FS: NC 1996 Honda Civic DX, Turbo B16
02-28-2010, 11:04 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
FS: NC 1996 Honda Civic DX, Turbo B16
Name: Roger
Location : Raleigh, NC
Means of Contact: PM
Vehicle Year/Make/Model: 1996 Honda Civic DX Coupe
Miles: 254000
Price: $4999 OBO
Title: Clear
- Engine: New B16 with LS pistons
- Interior: Good
- Exterior: Fair
- Stereo & Nav: Stock Stereo
- Suspension: Stock, in good condition
This is a coupe that I originally built for a daily driver, but something came up and I need the money, so I'm selling it. It's got about 1000 miles on it since putting it together and is in excellent running condition, no smoking, leaking, or anything else bad.
I bought it from a guy who commuted to Richmond from Raleigh every day, so it's got a lot of miles, but they are all highway miles and it's in good shape.
The engine is a rebuilt B16 that was bored .5mm over and honed by RLZ machine shop, with new LS pistons, rings and bearings, water pump, oil pump, etc. I did the assembly. It's using stock B16 rods. Rev limit is set at 8000 RPM. The head is a stock B16 head with aftermarket springs (I think they are Ferreas, but don't remember; I bought them from RLZ years ago). I had HRT machine shop check it out, do a valve job on it, resurface it, and replace the valve stem seals. It's got a set of GSR cams in it; these are as large as I would go without machining the LS piston valve reliefs. I used Golden Eagle studs on the head with an OEM head gasket. I used a Greddy timing belt on it; it's blue instead of black and adds at least 100 HP.
The transmission is from an LS, freshly rebuilt by TC for this car. It's got a new Stage 5 Comp Clutch.
Tuning is with an AEM F/IC, using RC 550 low-impedance injectors with a Honda resistor box. J. Mills at DG Performance tuned it on their dyno. Because it uses the stock OBD2 DX ECU, it passes a NC inspection legally.
I bought a Boomslang plug-n-play adapter harness for the F/IC, so the stock wiring harness is intact. I extended the rear O2 sensor plugs and the 3-wire IACV plug because I had to relocate them. I ran a separate wire for the VTEC solenoid.
The exhaust is a custom 2.5" unit built for this car by DG Performance. It's got a nice tone, deep but not loud. I wanted this car to be for everyday driving, picking up the kids from school, etc.
The suspension, brakes, and tires are stock, including a set of sweet 13" steelies with hubcaps that I'm not charging anything extra for. I was considering modifying this, but the stock stuff rides fine and is very comfortable, so I was just going to leave it. Stock EK's actually handle pretty well if you know how to drive. I also like that it's a complete sleeper; I even blacked out the intercooler and charge piping in front to make it less noticeable.
The tires are brand new, and it was just aligned by Cheeto at Phantasm.
The turbo kit consists of:
Custom Turbo - New Garrett CHRA, Turbonetics T3 hot side, generic Chinese T4 .50 A/R cold side. I'm not sure what the wheel size is, but the compressor side is medium-large and the turbine side is medium. Yeah, that's imprecise, but I don't feel like pulling it off of there and measuring it. I'ts probably a bit large for the motor, but that's what I wanted. It spools smoothly and I can keep it out of boost if I keep the RPM's low and I want to save gas.
eBay Intercooler
Mandrel bent 2.5" aluminum charge piping, 4-ply reinforced silicone couplers with t-bolt clamps
TIAL knockoff waste gate with a 10 PSI spring. It's a fake, but these things have been proven to work well.
HKS knockoff BOV. Also a fake, but it works and sounds just like my real one.
Blox cast turbo manifold, custom 2.5" downpipe and 1" dump tube fabricated by DG Performance
Greddy sandwich plate adapter for -3AN turbo oil feed
AEM Dry Flow filter on the turbo inlet.
There's probably more stuff, but that's most of it.
The Good:
New drivetrain, new turbo, new radiator, new Honda plug wires, a bunch of other stuff; I wanted this car to work well and be low-maintenance for years.
Professionally dyno tuned with a piggyback, so it runs right and can still pass an OBD2 inspection. I'm running 10 PSI on WG for 260 WHP, which should hold up for long time on this motor.
Not riced out or dogged out, I wanted a stock-looking car and I just got this car put together.
You can keep all of the change in the coin tray under the e-brake if you buy this car
The Bad:
The blox manifold was not AC compatible, so I removed the AC compressor, condenser, and lines in front. I have all of the parts, which I have bagged and will include with the car. It was working when I removed it, so you should just need to get the system evacuated and recharged if you install it back in the car. I planned to eventually get a LoveFab MiniMe A/C manifold, or maybe an Inline Pro stainless cast manifold, something nice that's AC compatible, and replacing it when the weather warms up.
The car has manual windows and locks. The driver's side window was broken, so I replaced the regulator assembly with a new unit and now it works like new again, but you still have to turn a little crank to raise/lower the windows.
The little handle broke off of the hood release lever, so just the little **** sticks out. I can still pull it to open the hood, but I have big strong man-fingers. If you have dainty little girl-fingers, then you may have to use a pair of pliers to pull the hood release ****. I will include a free set of Craftsman pliers that fit perfectly in the recess next to the driver's seat for any purchaser with dainty little girl-fingers.
The change in the tray under the e-brake is all pennies.
The Ugly:
At some point, the former owner was in a minor collision in a parking lot. There are a couple of cracks on the front bumper cover and a dent in the leading edge of the hood from it, but nothing major is damaged. I cleaned up and painted the dent in the hood so it wouldn't rust. If you want the car to be completely clean and straight, then you'll need to replace the hood and the front bumper cover. The damage is pictured below.
The clear coat is starting to come off of the paint in two spots, above the driver side rear side glass and on the back bumper. Pictures of the spots are below.
That's about it; please enjoy the pictures, and if you are interested in the car and have any questions, then please PM me or post them up:
Location : Raleigh, NC
Means of Contact: PM
Vehicle Year/Make/Model: 1996 Honda Civic DX Coupe
Miles: 254000
Price: $4999 OBO
Title: Clear
- Engine: New B16 with LS pistons
- Interior: Good
- Exterior: Fair
- Stereo & Nav: Stock Stereo
- Suspension: Stock, in good condition
This is a coupe that I originally built for a daily driver, but something came up and I need the money, so I'm selling it. It's got about 1000 miles on it since putting it together and is in excellent running condition, no smoking, leaking, or anything else bad.
I bought it from a guy who commuted to Richmond from Raleigh every day, so it's got a lot of miles, but they are all highway miles and it's in good shape.
The engine is a rebuilt B16 that was bored .5mm over and honed by RLZ machine shop, with new LS pistons, rings and bearings, water pump, oil pump, etc. I did the assembly. It's using stock B16 rods. Rev limit is set at 8000 RPM. The head is a stock B16 head with aftermarket springs (I think they are Ferreas, but don't remember; I bought them from RLZ years ago). I had HRT machine shop check it out, do a valve job on it, resurface it, and replace the valve stem seals. It's got a set of GSR cams in it; these are as large as I would go without machining the LS piston valve reliefs. I used Golden Eagle studs on the head with an OEM head gasket. I used a Greddy timing belt on it; it's blue instead of black and adds at least 100 HP.
The transmission is from an LS, freshly rebuilt by TC for this car. It's got a new Stage 5 Comp Clutch.
Tuning is with an AEM F/IC, using RC 550 low-impedance injectors with a Honda resistor box. J. Mills at DG Performance tuned it on their dyno. Because it uses the stock OBD2 DX ECU, it passes a NC inspection legally.
I bought a Boomslang plug-n-play adapter harness for the F/IC, so the stock wiring harness is intact. I extended the rear O2 sensor plugs and the 3-wire IACV plug because I had to relocate them. I ran a separate wire for the VTEC solenoid.
The exhaust is a custom 2.5" unit built for this car by DG Performance. It's got a nice tone, deep but not loud. I wanted this car to be for everyday driving, picking up the kids from school, etc.
The suspension, brakes, and tires are stock, including a set of sweet 13" steelies with hubcaps that I'm not charging anything extra for. I was considering modifying this, but the stock stuff rides fine and is very comfortable, so I was just going to leave it. Stock EK's actually handle pretty well if you know how to drive. I also like that it's a complete sleeper; I even blacked out the intercooler and charge piping in front to make it less noticeable.
The tires are brand new, and it was just aligned by Cheeto at Phantasm.
The turbo kit consists of:
Custom Turbo - New Garrett CHRA, Turbonetics T3 hot side, generic Chinese T4 .50 A/R cold side. I'm not sure what the wheel size is, but the compressor side is medium-large and the turbine side is medium. Yeah, that's imprecise, but I don't feel like pulling it off of there and measuring it. I'ts probably a bit large for the motor, but that's what I wanted. It spools smoothly and I can keep it out of boost if I keep the RPM's low and I want to save gas.
eBay Intercooler
Mandrel bent 2.5" aluminum charge piping, 4-ply reinforced silicone couplers with t-bolt clamps
TIAL knockoff waste gate with a 10 PSI spring. It's a fake, but these things have been proven to work well.
HKS knockoff BOV. Also a fake, but it works and sounds just like my real one.
Blox cast turbo manifold, custom 2.5" downpipe and 1" dump tube fabricated by DG Performance
Greddy sandwich plate adapter for -3AN turbo oil feed
AEM Dry Flow filter on the turbo inlet.
There's probably more stuff, but that's most of it.
The Good:
New drivetrain, new turbo, new radiator, new Honda plug wires, a bunch of other stuff; I wanted this car to work well and be low-maintenance for years.
Professionally dyno tuned with a piggyback, so it runs right and can still pass an OBD2 inspection. I'm running 10 PSI on WG for 260 WHP, which should hold up for long time on this motor.
Not riced out or dogged out, I wanted a stock-looking car and I just got this car put together.
You can keep all of the change in the coin tray under the e-brake if you buy this car
The Bad:
The blox manifold was not AC compatible, so I removed the AC compressor, condenser, and lines in front. I have all of the parts, which I have bagged and will include with the car. It was working when I removed it, so you should just need to get the system evacuated and recharged if you install it back in the car. I planned to eventually get a LoveFab MiniMe A/C manifold, or maybe an Inline Pro stainless cast manifold, something nice that's AC compatible, and replacing it when the weather warms up.
The car has manual windows and locks. The driver's side window was broken, so I replaced the regulator assembly with a new unit and now it works like new again, but you still have to turn a little crank to raise/lower the windows.
The little handle broke off of the hood release lever, so just the little **** sticks out. I can still pull it to open the hood, but I have big strong man-fingers. If you have dainty little girl-fingers, then you may have to use a pair of pliers to pull the hood release ****. I will include a free set of Craftsman pliers that fit perfectly in the recess next to the driver's seat for any purchaser with dainty little girl-fingers.
The change in the tray under the e-brake is all pennies.
The Ugly:
At some point, the former owner was in a minor collision in a parking lot. There are a couple of cracks on the front bumper cover and a dent in the leading edge of the hood from it, but nothing major is damaged. I cleaned up and painted the dent in the hood so it wouldn't rust. If you want the car to be completely clean and straight, then you'll need to replace the hood and the front bumper cover. The damage is pictured below.
The clear coat is starting to come off of the paint in two spots, above the driver side rear side glass and on the back bumper. Pictures of the spots are below.
That's about it; please enjoy the pictures, and if you are interested in the car and have any questions, then please PM me or post them up:
Last edited by rmcdaniels; 03-06-2010 at 05:05 AM.
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