hxtasy

$3,400 obo

Hello There, this is my 2000 Honda CR-V AWD 5 speed that has 118,000 original miles, was never in an accident, very clean interior. This Project needs a B20 bottom end and it will be ready to go. Has cold AC all original components. Never disconnected the lines.



See A dyno video here:


I had a fuel leak in my rubber fuel line going to the fuel rail and leaned the engine out, the rings on cylinders 1 an 4 are low compression. It runs and drives but blows oil out the catch can so I don't drive it. The fuel line wasn’t put on properly as I was in a hurry moving from MD to FL and just had to get it running. It worked and failed later on. I believe this is why the engine leaned out as the tune was solid.



Here is everything done to it since I have owned it. I did a GSR swap at first but due to a turbo failure that engine got shrapnel in it that blew it.



I am an Electromechanical engineer and have put together a dozen other honda turbo kits and tuned cars as well as built my own data logging systems hardware and software. The car is done as nice as I could for the budget I had.



Body:

2000 Electron Blue Pearl B95P

Curt Class 3 hitch and wiring kit installed

Porterfield Type S pads <5k miles

Brembo Blanks in the front <5k miles

E brake works

Brand new Honda OEM fuel lines installed full length of car (I had a shop do this because I didn’t have a lift, had to drop sub frame, drive shaft, exhaust, fuel tank they are one piece each)

Fresh flush on brakes and clutch

New lower ball joints left and right

New tie rod right side

Stock alloy wheels with good tires, passed PA and MD inspection when I bought it. Spare wheel included.

Rust above rear wheel wells, previous owner patched and spray painted over, it doesn’t look great but it looks way better than a rusty hole. No rust anywhere else on body.

Retrofit Projector Conversion with Retrofit Ballist. These lights are very bright and have a nice DOT cut off, makes the car feel like a newer Audi/bmw.



Interior:

Gray cloth

Seats that fold into camping beds (not sure what this was called but I think it’s an option or only made for 1 year ? )

No Stereo included with the car



Engine:

JDM honda Type R B18C, very low mileage for its age, low compression 1 and 4, 220ish 2 and 3 Cylinder 4: 110 psi

Cylinder 3: 220 psi

Cylinder 2: 210

Cylinder 1: 60

Moroso 5.5 quart wet sump oil pan with new felpro blue gasket.

Victor X Type R intake manifold with thermal gasket and stainless steel extended studs (less than 500 miles on this)



Omni style Cast top mount manifold with custom adapter plate for GT28 flange to keep AC (this adapter plate works but its not the best if it was redone there would be a ton more mid range power).

ARP extended Exhaust manifold Studs



Garret GT2860rs “disco Potato” with brand new CHRA ($1k alone), vibrant aluminum 2” 90 degree elbow tig welded onto compressor housing to reduce overall coupler count and pressure loss.

3” V band flange as well as internal wastegate block off plate MIG welded onto exhaust side.

Vibrant Black Cloth style AN return line with black anodized fittings.

Goodyear stainless steel oil feed with brass T’s to allow factory oil sending unit, with extra length to remote mount off of block. Garret oil restrictor for turbo.



Tial Q Blow off valve with White colored spring

Tial MVR Wastegate

All piping is mostly vibrant with a couple ebay pieces (the vibrant stuff welded a lot better)

Vibrant T clamps and couplers. One section of aluminum had a crack and I tiged over it, doesn’t look great but it works.



Garret intercooler core with spearco stamped end tanks



Injector Clinic 1,000 CC injectors

Omni 4 bar map sensor in honda map sensor form factor

Hondata S300 v.2 in a P28 ECU

Obd2 to Obd1 conversion harness

Mishimoto dual core Radiator

Mishimoto Rad Shroud with 1100 CFM fan, wired through separate relay with a bypass switch to keep always on or with thermostat.

Slim 6” brushless fan for AC condenser also wired with the Mishimoto Fan.

Always used Honda Blue antifreeze.

HKS Mushroom filter with brand new HKS filter foam

Removed the cruise control unit to fit the filter, I was going to mount this inside of the driver side fender however I never got around to it. I will throw in the cruise control unit. Original plugs still there, and it worked great.



Full 3” stainless steel ehaust, everything is V band clamps. Thermal expansion coupler on recirculating wastegate. Follows factor path over the rear LCA. Only ever heard it rub when I had four fat adults in there. Vibrant exhaust and two vibrant resonators makes this thing unbelievably quiet and low tone. I have $1500 in the exhaust alone.

Exhaust wrapped from DP to under oil pan. Turbo blanket insulator for a T3 Turbo (helped a lot with engine bay temps).



Custom polished alunimum battery tie down with M6 Stainless steel all thread rods.

Custom Stainless M6 stud spark plug tie downs.



Transmisison

OEM honda Transaxle and rear end

Competition 4 puck clutch, less than 500 miles

Original axles



Not included with the CRV:

Stereo

AFR Gauge



Tuned by Javie Tunes

Overall I would like to sell this CRV as a complete project I would love to see it running again. The price I have came up with is what I can get parting it out. I am in the middle of a house sale and moving otherwise I would just hold onto this and throw a b20 into it.



Thanks for looking.



-Shane



Seven 1 Seven 6985422

hxtasy

I would also like to add that the transmission in this car alone go for $1k-2k this would be a great parts car to take the trans, take the rear, turbo parts, make an AWD civic and then stick a Jdm b20 and FWD trans in the Crv and either sell it to get the money back or have a really nice SUV daily.