98civdx

glad to see your back!

skyclimber

I just tried removing the bushing with the TA on with a hammer.
The result is a failure.
Do not try this.
I removed the 2 bolts from the upper control arm, the one bolt on the bottom of the struct and the bolt connected to the drop link, and of course the 2 bolts of the bushing itself.
I then push down the TA with the stock jack.
I used a metal rod with hammer and tried to hammer it out.
The side of the bushing got deformed. It did moved to the edge, but it won't move anymore. Now I am at a situation that I will not be able to put everything back because the holes for the bushing does not align anymore.
I ended up just put back all the other bolts and leave the bushing hanging!
Do not try it with a hammer if you are not removing the TA.
I just ordered the tools because I cannot find anyone who rent it in Canada...
I spended 4.5hrs for a mess.

MonkeyMagic

tried a similar process..

instead of spending the $$$$ on the tool, i spent $23 on energy suspension bushings and $4 on a long bolt and a couple pieces of steel to make a tool to install them.

doesn't feel like racecar? but it surely doesn't feel like shitty ripped-up 20 year old honda bushings anymore!

98civdx

^^ Everyone said to use a long bolt and plates, but I pushed them in by hand.

It was really freaking easy to get them in.

MonkeyMagic

oh yeah, definitely do-able! i'll co-sign and say with a little wd-40 and they almost fall in. if anyone is searching and reads this: don't be afraid. it's not that bad. you can do it.

as for actually replacing the trailing arm bushings with an oem equivalent (mugen,hardrace,oem,etc)? i've seen people speak of hammering them out.. forget it. just get it out of your head because it's not happening. and if you get them out, i'd be even more concerned trying to accurately get them back in. unless you don't mind buying the tool off ebay for $150-250 depending on which you buy and what's available when you go looking.

98civdx

Burning the rubber out is the worst part.


If the trailing arm is out of the car, hammering them out is a peice of cake.
to put them back in, Set the bushing in the whole, and lightly tap around the bushing to get it started, and a couple good smacks and it's in.
The real issue would be clocking them. That would be a little difficult to get them right.


I did my buddy's a few weeks ago, and I just pulled the TA out of the car. sooo much easier.

skyclimber

Can you show me how did you make your tool?
I want to make one myself too....

98civdx

You don't need that tool, buddy. You can do it by hand, as I did.

I put a little bit of of lube on that metal ring. the one thats inside that tailing arm...

It takes a little bit of pushing at first to get the "lip" in but it will go in, and simply push it the rest of the way thru. I promise you, you'll get it done quicker by hand then with that tool.


But, if you are stuck to use a tool.

You'll need some washers, a long bolt and a nut.

Basicly this.

Trailing arm
nut-washer-bushing- washer-head of bolt. tighten it down and it will push the bushing in.


EDIT- the washers need to be more like plates, but you'll get the idea.

ek44

I do them all the time at work on a hoist without that tool. Then I got the tool from Snapie and used it about 7-8 times. Didn't like it cus it took to long.
Sold the tool kit and went back to my old way of removing them without taking the TA out, just the two bolts that holds the bushing up and loosen the brake line.
With air tools about 15mins per side. And I measured them for the inside how much its sticking out. I've also used a thick steel rod and hammer by knocking it out ~ it does work but takes too long and tiring lol.
With a air hammer it take about 15mins a side for me..

skyclimber

Unfortunately, I do not have a shop. I was just using my jack stands.
I tried to use the rod and hammer. It did not work. When the bushing reach the edge of trailing arm, it stopped moving. There is no way I can push it out with just WD-40 and hand as others suggested.

Anyway, I purchased the tool. The stupid customs from canada charged me $26!!
I spent like CAD200 for the tools shipped.
But at least it works! I removed the busing in 5 mins with the tool.
If anyone interested in renting the tool and is located in Canada, you can pm me.
When i look at the tool, it looks just like a gear puller with a big socket. However, it is amazing how thick the metal is in the tool.

jayupark

I know I'm late to the party, but thanks for the writeup

Just a question though, do y'all recommend getting aftermarket bushings (poly) for this, or will new stock do fine?

I'm the proud own of a STOCK 1999 GSR Sedan :D Picked it up on craigs for $2900 (not that great of a price, but not bad either). The seller was a Mechanic. 177K Miles, bone stock, refreshed paint, great condition, in great need of new trailing arm bushings (the seller gave me some stock bushings).

Glad to drive a Honda/Acura again.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Man, the first time I saw a YouTube video of someone tapping the bushings out with a hammer, I literally ran out into the garage and tried it on a trailing arm I had laying around. The bushing slid right out. I've done two sets since then with the same results, putting the TA in a bench vise and using a brass hammer (about 24oz I'm guessing, it's an old one). The brass is softer than the steel, so it doesn't bounce and therefore transfers a little more energy (i.e. does more work per hit).

Then again, I could just be getting lucky again with Florida cars.

FrozenAsset

I registered just to say thank you for the FAQ, and to include something I saw either here or another honda site. I bought a 2" galvanized pipe fitting, see the lowes link below which is similar, and took the arm off with the exception of the brake lines which I was afraid to round the nuts by trying and the emergency brake. I was able to twist the arm to put one side on the floor, and using a ball peen hammer tap the old bushing out using the 2" fitting. I greased the heck out of the new one, and just tapped it in. I didn't worry about getting the bushings exactly aligned, I just used the blue mark on the bottom as my center point. One side was much easier than the other, and I had little to no rust so YMMV. 98 Civic LX, 179k, they were very much in need of replacement.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_22310-88808-...sales_dollar|1

FearSC549

I just hammered them out easily when they were outside the car. Now, do I have to rotate the bushing and install them since my car is lowered? As shown on this site at the bottom of the page, http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...g/bushing.html , he rotated the bushing so it won't have a preload sitting at the lowered height.

Chiikiita_EG

good write up. looking forward to buy the tool since my RTA in my 94 coupe are completely done and my car keeps kicking from one side to another & im afraid to push it!! thanks!!!

civexspeedy

Really don't understand why people would go through the pain and hassle of trying to hammer the OE bushing out(and if using a new OE, Hardrace, etc bushing, hammering it in). I bought the specialty tool for this job and I've replaced probably a bunch of trailing arm bushings. It has ALWAYS been very easy and painless with the tool. Not to mention probably WAY faster. The other thing about hammering the new one in, I don't understand how you'll get the bushing properly aligned. Once that thing is in there, I don't see how you'll move it around with out somehow miss-aligning some part of it.

If you're doing this job, buy the tool. It's like $150(?) new, then when you're done with it, you could easily sell it. The tool will last a long time. Like I said, I've done a handful of cars with mine and it's still fine. I've borrowed the tool out to numerous friends so I know selling it would not be a problem if I wanted to get some of my money back.. I just like having the tool.

FearSC549

It took me two wacks to get it off. I sprayed the edges with penetrating oil the night before. I saved $145

civexspeedy

Sounds like you're the lucky few. I've seen more people try that method and fail than I'm sure that are successful with it. And getting it out should be easier(even though for the majority its still difficult), it's getting it back in and clocked/aligned right with a hammer that would be more of a hassle.

98civdx

I tried to get the tool, no one had it, or could get it. The one place that could get it, it was special order and $250.

If the TA's are out of the car, banging them out is a piece of cake, in the car, not so much. In my experience anyways.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

I used a press for removal. At $150 a H-F 20 ton press costs the same as that tool! The major advantage of the tool, though, is that you can do it with the RTA still on the car.

As far as installation, hammering is super easy. Again, provided that the RTA is on the bench. If you want to keep it on the car, however, there's only one way to go ^^

FearSC549

So do I have to rotate the bushings before I press them in? I know how people use a sharpie and mark the arrows so it would be aligned, but that's at stock height. If my Civic is lowered, do I have to rotate(so it's off from the sharpie mark) the trailing arm bushing when I hammer it back in(so there's no preload)?

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

You install it, put the car on the ground at the desired ride height, mark the bushing, remove it, and reinstall it. You can make a "best guess" but it's still a good idea to check and reinstall.

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Just mark the arm, with the car at ride height, before taking the old one out.

FearSC549

Problem is, I already removed them before I thought of marking

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

Then option one is the only way.