpose of having a DA shock.
I have Ohlins now. More simple to adjust...and no doubt a better shock.
Have you looked at Fortune Auto, PIC, or AMR? They all can custom build setups with spring rates and damping to suit.
You can opt to buy a damper valved for heavier springs than the setup comes with. Like...buying a damper valved for 500LB springs and using 400LB springs on it, for example. Plus, the FA and AMR's are monotube. Not sure if PICs are or not.
Don't be too afraid of some spring rate. If low speed valving is strong enough, you'll get your overdamped feeling. Heavy spring rate isn't necessary on a street car (its kinda dumb, actually)...but to some extent, it does improve overall driving character if you don't over do it.
I think you'll regret using softly sprung coilovers for autocross or any track that sees switchbacks and fast transitions. Damping force only slows down and masks body roll...it doesn't prevent it. Only total effective spring rate can actually keep the body flat.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: KW Variant 3 Questions (Ek Civic)
Buy a used DC2 ITR/EK9 CTR used JDM spring/shock setup or any year stock S2000 shock/spring setup on ebay to harvest tophats, as that will be the cheapest way. I am almost positive that S2000 tophats will work. I was actually using S2000 rear shocks on a civic for a while lol.
The models listed above come with the cool hardened tophat bushings. There's not much to wear out. So as long as the hats aren't hopelessly rusted or damaged, they'll work for a virtual eternity.
Or buy the components at Honda if you're more inclined.
I can't get past the 180LB rear springs on KW's. That's softer than the stock ITR rear spring.
But, they may be what you're looking for if this is just a street car that you want that high quality feeling with.
Why do you want dual adjustable shocks? I guess its nice to have adjustability. But there are shocks that dial compression and rebound together. I never looked forward to crawling under the car to change compression setting on my KW. So I mostly adjusted rebound...which kind defeats the purpose of having a DA shock.
I have Ohlins now. More simple to adjust...and no doubt a better shock.
Have you looked at Fortune Auto, PIC, or AMR? They all can custom build setups with spring rates and damping to suit.
You can opt to buy a damper valved for heavier springs than the setup comes with. Like...buying a damper valved for 500LB springs and using 400LB springs on it, for example. Plus, the FA and AMR's are monotube. Not sure if PICs are or not.
Don't be too afraid of some spring rate. If low speed valving is strong enough, you'll get your overdamped feeling. Heavy spring rate isn't necessary on a street car (its kinda dumb, actually)...but to some extent, it does improve overall driving character if you don't over do it.
I think you'll regret using softly sprung coilovers for autocross or any track that sees switchbacks and fast transitions. Damping force only slows down and masks body roll...it doesn't prevent it. Only total effective spring rate can actually keep the body flat.
The models listed above come with the cool hardened tophat bushings. There's not much to wear out. So as long as the hats aren't hopelessly rusted or damaged, they'll work for a virtual eternity.
Or buy the components at Honda if you're more inclined.
I can't get past the 180LB rear springs on KW's. That's softer than the stock ITR rear spring.
But, they may be what you're looking for if this is just a street car that you want that high quality feeling with.
Why do you want dual adjustable shocks? I guess its nice to have adjustability. But there are shocks that dial compression and rebound together. I never looked forward to crawling under the car to change compression setting on my KW. So I mostly adjusted rebound...which kind defeats the purpose of having a DA shock.
I have Ohlins now. More simple to adjust...and no doubt a better shock.
Have you looked at Fortune Auto, PIC, or AMR? They all can custom build setups with spring rates and damping to suit.
You can opt to buy a damper valved for heavier springs than the setup comes with. Like...buying a damper valved for 500LB springs and using 400LB springs on it, for example. Plus, the FA and AMR's are monotube. Not sure if PICs are or not.
Don't be too afraid of some spring rate. If low speed valving is strong enough, you'll get your overdamped feeling. Heavy spring rate isn't necessary on a street car (its kinda dumb, actually)...but to some extent, it does improve overall driving character if you don't over do it.
I think you'll regret using softly sprung coilovers for autocross or any track that sees switchbacks and fast transitions. Damping force only slows down and masks body roll...it doesn't prevent it. Only total effective spring rate can actually keep the body flat.
#6
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Re: KW Variant 3 Questions (Ek Civic)
I've had 3 sets of KW's for my cars EG,DC and EK. Currently waiting on a fourth set my new project.
Excellent coilover as B Serious has pointed out, I believe since KW has been based in California for a number of years now, they have tuned the V3's to work with American roads compared to what is out in Europe. You can call them and make sure you are ready to pay but they can build you a custom set of V3's but be prepared for them to ask you a buttload of questions and a crazy wait time. Run the V3's out of the box and down the road if you want to ramp up the spring rates call them up and order different ones. For the most part the springs that come with the coilover are progressive, constantly changing due to load I believe. Once you go for a specified weight then you will need to run a "helper" spring.
Excellent coilover as B Serious has pointed out, I believe since KW has been based in California for a number of years now, they have tuned the V3's to work with American roads compared to what is out in Europe. You can call them and make sure you are ready to pay but they can build you a custom set of V3's but be prepared for them to ask you a buttload of questions and a crazy wait time. Run the V3's out of the box and down the road if you want to ramp up the spring rates call them up and order different ones. For the most part the springs that come with the coilover are progressive, constantly changing due to load I believe. Once you go for a specified weight then you will need to run a "helper" spring.
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