Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted
09-07-2008, 11:10 AM
#1
Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted
There is a lot of conjecture, and even more marketing influence saying that cross-drilled and slotted rotors are an "upgrade". This is not necessarily true, and in most cases, is just more expensive and can actually HURT braking performance. This is a thread to debate which rotors are best, cross drilled, slotted, both, or blank. I believe blank rotors are better, and here is why.
The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was used as a bonding agent, but due to the health concern of asbestos, we don't use it anymore..
The other reason is so called heat dissapation. I don't have my physics and thermo books with me, but the theory is that the holes in the rotor are suppose to allow the brake pad to cool. So...air gets into the rotor from the inside of the vents. If you have a back rotor which is solid, air gets into these holes how? If your stopped, you are leaving air inside these holes sandwiched between the pads, thus creating air with a rising temperature. Its increasing in pressure from the heat, which I guess you "could" call a gas that would affect braking. So the cross drilled rotors do not remove any gasses formed by brake pads (because there are none created anymore) but could possibly inhibit the creation of "hot spots".
Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big *** chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.
Safety!!
Cross drilled rotors can crack! I have seen them!!
Even racing teams will reccomend AGAINST cross drilled rotors:
http://www.livermoreperformanc....html
Companies that sell cross drilled rotors that are redrilled may not be structurally sound. I have actually seen pictures of rear Integra rotors that have had hairline cracks turn into the rotor actually breaking apart!
Do your homework. Even Porsche and Ferrari will admit that the cross drilled rotors they use are for looks. So if you are one of those kids who thinks the little holes look cool, get a name brand drilled rotor like Ferrari does. The REASON Ferrari's 'holed' rotors are alright to use is because they are CAST with the holes in them, so they are not actually drilled into cast iron rotors. Cheap drilled rotors are not safe, and even the good ones are not necessary. Why do Ferrari do it? People THINK they want it, and it sells. If you don't believe me, go into the business world. You will learn that pretty soon, you can sell utter **** if people THINK its better.
Information I gathered from http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
says:
"KVR Crossdrilled Rotors
Why should you upgrade to cross drilled rotors?
Simply stated, the function of any vehicles brake system is to stop the vehicle. This is accomplished by absorbing the kinetic energy stored in the moving vehicle, and converting it into heat. The friction caused by the brake pad rubbing on the rotor is the source of this heat. The more quickly and efficiently that heat can be absorbed and dissipated, the more quickly and efficiently the car will stop.
There are several contributing factors to this heat reduction. One of the most common sources of heat is from the gases produced by the bonding agents of the brake pad burning off. Under severe braking, this can actually produce a boundary layer of gas that pushes the pad away from the rotor, which can lead to excessive brake fade. The cross-drilled holes or slots in a rotor provide an escape path for these gasses (de-gassing or out-gassing are common terms), and allow the pad to stay in contact with the rotor. As well as de-gassing, cross drilling or slotting will provide better wet weather braking as water is swept through the holes, or down the slots.
A vented rotor can be viewed as an air fan. When in motion, the vents draw air from the center of the rotor outward. This air flow, over an increased internal surface area, effectively dissipates rotor heat. Cross drilling adds to this air flow, as well as providing additional rotor surface cooling. "
This company is just telling you that the rotors may be cooler, however they fail to mention that the holes really do create a more than substantial decrease in surface area, thus less braking, thus less heat created, thus the less heat CREATED will leave the rotors cooler, the holes barely do anything! Its the less braking lowering the temperature!
Slotted rotors-
Find me a company that uses stock slotted rotors. They remove brake dust, but if you study braking systems, you find that with modern cars, flat blank rotors and semi-ceramic pads, the brake dust causing the rotor to slip on it is almost non-existent. But the brake dust doesnt need all those lines. Notice how most front brake pads (and most back) have that line down the middle to give essentially two bite points. If OEM or racing companies found it to be a benefit, they would do it.
PROOF OF IT ALL:
Find me an F1 car as of now that uses cross drilled or slotted rotors.
They all use full ceramic rotors and ceramic pads. Are they drilled or slotted? No.
If they helped the fastest cars in the world, wouldn't they use them? Its basic calculations that show the lack in surface area does not make up for the possible loss in temperarure. They use brake cooling air ducts insted.
BIG BRAKE KITS:
Some have asked if the big brake kits are worth it. This is sort of a relative question, but the simple answer is no. Regarding the big ones with drilled rotors, if you know that they are cast that way, at least they wont crack. I will still advice against them.
In terms of a big brake kit, I have seen some for Civic DX models. Civics have the small pad, small caliper, and a 9.5" rotor. The big rotors are 12" in diameter, ok so the overall diameter is close to that of an Acura RL (1999). But the sweeping area (the area that the pad can grab) is still the same if they use the same caliper and same pad. If you have the same pad and caliper, you are using the same rotor surface, just farther out, so it will increase braking from stock. However, if you were to change knuckles, etc, and get Acura RL caliper (larger piston than your civic DX piston), RL pads (much bigger and taller), and RL rotors 11.8" but much more surface area is touched, then you have a better brake setup because you have OEM parts, and a better grip on more area of the rotor. The downfall is added weight (since big brake kits are usually 2 piece and lighter) but the benefit is that you have so much more stopping. Ok, so the big brake kit will have less unsprung and rotational mass (so a little better accelleration but less braking), but they tend to run over a grand, and you can use OEM parts to build a better setup for half that.
IN CONCLUSION:
Don't buy slotted or cross drilled rotors, blank are better, and stop better. Physics people, get me my formulas and help me out here.
If you must get rotors with designs on them, get the slotted ones by a good company, and DON'T get blank rotors redrilled with little holes all over them. IF you absolutly must have the rotors with holes cause you like em, get them from a company that casts the rotors like that. I have seen rotors break and this is for your safety!
HOWEVER, there is one sure fire way to get better rotors. Vented rotors, which we all have in the front of our car and cars like the NSX and new RL even have in the back, have straight lines for vents. This increases surface area to dissapate heat. If you go with "curved vane rotors", these will help, as they draw air from the hub area and vent it out the edges of the rotor. These rotors have no downfall, are directional, and will cost more than the non-directional regular vented disc rotors. The vanes are to point away from the rotation of the car, not toward it, as they draw air in to out, not biting into it and pulling it inward. Cooling ducts help by forcing cool air into the hub area to be vented out the curved vanes. Curved vanes usually start being effective at 50-60mph and above.
REMEMBER......
Your car will only stop as fast as your tires will allow. All the braking in the world wont work if your tires are bald and on ice!!
The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was used as a bonding agent, but due to the health concern of asbestos, we don't use it anymore..
The other reason is so called heat dissapation. I don't have my physics and thermo books with me, but the theory is that the holes in the rotor are suppose to allow the brake pad to cool. So...air gets into the rotor from the inside of the vents. If you have a back rotor which is solid, air gets into these holes how? If your stopped, you are leaving air inside these holes sandwiched between the pads, thus creating air with a rising temperature. Its increasing in pressure from the heat, which I guess you "could" call a gas that would affect braking. So the cross drilled rotors do not remove any gasses formed by brake pads (because there are none created anymore) but could possibly inhibit the creation of "hot spots".
Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big *** chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.
Safety!!
Cross drilled rotors can crack! I have seen them!!
Even racing teams will reccomend AGAINST cross drilled rotors:
http://www.livermoreperformanc....html
Companies that sell cross drilled rotors that are redrilled may not be structurally sound. I have actually seen pictures of rear Integra rotors that have had hairline cracks turn into the rotor actually breaking apart!
Do your homework. Even Porsche and Ferrari will admit that the cross drilled rotors they use are for looks. So if you are one of those kids who thinks the little holes look cool, get a name brand drilled rotor like Ferrari does. The REASON Ferrari's 'holed' rotors are alright to use is because they are CAST with the holes in them, so they are not actually drilled into cast iron rotors. Cheap drilled rotors are not safe, and even the good ones are not necessary. Why do Ferrari do it? People THINK they want it, and it sells. If you don't believe me, go into the business world. You will learn that pretty soon, you can sell utter **** if people THINK its better.
Information I gathered from http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
says:
"KVR Crossdrilled Rotors
Why should you upgrade to cross drilled rotors?
Simply stated, the function of any vehicles brake system is to stop the vehicle. This is accomplished by absorbing the kinetic energy stored in the moving vehicle, and converting it into heat. The friction caused by the brake pad rubbing on the rotor is the source of this heat. The more quickly and efficiently that heat can be absorbed and dissipated, the more quickly and efficiently the car will stop.
There are several contributing factors to this heat reduction. One of the most common sources of heat is from the gases produced by the bonding agents of the brake pad burning off. Under severe braking, this can actually produce a boundary layer of gas that pushes the pad away from the rotor, which can lead to excessive brake fade. The cross-drilled holes or slots in a rotor provide an escape path for these gasses (de-gassing or out-gassing are common terms), and allow the pad to stay in contact with the rotor. As well as de-gassing, cross drilling or slotting will provide better wet weather braking as water is swept through the holes, or down the slots.
A vented rotor can be viewed as an air fan. When in motion, the vents draw air from the center of the rotor outward. This air flow, over an increased internal surface area, effectively dissipates rotor heat. Cross drilling adds to this air flow, as well as providing additional rotor surface cooling. "
This company is just telling you that the rotors may be cooler, however they fail to mention that the holes really do create a more than substantial decrease in surface area, thus less braking, thus less heat created, thus the less heat CREATED will leave the rotors cooler, the holes barely do anything! Its the less braking lowering the temperature!
Slotted rotors-
Find me a company that uses stock slotted rotors. They remove brake dust, but if you study braking systems, you find that with modern cars, flat blank rotors and semi-ceramic pads, the brake dust causing the rotor to slip on it is almost non-existent. But the brake dust doesnt need all those lines. Notice how most front brake pads (and most back) have that line down the middle to give essentially two bite points. If OEM or racing companies found it to be a benefit, they would do it.
PROOF OF IT ALL:
Find me an F1 car as of now that uses cross drilled or slotted rotors.
They all use full ceramic rotors and ceramic pads. Are they drilled or slotted? No.
If they helped the fastest cars in the world, wouldn't they use them? Its basic calculations that show the lack in surface area does not make up for the possible loss in temperarure. They use brake cooling air ducts insted.
BIG BRAKE KITS:
Some have asked if the big brake kits are worth it. This is sort of a relative question, but the simple answer is no. Regarding the big ones with drilled rotors, if you know that they are cast that way, at least they wont crack. I will still advice against them.
In terms of a big brake kit, I have seen some for Civic DX models. Civics have the small pad, small caliper, and a 9.5" rotor. The big rotors are 12" in diameter, ok so the overall diameter is close to that of an Acura RL (1999). But the sweeping area (the area that the pad can grab) is still the same if they use the same caliper and same pad. If you have the same pad and caliper, you are using the same rotor surface, just farther out, so it will increase braking from stock. However, if you were to change knuckles, etc, and get Acura RL caliper (larger piston than your civic DX piston), RL pads (much bigger and taller), and RL rotors 11.8" but much more surface area is touched, then you have a better brake setup because you have OEM parts, and a better grip on more area of the rotor. The downfall is added weight (since big brake kits are usually 2 piece and lighter) but the benefit is that you have so much more stopping. Ok, so the big brake kit will have less unsprung and rotational mass (so a little better accelleration but less braking), but they tend to run over a grand, and you can use OEM parts to build a better setup for half that.
IN CONCLUSION:
Don't buy slotted or cross drilled rotors, blank are better, and stop better. Physics people, get me my formulas and help me out here.
If you must get rotors with designs on them, get the slotted ones by a good company, and DON'T get blank rotors redrilled with little holes all over them. IF you absolutly must have the rotors with holes cause you like em, get them from a company that casts the rotors like that. I have seen rotors break and this is for your safety!
HOWEVER, there is one sure fire way to get better rotors. Vented rotors, which we all have in the front of our car and cars like the NSX and new RL even have in the back, have straight lines for vents. This increases surface area to dissapate heat. If you go with "curved vane rotors", these will help, as they draw air from the hub area and vent it out the edges of the rotor. These rotors have no downfall, are directional, and will cost more than the non-directional regular vented disc rotors. The vanes are to point away from the rotation of the car, not toward it, as they draw air in to out, not biting into it and pulling it inward. Cooling ducts help by forcing cool air into the hub area to be vented out the curved vanes. Curved vanes usually start being effective at 50-60mph and above.
REMEMBER......
Your car will only stop as fast as your tires will allow. All the braking in the world wont work if your tires are bald and on ice!!
09-07-2008, 01:52 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (BrakeExpert)
isn't it kind of an agreed upon conclusion that blanks are best when it comes to our stock brakes? also i really don't know how you were able to get porsche or ferrari to comment on their brakes or why they use drilled rotors. lastly, GT cars do use holes in the rotors on carbon rotors. there must be some benefit on the carbon rotors, i just have no clue what the technicals would be.
09-08-2008, 09:05 AM
#3
H-T Order of Merit
Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (idrivesideways)
I've used cross-drilled, slotted, and blank-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars. I've kept track of how many total miles and how many track miles I've gotten to each set. All have eventually cracked; I've replaced front rotors 19 times in about 20,000 actual track miles. In my experience, there is NO significant difference in their lifespan between the various types of rotors. Yes, cracks form in cross-drilled rotors around the holes, but no quicker than they form in other types of rotors. So there is no disadvantage to cross-drilled or slotted; however, there is no advantage, either.
The one type of rotors that have lasted longer for me (50+ percent more track miles) is two-piece rotors, which have flexible attachment hardware so that the outer "ring" of the rotor can expand with the heat, away from the inner "hat".
The one type of rotors that have lasted longer for me (50+ percent more track miles) is two-piece rotors, which have flexible attachment hardware so that the outer "ring" of the rotor can expand with the heat, away from the inner "hat".
09-12-2008, 02:31 PM
#4
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (nsxtasy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've used cross-drilled, slotted, and blank-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars. I've kept track of how many total miles and how many track miles I've gotten to each set. All have eventually cracked; I've replaced front rotors 19 times in about 20,000 actual track miles. In my experience, there is NO significant difference in their lifespan between the various types of rotors. Yes, cracks form in cross-drilled rotors around the holes, but no quicker than they form in other types of rotors. So there is no disadvantage to cross-drilled or slotted; however, there is no advantage, either.
The one type of rotors that have lasted longer for me (50+ percent more track miles) is two-piece rotors, which have flexible attachment hardware so that the outer "ring" of the rotor can expand with the heat, away from the inner "hat".
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nothing can speak better than hands on experience
The one type of rotors that have lasted longer for me (50+ percent more track miles) is two-piece rotors, which have flexible attachment hardware so that the outer "ring" of the rotor can expand with the heat, away from the inner "hat".
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nothing can speak better than hands on experience
09-25-2008, 09:25 PM
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (nsxtasy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've used cross-drilled, slotted, and blank-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars. I've kept track of how many total miles and how many track miles I've gotten to each set. All have eventually cracked; I've replaced front rotors 19 times in about 20,000 actual track miles. In my experience, there is NO significant difference in their lifespan between the various types of rotors. Yes, cracks form in cross-drilled rotors around the holes, but no quicker than they form in other types of rotors. So there is no disadvantage to cross-drilled or slotted; however, there is no advantage, either.
The one type of rotors that have lasted longer for me (50+ percent more track miles) is two-piece rotors, which have flexible attachment hardware so that the outer "ring" of the rotor can expand with the heat, away from the inner "hat".
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you aren't taking into account pad life and dust production.
The one type of rotors that have lasted longer for me (50+ percent more track miles) is two-piece rotors, which have flexible attachment hardware so that the outer "ring" of the rotor can expand with the heat, away from the inner "hat".
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you aren't taking into account pad life and dust production.
09-26-2008, 09:51 AM
#6
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (white_r!ce)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white_r!ce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you aren't taking into account pad life and dust production.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2, i've never had any issues with drilled slotted rotors on track days either. pad life is another story. slotted rotors oddly seem to tear up pads faster. i have no idea if it's just in my head or what but i swear it's the case.
you aren't taking into account pad life and dust production.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x2, i've never had any issues with drilled slotted rotors on track days either. pad life is another story. slotted rotors oddly seem to tear up pads faster. i have no idea if it's just in my head or what but i swear it's the case.
09-26-2008, 10:11 AM
#7
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (idrivesideways)
I've kept track of pad life, too, and there has been zero difference in brake pad life (measured in overall miles and track miles) between the different types of rotors.
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09-28-2008, 10:56 AM
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (nsxtasy)
so you're saying pad A on plain rotor will last as long as pad A on slottled rotor and pad A on CD rotor?
If so, i'd question your "keeping track of stuff"
09-30-2008, 10:27 AM
#9
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (white_r!ce)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white_r!ce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you're saying pad A on plain rotor will last as long as pad A on slottled rotor and pad A on CD rotor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, absolutely.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white_r!ce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If so, i'd question your "keeping track of stuff"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Snide remarks are no substitute for actual experience. And my actual experience is that there is no significant difference in brake pad longevity between those types of rotors. Same car, same pads, same tracks, same driver, etc.
Yes, absolutely.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white_r!ce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If so, i'd question your "keeping track of stuff"</TD></TR></TABLE>
Snide remarks are no substitute for actual experience. And my actual experience is that there is no significant difference in brake pad longevity between those types of rotors. Same car, same pads, same tracks, same driver, etc.
09-30-2008, 11:49 AM
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (nsxtasy)
i still don't buy it.
an example. I had CD rotors where the holes don't cover the outer and inner face of the rotor.
pic for ref.
pads and rotors had an odd shape to them. the part on the rotor where there were no holes was worn more.
the part where there were holes on the rotor was not worn as much.
this points to the argument that "texture" on the rotor face causes more pad wear.
an example. I had CD rotors where the holes don't cover the outer and inner face of the rotor.
pic for ref.
pads and rotors had an odd shape to them. the part on the rotor where there were no holes was worn more.
the part where there were holes on the rotor was not worn as much.
this points to the argument that "texture" on the rotor face causes more pad wear.
10-01-2008, 09:02 AM
#11
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (white_r!ce)
You don't measure pad wear by the pattern on the rotors. You measure it by how long (how many miles) the pads last. And the pads lasted about the same number of track miles. Period.
Modified by nsxtasy at 2:05 PM 10/1/2008
Modified by nsxtasy at 2:05 PM 10/1/2008
10-14-2008, 09:59 PM
#12
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (nsxtasy)
Has anyone tested the difference between cyrogenically treated "frozen" blank/slotted rotors vs. non-treated rotors? Both in terms of pad life and rotor life?
By the way,
Frozen Rotors blanks are cyrogenically treated Brembo blanks.
Frozen Rotors slotted rotors are cyrogenically treated PowerSlot rotors.
By the way,
Frozen Rotors blanks are cyrogenically treated Brembo blanks.
Frozen Rotors slotted rotors are cyrogenically treated PowerSlot rotors.
10-15-2008, 03:24 PM
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (BrakeExpert)
Just from personal experience i feel that blank rotors or slotted rotors are better then drilled rotors any day. I have had both front drilled rotors crack on me. im currently using slotted rotors with hawk pads and havnt had any problems yet im not sure if its a material problem ? maybe they just dont take the heat when abusing your brakes but AMG mercedes use huge drilled rotors and have no problem , im guessing the high quality material is the key.
im not sure if its a material problem ? maybe they just dont take the heat when abusing your brakes but AMG mercedes use huge drilled rotors and have no problem , im guessing the high quality material is the key.
10-16-2008, 11:07 PM
#14
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (shiftat9kay)
they cast the holes, they aren't drilled. corvette and porsche do the same thing. it's not the same as a drilled rotor.
10-18-2008, 01:14 PM
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (idrivesideways)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by idrivesideways »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they cast the holes, they aren't drilled. corvette and porsche do the same thing. it's not the same as a drilled rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
interesting learn something new every day, i can see where that'd be stronger
interesting learn something new every day, i can see where that'd be stronger
10-18-2008, 04:21 PM
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (shiftat9kay)
F1 cars may not use slotted rotors, but I believe GT cars do(which are more similar to our cars than F1 cars). I've seen slotted rotors on the BTCC Civics and plenty on the Super GT cars. Maybe they don't use the line in the pad that you were describing?
10-22-2008, 05:40 PM
#17
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (BrakeExpert)
One problem that I experienced with slotted rotor for street use is that the slots serve as corrosion nucleation points. The slots also make measuring rotor runout more difficult. Cross drilling would have the same effects.
10-30-2008, 04:18 PM
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Re: Blank rotors are better than cross drilled and/or slotted (Dogginator)
^I am with you on that one, runout is difficult, not to mention cutting them or resurfacing is impossible. Unless someone knows something I don't 
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