SCoupe 5sp

No cooling ducts. Even worse, just started running a splitter where there was none before. And fwiw, my laps times are very competitive, I am hammer down out there. I really think your pads are the problem. There are only about four Honda's in my Group C class HC, and two of us are now running my setup with consistent results.

Look, maybe just call the guy who assembles the pads, Tim at Raybestos (they are custom made) and tell him how screwed up things are for you. See if he has any thoughts. Can't hurt. (RC503 in ST43 compound),at 949-548-4470.

Calif_Kid

I second the idea of trying a different brake compound (on new rotors if changing brands). I also suggest not installing cooling ducts yet - info is below. I think that the Hawk DTC70 is probably a pretty aggressive compound, so you could always step back to a less aggressive Hawk compound, or switch brands - either Raybestos ST43 like was suggested above, or maybe even Carbotech XP10. I'm not sure how fast/aggressive you drive, but I would suggest trying the Carbotech XP10 pads first as they seem to be a little easier on the rotors than the Raybestos ST43 from what I've seen (I initially used Carbotech XP10 front and Carbotech AX6 autocross rear, and eventually switched to Raybestos ST43 front and Carbotech XP8 rear).

I was running cooling ducts on my car (2000 Civic hatch setup for Honda Challenge H2) for a while with the brakes being ITR/Honda V6 calipers with 11" Fastbrake two piece rotors (1" thick), and I had an issue with a bad shimmy/vibration intermittently during hard braking. One long time racer mentioned that by cooling ducts might be causing the vibration issue, as they were directly most of the air against the inside face of the rotor instead of going to the center of the rotor. For my last event, I switched to redrilled VTEC rotors (23mm thick) and removed the cooling ducts, and the brakes worked great without any vibration. The bottom line I'm getting at, is that from what I've seen/been told, that the brake cooling ducts are tough to run a FWD car (to keep them away from everything like the tire plus axle). The best thing would probably be to have the end of the cooling hose connected to the hub etc. so the air goes directly to the inside of the rotor. The thread https://honda-tech.com/road-racing-a...honda-3227099/ has a picture of that person's cooling ducts and bracket on post 14. When I removed my cooling ducts, I had left my steel attachment brackets connected at the lower shock bolt, and with the car on jackstands, there was plenty of clearance from the wheel rim to the steel brackets, but when I unloaded the car at the track, I was getting a bad metal scraping sound at full lock in the paddock. I found that with the car on jackstands, there was plenty of clearance from the steel brackets to the wheel rim inner face, but when I lowered the car back to the ground, then there wasn't nearly as much clearance. My car has spherical bearings, so not sure if a standard bushing at the lower shock would show the same change.

I was looking at a nice Mazda RX8 race car a few weekends ago, and it was interesting to see how he had to snake the cooling hose through the suspension and steering arm, but he had a backing plate where he could attach the end of the cooling hose to. He didn't have to worry about clearing a front axle or CV joint, but it was still interesting to see how he snaked the cooling hose.

If you do decide to install cooling ducts, then first read https://honda-tech.com/road-racing-a...cting-3249439/ as post 4 has some nice pictures including a bracket to keep the cooling duct air directed to the center of the rotor, and pictures of my setup in post 8, plus links to other threads on cooling ducts.
- Jim

Jundersco

So I finally got around to doing this and aside from some heat shield interference and seized bolts everything went well.

I got all my parts from Rock Auto for about $300 including new brake lines with it. I can definitely feel an improvement but I think one of the old pistons were seized anyway. Plenty of room in 16" wheels and look nice as well.

I went with the TSX 787 pads like posted above and drilled rotors from the Mini. Made it home after finishing everything so I think it was a success.

maxogsr

I just went trough all the treads and your reply caugh my attention... I ve been tracking my dc2 for a decade now and had many issues with rotor cracking these last 2-3 years. I always thought that cheap chineese iron was the prob. I use to use Brembo blank and since the last 2-3 year, maybe more, I notice that the Brembo are now made in china instead of italy like before.

But...you just point out something I never really though. The dtc70 could be the cause of my craking rotor... This year I start the season with dtc60 and didn t have too much crack until I switch back to dtc70 on my last 2 track days. Now my rotor are full of cracks. I must add that this year I went with the euro big brake conversion option, the MG Rover 25 mm thick rotor that I have import from UK trying to solve the cracking issue. A good friend of mine run the same set up but start having cracks way before than me. And I think he s running dtc70 since day one this season...

As for the mini set up option I notice that the piston is push further out as the pads are wearing and it cause the rubber that protect it to be carbonize way ealier... This could cause damage to the inner seal and cause premature faillure of the caliper... My 2 cents... Probably not an issue for street app but for track...

SCoupe 5sp

@Maxo, yeah, pads are the thing that bring the heat. Rotors, pads, tires are all consumables for race cars. I was burning through Carbotech HP10's at $225 a pop. The rotors were outlasting them. My experience is that the St43's are predictable pads and take out the rotors, not the other way around. I'm satisfied with that trade off. I wish there was a silver bullet rotor we could run.

5.0killa

Idk y people are worried about mixing parts up, its not like you have a honda turbo kit on your car or have honda made brake pads on your car and even if you did buy the from honda, they have other companies build these parts for them.

maxogsr

No.worries for me, I even run a gm truck rad on my K20! But you are right, people thinks that honda built the whole car, but truth is that the re a bunch of compagny that built parts for them... Takata, exedy, gates, nissins just to name a few...

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

...Many of which are vendors owned partly or wholly by Honda and are making parts strictly to their specs, but yeah you're sort of right. It wouldn't make sense for them to have a radiator hose factory when there's already one dedicated to making them.

SSBP-GSR

DIY: The No BS Bolt on Big brakes for RS/GS/LS/GSR - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

here is another write up for this, he says he read it on HT not sure if there was an original link but anyways more questions and answers in that bigger TI thread- 55 pages of shared advice and rim fitments

Aklackner

I just put together this kit from rock auto.

I ordered the Cardone Ultra ITR front calipers and TSX EBC green stuff pads, however dropping the pads into the calipers with the included shims there's about a millimeter of play still. Checked all four pads in both calipers all are about the same.

No surprise EBC greenstuff rear ITR pads fit the rear calipers completely snug as I'd expect.
Has anyone else seen this?

Could the retention/alignment tabs on the TSX pads be shorter than ITR, or the incorrect bracket have been provided, or more likely did I screw something up. Seems enough people are running this setup. Just worried about the pads banging around as they make contact.

Any help/thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks

becquio

Nice thread, I'll tell you what setup do i have in my hatch.
It's a '92 eg6 EDM, the one that came with the b16 stock and ABS, 260mm front 240 rear.
Itr Front calipers, Itr pads, and EBC rotors for MG ZR 4x100 282mm. Totally Plug & play, if you use ITR caliper holder, with CRV ones just need to use a 1mm washer.
Several tracks days and DD, no issues at all.

On the rear I have 260mm front a euro Ep2 prerestyling, same as the ep3 rotors, but 4x100. Just took the ep2 calipers and crossed them, Right one to the left side, left one to the right. You can use 'em without doing this but at least in my hatch brake and ebrake lines came this way, and didn't want to change that. (You have to bleed the rear brakes with the caliper out of the arm, because the bleeder is in the down side, but it's easy)

Have some friends with the mini rotor conversion, but pads issues as well.

All with HEL ss braided brake lines.

Honda Type R

I'm not sure what's causing the problem. Everything fit nicely on my car. First I test fitted Auto Zone TSX pads and then I installed Hawks HPS pads with no issues. Sorry I can't help. Good luck!

The MG rotors are literally a perfect fit but getting them in the states can be pricey and not worth it IMO. The Mini setup works perfectly with the TSX pads.

becquio

I know that, just finished my b20v having to pay customs fee for all the FVcKing parts

Aklackner

So have to say I don't recommend the Cardone ultra reman. calipers. The "ultra" part is a powder coat which is nice for rust resistance but is applied in/on all parts and threads so all bolts and clearances are affected. They did bother to clear the brake line threads but not the line capture tabs or any of the mount holes/threads so had to back the first one off and clean the tabs and other parts off before it would go into place gently. One piston had a pretty good knick on surface and from some of the comments I'm seeing I think they used a different caliper bracket. I ended up making up some c shaped shims for pad tabs to fill the extra mm in pad play, means I'll need to watch wear closely before one ends up on the rotor and to make sure there aren't issues I missed with alignment on rotors. In the end the pads still sit just inside the rotor edge where they should and brackets clear my 15x6 45et 15 spoke Civic Si? wheels.

Fronts by themselves seem to be a nice improvement over original '97 LS setup. Only use for DD in SoCal so all beyond the point and just for fun/my own aesthetic.

Didn't get the rear on since parking brake bracket didn't match up with 97 ITR calipers, so will order those maybe from Park Acura, and maybe do entire cable set since my pass. side seems more stretched out from DR side anyway.

Have an ASR brace and H&R OE sport springs to get on as well so will just have to find another day to pull things apart again.

Many thanks to the HT posters dropping knowledge and making these projects so approachable to us arm chair mechanics!

KoRn_vIRuZ

Hi, do you have pictures of your setup? I tried it on my EG6 and it's not perfect. The ITR pads are shorter than the MG pads, leaving an unsightly gap of unused friction surface between the rotor hat and the beginning of the pad.

backinblue92

iTrader: (1)

As an 4th gen Prelude guy, I don't understand why u can't just get ITR rotors? Is it the bolt pattern holding u up?

I ask out of curiosity but also because I was able to do the Legend GS 2-piston brakes complete with Legend rotors because I did a 5 lug swap for a couple hundred bucks. Is this the alternative for u 4x100 guys?

PinkMaggit

I did the brake upgrade using the Rock Auto powdercoated Calipers and Mini Rotors with TSX pads.

I feel like the fitment is not quite right, as if something is rubbing whether it be a pad or a bracket to the rotor. I have seen in a few threads people machining the bracket down about 3mm.


Has anyone else run into this issue? or have any thoughts on this.

Aklackner

Part number(s) might help and some description of the issue? Did you remove the pad spring\upper spacer it seems OP had issue with this scraping on the rotor if not removed.

With powder coating a substantial layer is added to the coated parts, this can affect fitment if mating surfaces aren't cleaned of the coating. If the caliper\bracket is rubbing\scraping on something you should be able to see an area where the power coat has been scraped away. Also check the pad shims. If they don't sit perfectly on the bracket they can stick out and scrape on rims or in my case they rubbed the balancing weights on one of my wheels. This was easy to correct by trimming the edge of the shim enough so it allowed clearance.

I did have issues with the A1 Cardone ultra premium calipers (Grey\Silver powder coated, parts 19P1460 and 19P1461) from Rock Auto. I'm now certain they came with the incorrect bracket but my issue was with the tab size which held the pads. I was able to shim, still trying to find the correct pads for the brackets.

Rock Auto also still lists the Raybestos rear calipers (parts FRC11159 and FRC11160) as an application for '94+ Integra Type R even after I had to return my order and requested they correct the application listing. FYI these won't work on anything older than a '98 since the parking brake arm was changed in '98. The calipers had at one point included the parking brake arm so were a compatible application, however, Raybestos no longer includes the required arm. Sadly these $10 arms are also discontinued Acura parts and not available any where I tried to source. The '94-'97 arms cannot be mated to the '98+ calipers.

maxogsr

Here s a few pic of mine...Mg rotors, crv caliper, 23T brackets, itr dtc70 pads...

maxogsr

And here s the difference with the mini...

mikeg'seg

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried this set up with spoon calipers?

anthonyfa18

what mg car is that from ????

maxogsr

Mg Rover ZR 160... It s a British car... I ve found this set up trying to find 25mm rotor and end up on an Europeen forum where guys runs this has an upgrade...

It works great! I m on the 2nd set and the rotor last the full seasons last summer. I usually do about 50-60 hours of track every years... And my home track is known to be tough on brake!

CFR

We're about to do this brake upgrade on our track car as well. We've been doing the $30 NAPA blanks with Hawk HP Plus pads on the front and PBR Metallic pads on the back with NAPA blanks which deal with about 14-16 hours of abuse nicely.

We'd like to learn more about your prop valve. When you say "brake bias valve set for full rear" could you please elaborate on your settings?

lzylst

iTrader: (1)

What 15" wheel specs work with this brake setup?