DIYr trailing arm bushing install: Tool, press not needed!!
07-12-2008, 10:59 PM
#26
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Re: (dallison)
Honestly, I would not rely on this method. Having tried it and had my car on jackstands for 4 days... I'm sure it depends on the replacements parts you use though. I used ones from Rock Auto, and they were nearly 2mm larger than the OEM's once hammered out. Not to mention the extra work involved in removing the arm. I ended up renting the tool from a guy over on hondacivicforum.com (his name is danomatic93) for 40 bucks + shipping after the refunded deposit. Worth every penny, as it was less than half the time to do a single side.
08-01-2008, 04:54 PM
#27
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Re: (bakertime)
<FONT SIZE="5">use the "extractor" tool carefully!!!!! this is a fair warning.</FONT>
my story:
i rented the tool from a dude on another forum. great, it gets here and i tear into the car.
first problem: the front alignment arm bolts were rusted to **** and would NOT come out. so, i left them on. you don't need to remove them.
next i removed the RTA bushing bolts and the LCA bolts to the unibody
turned the arm out and wedge it down enough to get the tool on using blocks of wood
install the tool and start cranking.... and cranking and cranking
next thing i know the bushing is ~1/2 way out but it looks like it's being pushed out sideways
so i stop and pull it all apart and inspect. the tool bent the trailing arm to **** instead of pushing the bushing out. go out and look at the back side of your trailing arm and you will see why. [freak] THAT ****. the "cup" that holds the bushing in place is only spot welded to the top lip of the RTA and doesn't connect to the bottom lip.
it's a poorly designed tool at best as obviously honda did not intend for the RTAs to handle that type of stress. so i beat the RTA back into shape with a BFH as best as i could.
i then cut the shaft out of the old bushing and use a sawzall to cut through the outer ring of the bushing. i pop the bushing out and then use the OP method with a BFH to hit the new bushing in. perfect.
my buddy also has used the BFH method from the back side of the RTA with great success.
my story:
i rented the tool from a dude on another forum. great, it gets here and i tear into the car.
first problem: the front alignment arm bolts were rusted to **** and would NOT come out. so, i left them on. you don't need to remove them.
next i removed the RTA bushing bolts and the LCA bolts to the unibody
turned the arm out and wedge it down enough to get the tool on using blocks of wood
install the tool and start cranking.... and cranking and cranking
next thing i know the bushing is ~1/2 way out but it looks like it's being pushed out sideways
so i stop and pull it all apart and inspect. the tool bent the trailing arm to **** instead of pushing the bushing out. go out and look at the back side of your trailing arm and you will see why. [freak] THAT ****. the "cup" that holds the bushing in place is only spot welded to the top lip of the RTA and doesn't connect to the bottom lip.
it's a poorly designed tool at best as obviously honda did not intend for the RTAs to handle that type of stress. so i beat the RTA back into shape with a BFH as best as i could.
i then cut the shaft out of the old bushing and use a sawzall to cut through the outer ring of the bushing. i pop the bushing out and then use the OP method with a BFH to hit the new bushing in. perfect.
my buddy also has used the BFH method from the back side of the RTA with great success.
08-02-2008, 12:33 PM
#28
Solbros Owns Me
Re: (-DC2-)
I don't even know how many Trailers I've replaced...maybe at LEAST 50 sets!
I NEVER use a press, NEVER use the extractor, and NEVER remove the trailing arm from the vehicle.
Removing the toe adjuster bolt, the 2 bushing bolts, and the brake line/ebrake line fasteners, you can hold the arm down far enough using a pole jack and a tie down strap to be able to hit the bushing with the special tool(either the Honda bushing driver, or the driver from the extractor set).
Spray silicon spray around the bushing BEFORE removal. After letting it sit for a minute, tap the outside races at 3 and 9 until it breaks free- then drive it out with the special tool!
Going in is the exact opposite.
Be VERY careful when not using a bushing driver- you can rip/tear the bushing, and you can oblong the hole and this will make the bushing float inside the arm, rather than be properly seated. Make sure you clean the mating surfaces with emery cloth as well
a vid- using my homemade special tool on a CR-V
http://s263.photobucket.com/al...8.flv
I NEVER use a press, NEVER use the extractor, and NEVER remove the trailing arm from the vehicle.
Removing the toe adjuster bolt, the 2 bushing bolts, and the brake line/ebrake line fasteners, you can hold the arm down far enough using a pole jack and a tie down strap to be able to hit the bushing with the special tool(either the Honda bushing driver, or the driver from the extractor set).
Spray silicon spray around the bushing BEFORE removal. After letting it sit for a minute, tap the outside races at 3 and 9 until it breaks free- then drive it out with the special tool!
Going in is the exact opposite.
Be VERY careful when not using a bushing driver- you can rip/tear the bushing, and you can oblong the hole and this will make the bushing float inside the arm, rather than be properly seated. Make sure you clean the mating surfaces with emery cloth as well
a vid- using my homemade special tool on a CR-V
http://s263.photobucket.com/al...8.flv
08-05-2008, 07:00 AM
#29
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Could I use something like a 32mm or 36mm impact socket to help apply even pressure around the RTA bushing, and hit the socket with a hammer? That's what I usually do when installing things like oil seals.
08-05-2008, 07:19 AM
#30
Solbros Owns Me
Re: (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could I use something like a 32mm or 36mm impact socket to help apply even pressure around the RTA bushing, and hit the socket with a hammer? That's what I usually do when installing things like oil seals.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you had a driver big enough, yes- which is what the bushing driver is for.
You want to go in as straight as possible, to avoid from distorting the bushing seat.
if you had a driver big enough, yes- which is what the bushing driver is for.
You want to go in as straight as possible, to avoid from distorting the bushing seat.
04-08-2016, 09:38 AM
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Re: DIYr trailing arm bushing install: Tool, press not needed!!
Ok I just got done with my rear trailing arm bushing swap. I was unsure if i needed this tool everyone seems to use, but i have a press so I decided not to get the tool.
I took the trailing arms off the car. (only took about 15 min each side).
I used the press to push the old bushing out (it seemed like it was under alot of pressure when I pushed it out from the top)(the rotor facing up) and to push the new back into place.
I didnt get it clocked just right so I grabbed a hammer and hit it from behind (rotor
facing down)thinking it wouldnt budge it because the press seemed to struggle to get it out. and low and behold a few hits and it pushed right back out. I reclocked it and pounded it back in from the top (about 10 or so hits) and I was done.
Thinking that it couldnt be this easy without the tool or the press I tryed the other trailing arm (keep in mind these trailing arms were taken from a crx with 150,000+ of salty pa winters) to see if i could do the same. It only took 3 hard hits with an average sized hammer to pop the old torn bushing out from the backside.
I flipped it over and it took about 10 hits (rh side, lh side, rh, lh...) and it was in place.
Has anyone else ever tried this technique?? I was shocked when it was this easy because every how to ive ever heard said you needed to have a press or the "tool"
Also note when taking the arm off the car leave the break line's on the caliper and remove the caliper from the arm. This will save the brakes from needing bled.
I took the trailing arms off the car. (only took about 15 min each side).
I used the press to push the old bushing out (it seemed like it was under alot of pressure when I pushed it out from the top)(the rotor facing up) and to push the new back into place.
I didnt get it clocked just right so I grabbed a hammer and hit it from behind (rotor
facing down)thinking it wouldnt budge it because the press seemed to struggle to get it out. and low and behold a few hits and it pushed right back out. I reclocked it and pounded it back in from the top (about 10 or so hits) and I was done.
Thinking that it couldnt be this easy without the tool or the press I tryed the other trailing arm (keep in mind these trailing arms were taken from a crx with 150,000+ of salty pa winters) to see if i could do the same. It only took 3 hard hits with an average sized hammer to pop the old torn bushing out from the backside.
I flipped it over and it took about 10 hits (rh side, lh side, rh, lh...) and it was in place.
Has anyone else ever tried this technique?? I was shocked when it was this easy because every how to ive ever heard said you needed to have a press or the "tool"
Also note when taking the arm off the car leave the break line's on the caliper and remove the caliper from the arm. This will save the brakes from needing bled.
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