EFbomb

First off my info:
93 Civic HB 3dr CX
Completely stock form about 6 months ago.
Acquired and installed rear disc setup from a 99 Integra GS.
Bought brand new e-brake cables, alum RR LCA's new bolts everywhere.
Acquired a 4040 proportioning valve, and installed.

Bought new Goodridge SS custom Kit, for Civic DX front disc, w/ RR Integra Disc. (i can get the part number later)

Problem:
Installed rear disc and everything over a about a 2 week period ( other projects going on).

Bled everything, using proper procedure(rr, lf, lr, rf) from the Honda service manual, checked for leaks. fixed one leak, and one loose bleeder. re-bled system again ... still had a soft pedal, re-bled another time by hand.

Went to harbor-freight and bought a vacuum suction bleeding tool. vacuum bled the entire system, going thru an entire liter bottle of fluid .... still has a soft pedal ....

If i pump the pedal 3 or 4 times quickly it will build up pressure and hold it. If i simply just push on the pedal once, it has some pressure but then fades to the floor slowly.

I've ruled out leaks (mc, ss lines, bleeders) and the obvious problem is air in the system somewhere.

What is the proper procedure for installing a brake proportioning valve, and how to you bench bleed ?

what about bench bleeding calipers before installing them?

EFbomb

30 views and nobody has any advice ?

x1xofakindx

I ain't no real expert but I have been a little tied up in brake systems lately since my front brakes locked up...but did ya try bleeding the master cylinder...I had a civic where it wouldn't bleed right and that was the issue...good luck!

jtmartin96civic

As if the beginning of your post didnt jump out and scream that in everyones face.

EFbomb

Fixed it ... went thru the system and re-bled the lines again. I could hear air in the DS front cailper area while bleeding. Just kept bleeding like crazy on that corner and eventually it bled all the air out and everything works great.

thanks for the advice tho. Still curious how to bench bleed.

x1xofakindx

Glad ya figured it out, I went by the Haynes manual to bench bleed the master cylinder, what I did was threaded two old brake lines I cut up, onto the master cylinder where the lines go to supply the prop valve and connected some small vacuum hose onto the end of the metal lines and ran them both directly into the master cylinder. I first filled up the master cylinder with brake fluid and the lines were submerged in the brake fluid and you use a long phillips screw driver and push inside the master cylinder on the piston. You keep doing it until there is no air coming out and then you just remove the lines, all the while keeping the lines submerged in the brake fluid. Hope I explained it well enough for ya.

If ya ain't got nothing nice to say than don't say nothing at all, I am here to try to give advice even if I ain't an expert but I did have some experience so why don't you try helping with some advice instead of trying to make people feel stupid. I am a veteran who served in Iraq I have done something constructive with my life why don't you think of something better to say next time.